Hello, I've got a 2002 QX4 and I want to throw in a sub.
I have been planning on experimenting on adding a sub to my Q but like honestly I have no knowledge on anything of such sort.
My dad use to have a Supra which he put in a pretty good sound system (during his teenage times).
I still have the sub and the amp that he had in the supra.
My dad told me that the wattage might be a problem and everything, I have a Pioneer TS-WX100BP, max watt is 300w and honestly I have no clue what it means by max watt. I also have an amp which I'm guessing is by Mosfet w/ 400 watts?
I have no clue, but what would be the easiest setup for me to put this in the Q? Or would it like blow up or something? ROFL! I don't want to screw anything up, but I really want to get some boom in the Q without spending any money. I also found some cables from a installation kit (brand new).
Anyways help me out, how would I get into the head unit and how would I connect the amp to my battery without killing myself?
Subwoofer Installation Help
Re: Subwoofer Installation Help (rCkWu)
It is my understanding that the Pioneer TS-WX100BP can only handle 100W RMS. Disregard max watts and focus on RMS. Do you have a stock head unit?
Re: Subwoofer Installation Help (nnorton44)
Yes, I have the stock Bose unit. Trying to figure out how to get around the unit.
RMS? Honestly an easier way to help me would be... would it be possibel to hook it up at all? Will it harm my battery or other s***?
Anyways, I have the amp... and the sub...
And the stock bose unit..
RMS? Honestly an easier way to help me would be... would it be possibel to hook it up at all? Will it harm my battery or other s***?
Anyways, I have the amp... and the sub...
And the stock bose unit..
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Qxxx4
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Re: Subwoofer Installation Help (rCkWu)
heres the thread from my install, ive since gotten a new deckhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=381231
focus on wiring before you worry about your amp. Set up your connections. Youll need to power your amp directly from your battery. Go for running your power cable for your amp from + of your battery (make sure you have a good size fuse there!), then through your firewall, Look at my photos and youll see the best place to run that wire. Then youll need your ground cable for the amp, this is easiest doing it under the seat like I did, the shorter the ground cable the better, and make sure you shave down the area you bolt to, you need bare metal.
Next id scrap your OEM headunit and get a new one that has RCA subwoofer out (red and white plug in cables, like on your vcr) Run these down the passeneger side to reduce interference with power cable. these go from your amp to your head unit. The bose headunit does not have this output, so its easiest to just buy a new one. BUT if your real cheap, you can solder these cables to the left and right rear speaker signals, bass wont be that accurate, but itll work somewhat if your desperate to use OEM headunit.
Once you have these connections, you can connect your amp, and then focus on how you want to connect your subs. To be honest though the bose stock system has a decent amount of bass, you wont really feel anything unless you go with a decent 500W RMS of power, thats my opinion. My 1400W going to 2 10's in a sealed box is enough to vibrate clothing, move hair, and make my girlfriend say (i can feel the bass in my organs).....trust me, if your going to put the work in, your going to want to make it worthwhile. The guys on here told me about JL components and real expensive stuff, i was on a budget, but as always, in the end, brands count! at least for reliability!
my lunch breaks over, good luck!
focus on wiring before you worry about your amp. Set up your connections. Youll need to power your amp directly from your battery. Go for running your power cable for your amp from + of your battery (make sure you have a good size fuse there!), then through your firewall, Look at my photos and youll see the best place to run that wire. Then youll need your ground cable for the amp, this is easiest doing it under the seat like I did, the shorter the ground cable the better, and make sure you shave down the area you bolt to, you need bare metal.
Next id scrap your OEM headunit and get a new one that has RCA subwoofer out (red and white plug in cables, like on your vcr) Run these down the passeneger side to reduce interference with power cable. these go from your amp to your head unit. The bose headunit does not have this output, so its easiest to just buy a new one. BUT if your real cheap, you can solder these cables to the left and right rear speaker signals, bass wont be that accurate, but itll work somewhat if your desperate to use OEM headunit.
