Well, after getting into a "drift" accident, I opted to replace my rear left wheel, and RLCA. Since this did not fix the obvious positive camber induced by the sidewalk, I opted to replace my rear subframe. After going to the junkyard and scoring one for 25 bux, I said, why not take it a step further while at it, so I went ahead and replaced the already cracked bushings.

Again, the procedure is pretty straight forward, but I though I'd share my experience w/others, and perhaps gain some new knowledge which may help later on (i'll also post it in the DIY sticky). I will not cover installation or removal of subframe for I assume everyone has a copy of their fsm.

1. Subframe will look something like this (with four huge rubber bushings suspended in metal sleeves and w/a smaller cylindrical bushing inside):2. Gear UP! Here you can see a rotozip (useless), a drill, a propane torch, and the most useful and not pictured (a metal saw (or sawzall, a hammer, a rubber mallet, wd-40, and 1 or two flat head screwdrivers):3. Burn the rubber, as much as you can. Then drill holes into the rubber, then burn again, then hammer/stab until that crappy metal bushing-cylinder is out:4. Now the fun begins. You will need to get the metal sleeves out of the cylindrical seats of the subframe (they are pressed in). What I did is I opted to reverse the blade of the saw and cut through this sleeve. Be careful here, because if you go too far, you'll cut and weaken your subframe seats. Now the saw won't cut the rubber that may be there, so you have to carve/burn a path for the saw all the way to the metal. Once this is done, you can begin sawing:5. The sleeves have this tab on the top side of the subframe on which you can lever in a screwdriver and start chiseling it out. I would start at one place and work the circumference of the sleeve. Once you have some of it out, you can shoot some wd-40 on the sides to help it slide out. You can also hit it from the backside now to help it out. Be careful not to hit the seat however, or you'll have trouble driving the new bushings in.6. You can see here the sleeve out, and the structure of the seat, as well as my obvious focus settings 7. Once you have all of them out, and have cleaned/sanded the seats, you are ready to install the new bushings. I assume you have put them in the freezer for at least 2 hours so the material is contracted. My technique was just to center and hit w/mallet. Others suggest to use a big bolt w/2 washers and pressing both pieces of the bushing together. I was too tired and too pissed to go this route, so the caveman method worked for me. You can see here the bushing positioned, as well as the utensil. BTW, flat bushing goes on top, and bored bushing goes on bottom, this is obviously the bottom. Also, some of these may come anodized, so I don't know if the mallet can damage the anodizing. Mine were either anodized or just had a thick coat of aluminum oxide, if it was the latter, than who cares?8. Installed:top side:9. Ready, again, I assume you know how to put and torque everything together, as well as how to eye ball toe and camber .10. Jacked ready for the car. I found out that it's not necessary to remove the cat-back if you remove it's hangers, and "bend it" all the way to the floor while you squeeze in the subframe through the top. I'd probably recommend removing it just because it makes installation/removal easier. Also, I'd recommend jacking all 4 points of the subframe at the same time, or you'll have some trouble with the mounting bolts entering crooked into the bushings.11. 1st impressions, well it was certainly a *****, and can't comment just yet on these. My camber did not get fixed (i'm guessing another arm was damaged besideds the one I replaced and/or the knuckle got bent somehow (which I doubt seeing how it's substantialy stronger than everything else.) and I have some noises coming from the differential. But from driving w/them, they have stiffened the rear quite a bit, and launching hard is not as sloppy as before (less spinning, less boucy behavior). I haven't pushed it yet, because I have to resolve the other issues. There is an added cool gear noise which I dig, and sound similar to that in-cabin noise you hear in stripped rally cars. Anyway, I hope this is useful to anyone, and if you are still reading plz give me a diagnose on the following problems:

1. That camber is still at least 2+ degrees, what can it be?2. Noise 1, I get when going in reverse slowly while engaging the clutch midway, it's like a grind/groan similar to when you rub a curve w/your rims.Noise 2, when going upwards of 30 mph. I 1st blamed it on the crappy replacement tire I got w/the new wheel, but am now having my doubts.3. I did spin my tires in gear while in the air, both forward and in reverse, could this had done anything to **** up the diff.? I ask because the reverse noise started after I did this. It just seems a bit odd that this could happen with no load. Am I better off looking for a axle shaft/or pumpkin?

