Subwoofer setup pictures?

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Debonair
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Anyone have pictures of their trunk subwoofer setup? I can't find any pictures of Y51's with subwoofer setups.

Thanks!


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Ilya
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I'd be interested too.

My plan is to just get a small sub in the back (powered sub most likely) to give some more bass and completely turn off the bass to the 14 speakers inside the car and just have them handle the mids or highs.

Darthswan
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Our sub lacks everything. I'll follow this thread closely. I've been waiting to add something just waiting for more ideas.

DoN_BLaZe34
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I'm not done with my setup but I'll get pics soon and post up for your guys. It's a JL shallow mount sub with a 600/1 amp.

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Ilya
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Shallow mount meaning you replaced the stock sub completely? That would be good to save trunk space, etc. Curious to see how it turns out. How To that shiznit lol.

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Debonair
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IlyaKol wrote:Shallow mount meaning you replaced the stock sub completely? That would be good to save trunk space, etc. Curious to see how it turns out. How To that shiznit lol.
Shallow mount is the subwoofer design, basically a very shallow mounting depth. Replacing the stock subwoofer with a new subwoofer and without using an enclosure would be Infinite Baffle aka free-air setup. I did this in my Lexus and it did sound better and save space but was not enough of an improvement. I ended up taking the subwoofer down an putting it into a box.
DoN_BLaZe34 wrote:I'm not done with my setup but I'll get pics soon and post up for your guys. It's a JL shallow mount sub with a 600/1 amp.
Awesome. I am about 90% done with my install too. Single 12". I need to clean it up a bit and take pictures.

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Ilya
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Sounds good guys. This is what I had in mind...had it on my old Maxima: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693319/J ... tml?tp=112

What I'm most curious to see from your guys' installs is how you ran the power wire from the battery.

Also, what would I need to do in order to have the trunk sub do 95-100% of the bass work (basically, I want to turn the bass on the display off completely so my door speakers don't do ANY bass work). I have a ton of rattles in my doors and it's a PITA, so I want to have the interior speakers doing as little of the bass work as possible while making sure the trunk sub is at peak efficiency.

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Altered
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RE Audio SEX12D4 v2 and a JL XD600/1 here, I used Audio Control's LC2i but I've burned out two of them somehow so I have a cheapo converter in right now. No pics though, I'll see about snapping some

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Altered
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Ilya, only way I know to cut bass from the other speakers is replace them with a component speaker set that has a crossover in it.

As far as the power wire I used the factory spot on the firewall to sneak the power supply in with the wire harness, I've had no feedback issues so I'd recommend the same because it's directly behind the battery.

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Ilya
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Altered wrote:Ilya, only way I know to cut bass from the other speakers is replace them with a component speaker set that has a crossover in it.

As far as the power wire I used the factory spot on the firewall to sneak the power supply in with the wire harness, I've had no feedback issues so I'd recommend the same because it's directly behind the battery.
No, I mean just use the audio settings to turn bass all the way to the left but somehow still give the sub the bass signal so it pumps out bass in the trunk. Is that not possible?

For the cable, you ran it along the passenger side? Did you run it under the door jams after you got the cable in the interior? Then under the rear seat into the trunk?

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Altered
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I don't have the 5.1 system, but on the standard Bose that's not an option. Best way is still to run components in my opinion.

As far as the routing that's pretty much how it goes, you'll see plastic wiring cases on the way to the back of the car, I have mine routed through there. In the rear it runs into the trunk through a white plastic part I was able to drill through, keeps it neat and away from any metal that can cut it. The stock sub wiring is used for signal, and the stock amp power wire is tapped for turn-on.

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Debonair
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IlyaKol wrote:No, I mean just use the audio settings to turn bass all the way to the left but somehow still give the sub the bass signal so it pumps out bass in the trunk. Is that not possible?
I have the base audio system. Putting the factory bass at the middle setting, which is effectively none, and turning up the gain on the amp has worked well for me so far. I only have 30 minutes of drive time with it so far though. :biggrin:
Altered wrote:As far as the routing that's pretty much how it goes, you'll see plastic wiring cases on the way to the back of the car, I have mine routed through there. In the rear it runs into the trunk through a white plastic part I was able to drill through, keeps it neat and away from any metal that can cut it. The stock sub wiring is used for signal, and the stock amp power wire is tapped for turn-on.
Exactly how I ran mine. This is the easiest car I have ever ran sub power wires in ever. So much room.

I took enough pics to put a DIY together. Maybe tomorrow.

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Ilya
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Yeah I'm trying to avoid replacing the door speakers or installing padding. Infinitis are terrible for speaker/door rattle. My 07 had the same problems.

Medium bass is fine too I guess. That might be enough.

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IlyaKol wrote:Yeah I'm trying to avoid replacing the door speakers or installing padding. Infinitis are terrible for speaker/door rattle. My 07 had the same problems.

Medium bass is fine too I guess. That might be enough.
Mine rattles on the drivers door and passenger rear door. Drives me crazy. It sounds like a loose door clip. Like someone took off the door panel and forgot to lock back in one of the clips. I hear it when bass hits or when I go over a lane reflector.

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Debonair
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My subwoofer DIY is up. DIY: Subwoofer and Amplifier Installation. Super simple basic box and install.

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Darthswan
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Altered wrote:RE Audio SEX12D4 v2 and a JL XD600/1 here, I used Audio Control's LC2i but I've burned out two of them somehow so I have a cheapo converter in right now. No pics though, I'll see about snapping some
How did you burn it out?

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reggiebrown40
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Great write-up as always Debonair. I've been working on a custom box and amp rack for a while. If I ever finish I'll post pics.

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Hey fellas, has anybody thought of using a tube bass speaker? I would imagine, they could save space as well, just a suggestion as well. There should be no issues I would think.

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Altered
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Darthswan wrote:
Altered wrote:RE Audio SEX12D4 v2 and a JL XD600/1 here, I used Audio Control's LC2i but I've burned out two of them somehow so I have a cheapo converter in right now. No pics though, I'll see about snapping some
How did you burn it out?
Have yet to figure this out, but since using the cheapo I have in currently I had to snip the ACN and I can no longer run the setup hard without hitting cut. It pays to have a quality converter

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TreyhunnaM37x
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Any ideas on reinforcing the trunk floor to support the weight of the sub/amp? Im noticing the floor is not so thick and might concave in a lil due to the weight

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Ilya
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I've always just used a piece of plywood and if screwing brackets, I'd just screw through the carpet into the piece of plywood. Doesn't slide around, not terribly heavier, etc.

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Looks awesome. I currently have 2 12's in a big box in my trunk that are taking pretty much all of my space. I'm looking to build a custom shallow enclosure to give me some of my trunk back.
There is an audio shop down the road from me saying they will do it for $1000, but I am considering just trying to do it myself.


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