Suggestions before buying this TTZ...

[Zride4Me]

Hey guys,

I'm a long time Z enthusiast and have has several Z32's and 1 Z32TT. It's been many years but I decided to get another. After much searching, I found one quite far away and have to fly there but it looks mint. '93 TT with 50K miles, all original and 2 owners. Everything seems to check out from what I can tell so far away. He did disclose it was in a minor accident about 7 years ago involving the passenger door at which time they repainted the entire car. It wasn't listed in the car fax but he still mentioned it. Had injectors, timing belt and AC changed over about 7-8 years ago.

Anyway, wanted to ask some tips on things to look for besides the obvious (tracking straight, tire wear, body work etc). I found a way on YouTube to short circuit the Consult adapter to get the dash lights to pull codes but doubt the owner will let me do that. I would love to do a compression test but doubt I'll be able to beings I'm only able to go on Sunday. Anyway, any tips would be greatly appreciated!

BTW, is it smart idea to make sure I fire it up after it's been sitting for a while...rather than him meeting me and it's warmed up?

[NolimitZ32]

Definitely want to fire it up cold. cold start issues will only materialize on cold start. Since it's been so long since the T-belt was replaced I would pay special attention to all standard maintenance items since time will do a number on rubber belts and hoses. Jumping the consult plug is a good idea, and if the guy has nothing to hide he may very well allow you to do it. One thing I always check when looking at older cars is the blow-by, this can be done bu opening the oil fill cap with the engine running to see if there is any positive pressure inside the crankcase, a little is ok, too much is not good. I would suggest that you also go through the maintenance and troubleshooting section of the FSM to familiarize yourself with the systems and the general expected behavior. GL

[Zride4Me]

Good stuff, thanks for the suggestions. How would I tell if there is any positive pressure inside the crankcase? Do I need to hook up a gauge or something once the oil fill cap is removed?

Also, sorry for my ignorance but what is the FSM?

[Zride4Me]

NoLimit, which codes are more serious and have higher cost to fix out of the list? If I'm able to do the jump, I'll need to know which ones aren't big deal and which I need to run from.

LED codes for MODE II:

11: crank angle sensor circuit
12*: air flow meter circuit
13*: engine coolant temp. sensor circuit
14*: vehicle speed sensor circuit
21: ignition signal circuit
26*: boost pressure sensor
31*: ECU
32*: EGR function
33*: exhaust gas sensor circuit (left)
34: detonation sensor circuit
35*: exhaust gas temp. sensor circuit
42: fuel temp. sensor circuit
43*: throttle position sensor circuit
45*: injector leak
51*: injector circuit
53*: exhaust gas sensor circuit (right)
54: signal circuit from A/T control to ECU
55: NO malfunctions in the above

[NolimitZ32]

FSM = Factory Service Manual, hosted here on NICO it can be found in the stickies. Generally you can unscrew the oil fill cap all the way and just set it on the hole, if it starts bouncing around that means the rings are worn and you're getting blow-by, I'm sure there are videos on youtube. The problem with codes on any OBD1 system is that they will give you the "calculated likely culprit" just because the code for the CAS comes up doesn't necessarily mean its the CAS at fault this is why I suggest you study the troubleshooting section in the FSM a bit so you are familiar with how the car relays information to you.

[Zride4Me]

Got it, thanks again!

[NolimitZ32]

No worries. If you get down to the nitty gritty and need some more specific answers let us know.

[Zride4Me]

Will do. What's your thoughts on the timing belt, length of time until needs to be changed...not necessarily miles but age? He had the 60K service performed 9/2005 at 21,500 miles. It now has 49,500 miles. Do you think I could go a while or does it need to be done soon? And how difficult is that work for someone that's handy but not a mechanic?

[NolimitZ32]

If you're handy and armed with the FSM its doable, its pretty much the same as any other belt driven DOHC engine, you just have less space to work with (and yes everything behind the radiator will need to come out), it is an interference engine so it needs to be done. I don't have any scientific backup or otherwise to say that 10 years is too long for a tbelt but 10 years IS too long for a tbelt. You are buying a mint low mileage Z, don't skimp on the tbelt of all things, it goes and the minty car is a paperweight. Search around for diys I know for a favct that ttzd tech pages has a full diy on the tbelt.

[Zride4Me]

Yea, I had a feeling I was going to need to have the T belt done. Just never know how impacted from time the rubber has gotten. I will look around at DIY pages for sure to see if it's something I want to tackle. Correct me if I'm wrong, but really the only thing that I need to do is the T belt beings all the other things wear from use, not time like the T belt. I know the bearings in the tensioners and what not should be fine with only 25,000 miles on them.

[NolimitZ32]

At a minimum I would say you need to do the 120k kit which includes the t belt, idlers, water pump, thermostat, and a few other things, the items related to the t belt are a "must" the others are a nice to have and while you're in there you might as well. The entire 120k kit is sold by a few of the vendors including CZP and Z1.

