Shallow mount is the subwoofer design, basically a very shallow mounting depth. Replacing the stock subwoofer with a new subwoofer and without using an enclosure would be Infinite Baffle aka free-air setup. I did this in my Lexus and it did sound better and save space but was not enough of an improvement. I ended up taking the subwoofer down an putting it into a box.IlyaKol wrote:Shallow mount meaning you replaced the stock sub completely? That would be good to save trunk space, etc. Curious to see how it turns out. How To that shiznit lol.
Awesome. I am about 90% done with my install too. Single 12". I need to clean it up a bit and take pictures.DoN_BLaZe34 wrote:I'm not done with my setup but I'll get pics soon and post up for your guys. It's a JL shallow mount sub with a 600/1 amp.
No, I mean just use the audio settings to turn bass all the way to the left but somehow still give the sub the bass signal so it pumps out bass in the trunk. Is that not possible?Altered wrote:Ilya, only way I know to cut bass from the other speakers is replace them with a component speaker set that has a crossover in it.
As far as the power wire I used the factory spot on the firewall to sneak the power supply in with the wire harness, I've had no feedback issues so I'd recommend the same because it's directly behind the battery.
I have the base audio system. Putting the factory bass at the middle setting, which is effectively none, and turning up the gain on the amp has worked well for me so far. I only have 30 minutes of drive time with it so far though.IlyaKol wrote:No, I mean just use the audio settings to turn bass all the way to the left but somehow still give the sub the bass signal so it pumps out bass in the trunk. Is that not possible?
Exactly how I ran mine. This is the easiest car I have ever ran sub power wires in ever. So much room.Altered wrote:As far as the routing that's pretty much how it goes, you'll see plastic wiring cases on the way to the back of the car, I have mine routed through there. In the rear it runs into the trunk through a white plastic part I was able to drill through, keeps it neat and away from any metal that can cut it. The stock sub wiring is used for signal, and the stock amp power wire is tapped for turn-on.
Mine rattles on the drivers door and passenger rear door. Drives me crazy. It sounds like a loose door clip. Like someone took off the door panel and forgot to lock back in one of the clips. I hear it when bass hits or when I go over a lane reflector.IlyaKol wrote:Yeah I'm trying to avoid replacing the door speakers or installing padding. Infinitis are terrible for speaker/door rattle. My 07 had the same problems.
Medium bass is fine too I guess. That might be enough.





How did you burn it out?Altered wrote:RE Audio SEX12D4 v2 and a JL XD600/1 here, I used Audio Control's LC2i but I've burned out two of them somehow so I have a cheapo converter in right now. No pics though, I'll see about snapping some
Have yet to figure this out, but since using the cheapo I have in currently I had to snip the ACN and I can no longer run the setup hard without hitting cut. It pays to have a quality converterDarthswan wrote:How did you burn it out?Altered wrote:RE Audio SEX12D4 v2 and a JL XD600/1 here, I used Audio Control's LC2i but I've burned out two of them somehow so I have a cheapo converter in right now. No pics though, I'll see about snapping some