Subwoofer amp install help
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Cruzader66
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Subwoofer amp install help
So I added an amp and a subwoofer by splicing into the rear speaker wires coming out of the Bose amp in the back. That feeds the speaker level inputs on my amp. But whenever I turn the stereo on, the amp turns on but I get no sound from the sub, nor the rear speakers unless I unplug the harness at the speaker level inputs of the amp, then plug it back in. Once I do that, all is fine. Is anyone familiar with this problem, any ideas??
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C-Kwik
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Re: Subwoofer amp install help
Not sure why it might do that, but disconnect the amp on lead and manually connect it after the bose system is already on. If that works, I might suggest putting the amps power on lead on a delayed circuit.
If you are splicing into the factory amp's power on lead, then also test the voltage as you turn on the stereo/car. If the voltage gradually ramps up to 12 volts rather than abruptly turning on, it may be wreaking havoc with the amp's circuitry. I would hope not, but I had an Inverter made by Monster in a G35 I owned years ago. It wired up like an audio amp with a turn on lead that switched it on and off and was designed to be wired straight to the battery. It had some safety circuitry that read the voltage ramp up as a problem and would not turn on consistently. The solution in this case was to use use a relay. The Bose power on lead was used to energize the relay but it passed through voltage from the amp's +12V lead to the amp's power on terminal. You could also try and find another +12V switched power source. Where this possibility doesn't make sense is that your system works after you disconnect and reconnect your speaker level inputs. But I'd double check it anyways.
If you are splicing into the factory amp's power on lead, then also test the voltage as you turn on the stereo/car. If the voltage gradually ramps up to 12 volts rather than abruptly turning on, it may be wreaking havoc with the amp's circuitry. I would hope not, but I had an Inverter made by Monster in a G35 I owned years ago. It wired up like an audio amp with a turn on lead that switched it on and off and was designed to be wired straight to the battery. It had some safety circuitry that read the voltage ramp up as a problem and would not turn on consistently. The solution in this case was to use use a relay. The Bose power on lead was used to energize the relay but it passed through voltage from the amp's +12V lead to the amp's power on terminal. You could also try and find another +12V switched power source. Where this possibility doesn't make sense is that your system works after you disconnect and reconnect your speaker level inputs. But I'd double check it anyways.
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Cruzader66
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Oct 09, 2011 5:00 pm
- Car: R50 Pathfinder LE, BMW e39 530i
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Re: Subwoofer amp install help
Yea, I tried that . . . I isolated the aftermarket amp's power on lead to another source, and it made no difference. It's gotta be something in the Bose amp's circuitry. I was just wondering if anyone else had run into this issue. I agree it's really weird. Fortunately this is just a temporary setup; I will eventually replace the whole sound system with aftermarket goodies. Guess I'll just have to deal with it until then, unless anyone else has some more advice . . .
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Cruzader66
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Oct 09, 2011 5:00 pm
- Car: R50 Pathfinder LE, BMW e39 530i
- Location: Jersey City, NJ
Re: Subwoofer amp install help
Update . . .
I couldn't stand this setup anymore and decided to advantage of 6th Ave Electronics' going out of business sale. Got a 10" Focal sub for $16, a box for another $16, and a Dual head unit for $66. They're not exactly top name brands and I wasn't expecting too much, but I figured it was a great deal regardless . . . boy was I surprised.
That $32 sub box slams, but is also tight and controlled- quite a shock for a budget setup. But what really stunned me the most was the Dual head unit, which sounds a thousand times better than the factory radio. Very clean and unadulterated sound. I wired it directly to the factory harnesses, so the the Bose amps are still part of the setup. Strangely enough, that's all I needed to do- no line output converters required, and it works perfect with no distortion or over saturation of the signal. My guess is that the head unit's 17w rms x 4 wasn't enough to screw things up. I guess I got lucky, such a relief that I didn't have to rip out the door panels and run new speaker wires. All is well that ends well
I couldn't stand this setup anymore and decided to advantage of 6th Ave Electronics' going out of business sale. Got a 10" Focal sub for $16, a box for another $16, and a Dual head unit for $66. They're not exactly top name brands and I wasn't expecting too much, but I figured it was a great deal regardless . . . boy was I surprised.
That $32 sub box slams, but is also tight and controlled- quite a shock for a budget setup. But what really stunned me the most was the Dual head unit, which sounds a thousand times better than the factory radio. Very clean and unadulterated sound. I wired it directly to the factory harnesses, so the the Bose amps are still part of the setup. Strangely enough, that's all I needed to do- no line output converters required, and it works perfect with no distortion or over saturation of the signal. My guess is that the head unit's 17w rms x 4 wasn't enough to screw things up. I guess I got lucky, such a relief that I didn't have to rip out the door panels and run new speaker wires. All is well that ends well
