hi all,
I'm trying to install an amp, LOC, and subwoofers to my base 07 m35 but it is starting to look like a total PITA. I've installed systems into my older cars but it seems Infiniti has secured the cabin and trunk pretty well from everything else. Anyone that has done this install or have pictures can you help out?

1. how did you run the power cable through the firewall?
2. how did you run the power cable through the backseat into the trunk?
3. When installing a LOC into the trunk, what speaker and cables did tie into?

Thanks

The images in this thread don't work but perhaps the text can help you...it's in our FAQ.

https://forums.nicoclub.com/2007-m35-su ... 29737.html

For the firewall, I had to remove the battery and battery tray and drill a hole through to the passenger footwell to run my zero gauge wire. For the trunk, there is a hole covered with plastic up by the pillar on each side. You have to pull the back seat to see them.

I have pictures of when I ran my power cable. I can send them to you or one of the Mods so they can be uploaded for future use on the site.

But to answer your question, you remove the trim behind the battery cover and there is a rubber grommet that feeds the wire harness into the interior. you cut a slit in there and feed the cable through. You then have to start pulling apart some of the interior passenger floorboard/ dash trim pieces and finesse your hand in there.

Yes if you can supply some picture that would help out a lot. Thanks for the replies.

For those of us with the BASE 4.1 speaker system we have no rear sub. What speaker wire(s) do we tap into?

CarGuy87 wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 24, 2019 2:41 pm

For those of us with the BASE 4.1 speaker system we have no rear sub. What speaker wire(s) do we tap into?

My 2007 had the base model stereo. I had to tap all the way at headunit. You look up the wiring diagram in the manual that’s in the FAQ section. I tapped into the two front separates (mid/tweet) and the two rear speakers, ran those to the trunk where I took them down to line level with an Audio Control LC7i. I went from there to a 4-channel precision power stealth series amp and back out to the same spot where I tapped into the speaker wires at the head unit. It was a LOT of wire. I had to remove basically my whole Interior to run those wires and the power wiring.

I uploaded my pictures into a google drive but I honestly don't want to try to upload on this site. I can share with whoever wants to see how I ran the wires.

Thanks for the help. I’ve actually given up on installing this and will just pay Best Buy’s geek squad 140 to do the install. I’ve hooked up several systems but never had to deal with so many small issues. Going on Friday will let you know how it goes.

I would have gladly paid $140 to pay someone to do that work. I couldn’t find anyone who would work on it for less than 12 hours of labor...... and I didn’t blame them. It was a lot of work.

Just wanted to let y’all know the status.
Best Buy did a good job install a amp, subs, and a loc for $130. It took the guy about 4.5hrs and he didn’t seem to enjoy the install.
He routed the power line through the rubber part above the battery. The loc was connected to the right rear speaker. To get into the trunk he removed the back seats and drilled a hole. Then attached/mounted the amp to the back seats and ran a bass controller into the center console.
Overall I’m happy with the install.

[quote=Greg00gts post_id=6787823 time=1549253363 user_id=278043]
Just wanted to let y’all know the status.
Best Buy did a good job install a amp, subs, and a loc for $130. It took the guy about 4.5hrs and he didn’t seem to enjoy the install.
He routed the power line through the rubber part above the battery. The loc was connected to the right rear speaker. To get into the trunk he removed the back seats and drilled a hole. Then attached/mounted the amp to the back seats and ran a bass controller into the center console.
Overall I’m happy with the install.
[/quote]

That’s great! Maybe I need to take my car to Best Buy.
I wanted to still have the option to fade and balance from the headunit, so that’s why I went through all the trouble of converting down to line level from all speakers on my old car. Not sure if it was worth it.

Sstupid wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:28 am

CarGuy87 wrote: ↑

Thu Jan 24, 2019 2:41 pm

For those of us with the BASE 4.1 speaker system we have no rear sub. What speaker wire(s) do we tap into?

My 2007 had the base model stereo. I had to tap all the way at headunit. You look up the wiring diagram in the manual that’s in the FAQ section. I tapped into the two front separates (mid/tweet) and the two rear speakers, ran those to the trunk where I took them down to line level with an Audio Control LC7i. I went from there to a 4-channel precision power stealth series amp and back out to the same spot where I tapped into the speaker wires at the head unit. It was a LOT of wire. I had to remove basically my whole Interior to run those wires and the power wiring.

I'm pretty sure this was completely unnecessary. There should be nothing stopping you from just tapping into the door speakers. The cable color should be the same at the speaker and behind the head unit eliminating the hassle of removing center console and HU.

CarGuy87 wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 05, 2019 5:37 pm

Sstupid wrote: ↑

Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:28 am

My 2007 had the base model stereo. I had to tap all the way at headunit. You look up the wiring diagram in the manual that’s in the FAQ section. I tapped into the two front separates (mid/tweet) and the two rear speakers, ran those to the trunk where I took them down to line level with an Audio Control LC7i. I went from there to a 4-channel precision power stealth series amp and back out to the same spot where I tapped into the speaker wires at the head unit. It was a LOT of wire. I had to remove basically my whole Interior to run those wires and the power wiring.

I'm pretty sure this was completely unnecessary. There should be nothing stopping you from just tapping into the door speakers. The cable color should be the same at the speaker and behind the head unit eliminating the hassle of removing center console and HU.

Why do you think it would be easier to tap into the door speaker wires at the doors? Have you see the wiring harnesses going into the doors? Good luck there. I did it the way I did it because it was the easiest solution. There are no rear speakers in the back deck on the base model, either.
Also, the whole console doesn’t come out, just the top and the back. The audio control unit comes out in about 5 minutes.