Once you have these connections, you can connect your amp, and then focus on how you want to connect your subs. To be honest though the bose stock system has a decent amount of bass, you wont really feel anything unless you go with a decent 500W RMS of power, thats my opinion. My 1400W going to 2 10's in a sealed box is enough to vibrate clothing, move hair, and make my girlfriend say (i can feel the bass in my organs).....trust me, if your going to put the work in, your going to want to make it worthwhile. The guys on here told me about JL components and real expensive stuff, i was on a budget, but as always, in the end, brands count! at least for reliability!
my lunch breaks over, good luck!
Re: Subwoofer Installation Help (Qxxx4)
Thanks for your help and opinions, I will definitely look into your setup.
The Q is partly mines and my moms. Until my parents decide on either a Lexus or Lancer or some other car, I don't really want to spend too much money on the Q.
The Q is partly mines and my moms. Until my parents decide on either a Lexus or Lancer or some other car, I don't really want to spend too much money on the Q.
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K03sport
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- Car: 04 Pathfinder. My first Nissan was a '72 Datsun 510 Wagon.
Re: Subwoofer Installation Help (Qxxx4)
Nothing like 20+ year old car audio gear...
The best bet is for you to lay out your system on a piece of paper first. Make a list of the parts/pieces you are going to use and where they are going to go.
Before you run wires, have your amp location and sub location set. Depending on the amount of power your amp is going to be pushing will determine the size power/ground wires you will need. Your power and ground should be the same size wire. If you are only doing a 100W amp, then 8AWG wire is plenty. However, most amp wiring kits will come with 4AWG wire. No worries though, this will let you expand (bump up the power) in the future without having to run new wire.
Try not to skimp on the connectors. If possible, try to have all connectors soldered into place as opposed to just crimped. This will ensure that nothing will pull loose.
On your power wire, you want a fuse with 12" on the battery. This fuse is a must and is needed to protect your equipment and your truck. Also, try to run your power wire up the driver's side door sill unless you can find a gromet on the passenger side firewall that will let you run your power wire up the p-side because that is the side the battery is on.
For sound input, you can tap into the speaker wire signal that will go to the high level input on the amp. I believe the remote (blue wire) that turns the amp on and off with the car is any 12V switched power, but you might need to double check that. The remote wire is usually on aftermarket HU. Its only function is to turn the amp on and off.
The safest thing to do when working on your car audio stuff is to have the fuse pulled in the engine bay. That way you won't short any thing. You can even run two fuses - the one at the battery and one at the amp. Fuses are only needed on the positive power wire.
In the end, if you don't feel comfortable, either hit up you dad and hope he hasn't forgotten his youth, or stop by you local car audio installer.
The best bet is for you to lay out your system on a piece of paper first. Make a list of the parts/pieces you are going to use and where they are going to go.
Before you run wires, have your amp location and sub location set. Depending on the amount of power your amp is going to be pushing will determine the size power/ground wires you will need. Your power and ground should be the same size wire. If you are only doing a 100W amp, then 8AWG wire is plenty. However, most amp wiring kits will come with 4AWG wire. No worries though, this will let you expand (bump up the power) in the future without having to run new wire.
Try not to skimp on the connectors. If possible, try to have all connectors soldered into place as opposed to just crimped. This will ensure that nothing will pull loose.
On your power wire, you want a fuse with 12" on the battery. This fuse is a must and is needed to protect your equipment and your truck. Also, try to run your power wire up the driver's side door sill unless you can find a gromet on the passenger side firewall that will let you run your power wire up the p-side because that is the side the battery is on.
For sound input, you can tap into the speaker wire signal that will go to the high level input on the amp. I believe the remote (blue wire) that turns the amp on and off with the car is any 12V switched power, but you might need to double check that. The remote wire is usually on aftermarket HU. Its only function is to turn the amp on and off.
The safest thing to do when working on your car audio stuff is to have the fuse pulled in the engine bay. That way you won't short any thing. You can even run two fuses - the one at the battery and one at the amp. Fuses are only needed on the positive power wire.
In the end, if you don't feel comfortable, either hit up you dad and hope he hasn't forgotten his youth, or stop by you local car audio installer.