I already got z32 rears, just hard to tell I guess from the pics (there's drum shoes somewhere there). S13 already have solid diff. mounts like you said. Again, these noises are awefully strange and don't think it has to do w/the bushings themselves.
Modified by Chingon at 10:33 PM 1/14/2005

I've also got the full aluminum subframe and diff bushings and felt that this should be included.

When you remove the bushings, it's EASIEST to just have them cut out with a torch. I paid a guy $10 one time and $90 the other (I got screwed by an AHOLE!!). Find a local guy that doesn't mainly industrial work, and tell him you just need the bushings cut out real quick, and he'll more than likely help you out. My guy did it on the weekend, after hours, for no extra charge. He will fire up a torch, cut a line through the outter race, and pop them out with a hammer. It takes 20 minutes tops (including loading and unloading). Just tell him that the race folds over and he should be good to go. Even with that $90 when I got ripped off, definitely better than the cutting it myself technique.

If you use ANY sort of HEAT, here is what happened to me:

I developed a rust spot and tiny hole on the driver's side front sub frame mount. Over Christmas break I had a shop JB weld the hold powdercoated the subframe. The heat will cause your subframe to rust eventually I do believe.

The noise of the "in car rally car" he is referring to is the turbo whine. The diff makes a whine when you accelerate. Those of you with modified exhaust won't have a clue about this noise.

Also it is not ABSOLUTELY Necessary to completely dissamble the subframe but it does make it easier to handle. Downside is you have to get an alignment after that.

Going to move / shuffle this a bit. Good info!

I think this thread may be the best place to ask this question...

Where are people getting the aluminum sub frame bushing kits? And now much do they run?

I am in need of new ones as mine are shot. Or will i find what i need in a "full bushing kit" ??

i gaurantee your camber is out due to the subframe being bent. I have been involved with s13's for 8 odd years and can honestley say i have only seen 2 out of about 50 cars that did not need a new (cheap at $50 aud) subframe after an accident like yours. If you fold the lower control arms consider the subframe cactus.

so much easier with an air hammer and chisel....my snap-on PH3050 will knock anything out of its seat

Two shops tried the air chisel on mine and had no luck whatsoever. I ended up having to sawzall two cuts per bushing to get them out after they burnt the middle sections out. Worst demolition job I've ever worked on for the car. Totally sucked my balls.

bringing this thread back up

I installed solid aluminum sub frame bushings on a s14 chassis todaygot them off ebay

as far as the metal sleeves that need to be cut out;on the s14 chassis the fronts (closer to the front of car)have (2) sleeves per bushing hole and the rears have (1) sleeve per bushing hole

Which messed us up as we thought the rears had 2 sleeves like the fronts - so we almost cut threw the subframe! But didnt thank god!

Also the rear of the car is droped about 1/4" +- / so the front is actually higher than the back!

I hear that SPL's bushings are taller to fix this - is this true?

I plan on making a set myself and making the the height I want them to be as well as incorporating some hard rubber for some noise dampning (for the LSD equipped cars) as they make more noiseI think they will be great - fix ride height - and lower vibration/noise!

Win-Win/Win!

Its just fixing a bad design from the start!

LMK if you want a set! I will mass produce them if need be!

here we go;http://www.240sxtechdvds.org/s....html

Here is our website for our newly designed Solid Aluminum Subframe Bushings kit (free extras);http://www.NIPerformance.org
Modified by JDS Performance at 7:48 AM 1/6/2008

i am about to do thins on my car and i would like to see the pics of this can you put the pics up?

wow old thread, welcome to nico

Pics are dead yes, I just posted in super old thread, cause I googled and this popped up first!