[Zride4Me]

Cool, I'll do that, better safe than sorry!

I'm thinking it'll need a clutch soon too. It's going to all add up quickly! lol

[NolimitZ32]

yes it will.

[Zride4Me]

Is the clutch near the timing belt area, is it better for me to have it done while they're in there or does it not make much difference?

[NolimitZ32]

Not to be a pen15 whatsoever but the simple fact that you are asking me this tells me that you do not know enough about cars to perform the T belt job yourself. Take it to a professional. No the clutch is on the rear of the engine, it requires the transmission to be removed to change out and is not a cheap ordeal.

[Zride4Me]

Yea, I'm sure your idea is in mine and my Z's best interest! lol
I've only done basic stuff, CAI, replacing brakes, rotors, batteries, etc. Did the plenum spacer on my 350Z years ago...

Despite my lack of knowledge I did find this entertaining. I called a shop today that supposedly tunes newer Z's and infinity's. They told me they remove the motor to change the timing belt because it's easier to work on them that way. Now, things may have changed but that sounds ridiculous!

[NolimitZ32]

holy crap, who did you call? that's ridiculous. Removing the engine in these cars isn't like a FWD or a subie (which are incredibly easy to pull). I've never heard of anyone pulling the engine just for the T-belt. Where are you located, maybe there's a Z32 specialty shop close by that will do it right and not charge you 16 hours of time. If you do decide to go with this place and they do end up pulling the engine you are in luck because the clutch becomes accessible and they shouldn't charge you but maybe a hour of extra time to do that.

[Zride4Me]

I was shocked when the guy I was talking to said that! I told him that seems excessive and just needs to remove the radiator. Otherwise he seemed knowledgeable but not on the Z32. He also mentioned something about aftermarket plugs won't work and am stuck with the OEM plugs because no other company makes plugs long enough for that car. This also sounded bogus to me. I think I put NGK Iridium plugs in my Z32 years ago.

Any suggestions on how to find a Z specialist? I was searching google and that's how I came across them.

PS lol about the clutch.

[NolimitZ32]

Quite a few people run iridiums, there are only certain plugs that the VG30DETT likes but there are more than just OEMs, it seems like this guy's knowledge of the Z32 is either dated or incomplete. Where are you located, there are a few Z specialty shops scattered throughout the US I could probably point you to the one that's closest to you.

[DCaff300ZX]

Is the clutch near the timing belt area, is it better for me to have it done while they're in there or does it not make much difference?

I think he meant the clutch fan on the front of the motor, we have the centrifugal type which is known to go bad and cause overheat issues and is a good idea to replace with OEM ONLY when doing the 120K service. Just trying to help your mechanic save face when it seemed he may be all wet.
Definitely find a verifiable Z32 specialist though- as you are finding, it really makes all the difference in the world with owning and enjoying a Z32 compared to a really expensive headache that most other shops can produce.

[Zride4Me]

Quite a few people run iridiums, there are only certain plugs that the VG30DETT likes but there are more than just OEMs, it seems like this guy's knowledge of the Z32 is either dated or incomplete. Where are you located, there are a few Z specialty shops scattered throughout the US I could probably point you to the one that's closest to you.

I'm in North Delaware, close to the Pennsylvania border. Please let me know if you know of any specialist in around DE or PA.

Thanks!

[Zride4Me]

Is the clutch near the timing belt area, is it better for me to have it done while they're in there or does it not make much difference?

I think he meant the clutch fan on the front of the motor, we have the centrifugal type which is known to go bad and cause overheat issues and is a good idea to replace with OEM ONLY when doing the 120K service. Just trying to help your mechanic save face when it seemed he may be all wet.
Definitely find a verifiable Z32 specialist though- as you are finding, it really makes all the difference in the world with owning and enjoying a Z32 compared to a really expensive headache that most other shops can produce.

No doubt a specialist is in my best interest! It's a shame because I used to have a great guy that worked on all my Z32's but after I stopped driving them and moved out of the area he opened up his own shop and haven't been able to track him down.

I think the mechanic/tuner I called is probably a great mechanic, just not the right guy for my Z32. He could be younger mechanic with not a lot of experience with THIS particular car.

[NolimitZ32]

Younger or not, I know quite a few VERY good Z32 specialists that are in their late 20s or early 30s, hell I'm 29 and I know this car like the back of my hand but that comes from lots of wrench time. Let me post the question in the Mod forum and see if the rest of the staff has any recommendations, there's a good chance because a lot of the NICO staff is from NE and MW.

[Zride4Me]

True, age doesn't matter it's the experience with the Z32. In general though I feel the majority of the mechanics out there aren't that familiar with it.

Cool man, thanks for posting it over there!

[NolimitZ32]

No worries, haven't had any replies yet.