Post by
stockbee »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/stockbee-u106221.html
Sat Sep 05, 2009 5:51 pm
As I mentioned on another thread a couple of months ago, my last 240 was taken away from me by a kid in a jeep who decided to pull across traffic around three weeks ago. After all was said and done I was able to replace it with this guy here. Long story short went from a mint '95 Pearl White 240SX SE to a near mint '96 SE with notchtop SR with supporting mods.
Ever since I've had the car the rear end has hopped out of line when I go over bumps here and there, and when it rains it's freaking scary to drive, it feels like I've got hicas steering and the rear is steering itself. Not to mention my alignment is apparently way off eating a set of rear tires in a week and a half.
I knew it was bad, but not this bad.
I realized I never had that issue on the White 240 so I decided that when I had a couple of days off I would take the white cars subframe off and swap it out for the green cars subfram and add some parts to take care of that alignment issue and prevent any future subframe bushing wear and tear.
I did kind of a walkthrough for anyone who needs the help and pictures:Chock the front wheels, and get the rear up on jack stands, and then double check the jack stands.
Then after you're sure the car is stable, grab your tools and get to work. The following need to be disconnected before you can remove the four main bolts that will allow the subframe to come off:-rear wheels obviously-Driveshaft disconnected (14mm, use a boxend wrench to get these)-Brake lines (12 mm)-E-brake Cables (take these off when the subframe is about half way lowered with the jack, it's easier this way, remove the clip on either side of the car and then remove the brackets holding them to the subframe, 10mm)-the three bolt brackets on the front of the subframe (two 14mm, and one 17mm.-sway bar (12mm and 14mm)-exhaust (depends on your car what size the bolts are holding it together)-all I can think of at the moment.
After you have all those things disconnected you can get a jack and some blocks of wood ready to lower the subframe down. Support the rear end and then remove the four main bolts (17mm). Then you can slowly let the subframe descend. You'll end up having a car that looks like this:
Subframe out of car:
Subframe after installing Circuit Sports Toe Rods, Rear Upper Control arms, and subframe bushing collars (can't really install them until they're bolted up but just for an idea):
The white cars subframe bushings looked okay, which is a testament to it's previous garage kept, lady-owned lifestyle.
Heard there were some storms on the way so I decided to do the rest of this swap in a garage. Mine's not big enough, so I decided to use my old neighbors, since they don't live there anymore... dang arsonists....
Anyway...
And after a much shorter amt. of time I had the green cars subframe out and ready to sell.
Don't mean to sound like a haynes manual or anything but installation is the exact opposite of removal. Some tips are to make sure you put the ebrake lines on as you're installing the subframe (I found this to be easier (but you can only do that if you have somebody holding the frame steady).Dont' forget to hook up the hose for the differential breather or whatever that thing is.
Finished product.
Sorry I don't have a better pic of the car afterward, just never had the time, and I had to go get it aligned fast. The old subframe was so out of spec, the New tires that came with the car were worn bare in a week's time, with normal driving, and no idiocy at all!!!
Enjoy the thread, hopefully it'll come in handy to some of the newer forum members who find themselves in a similar situation.
Modified by stockbee at 8:56 PM 9/5/2009