Subframe Installation Issues (w/solid bushings) - SEARCHED

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jdm_master_X
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I would just like to know if anybody else out there has had a pain in the *** time doing this. I've already had to replace a subframe stud (hacked a junkyard stud buy cutting out the floorpan section, and rewelding the stud because I'm a whore for OEM). Second attempt, I had 6 friends help, with one person per corner, and 2 coaching us with flashlights. I even sanded the paint off the studs since it's thick, and still, no go.

I wanted to create this thread in regards to installing a subframe equipped with any form of solid subframe bushings. I've read a collection of pages in regards to the install, and everybody has had different methods of installing the subframe. Below is a listing of common answers to the extreme PAIN IN THE a*$ task of installing this subframe.

-completely dismantling the subframe-having a friend balance the subframe with you-have all four corners on jacks-enlarging the bore of the bushings-greasing the studs-hammering the subframe in

So are there any other tips out there that made your experience reinstalling your subframe much easier?


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jdm_master_X
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Anybody? I gotta get this car done

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jdm_master_X
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Now my subframe is stuck. HELP!

nzmoman
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if you can keep it as level as possible its not that hard...

I would get the rear lined up first then get the front, then get a good floor jack to raise it and start the bolts. when they are all in crank the jack up and start tightening. when the suspension is in and bolted down then I would do the final tightening... it takes time and some reasoning skills but its not that difficult.

RBbugBITme
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Mine is being a ***** right now too. I'm considering installing the suspension and dropping the car down on it.

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jdm_master_X
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i got it back on a few days ago. ITS A WHOLE LOT EASIER TO BALANCE THE SUBFRAME WITHOUT THE SUSPENSION AND DIFF ATTACHED.

A floor jack per bushing is HIGHLY recommended, and maybe a friend to help eyeball one side of the subframe. balance and even lifting is CRITICAL in this installation. A good thing that helped me out is to lubricate the studs and bushing bores with lithium grease.

DO NOT BORE THE HOLES WIDER. This may create a dangerous condition where the aluminum will slap against the studs during driving.

It will be a tight fit, but make sure to get the studs through the bushings as much as you can. I ended up hammering each corner inch by inch, making sure to hit all of them accordingly and constantly checking that everything was even. Once you have enough stud sticking out, thread them all in evenly. My friend and I did about 10 quarter turns per bushing in a cross pattern. Then of course, TORQUE them all down and button everything up.

The downside is you will need to realign the rear. However, realignment isn't as bad as breaking a stud like I did.

Good luck!

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JDS Performance
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Yes it is a PITA to install a subframe with solid aluminum bushing installed

I have done it many times

You need at least 2 people (makes life alot better) - if you do it alone I pitty you!

The main thing is get the subframe as balanced as possable on the jack

Have 1 guy jack the subframe while you watch all 4 studs

It will get to a point where it will get stuck and want to bind up

This is when you need your rubber (2) mallets - 1 for each person

Jack the subframe up until the entire back side of the car comes up of the jack stands - dont go crazy just do a little bit at a time as this is very dangerous!!!

Then use the rubber mallets and hammer on the solid bushings evenly on all sides until you get enough threads showing on each corner to thread on the (4) 17mm nuts

The reason for jacking the entire rear of the car from the differential is so the bushing will have pressure - so the car will come down to the subframe while hammering on the bushings

After you have all (4) 17mm nuts threaded on - then evenly start tightening them down a little bit at a time until the subframe is all the way up.

But be warned!!! If you dont do them evenly and bind up the subframe you will strip or even worse break a subframe stud - and belive me you dont want to have to fix this!!!

Go slow - give yourself plenty time - use lots of grease, lube whatever - make sure you use it!!!

S13 chassis is a bit harder than the S14 - but they are both a PITA if you never did the install before

Also the S14 subframe is alot lighter that the S13

There is no need to remove the rear suspension arms or differential to do this install

Its alot easier to leave them on - but I would change the differential fluid while the subframe is out of the car

Hope this helps out the next person!I also have a DVD to help along the way


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