Sub Install "How To" 2011 M with Bose Premium

[flikz]

Well... Almost.....

Hi guys,

New to this forum .. and my first post..

Over here in Scotland the Infiniti is a rare and special breed...

I bought my M30D Premium S in September2011 and there are still fewer than a dozen (M's) on the road in Scotland.

The M is by far the most enjoyable car i have had for those longer journeys.
I have a Jaguar XKR for funtime and have driven all the usual "German" suspects over the years..

I am having difficulty getting the sound settings just right on the Premium Bose set-up.
The bass level is not "meaty" enough at my prefferred volume without sacrificing the higher end ..... "muddy" is how other forum members describe and I agree..

The car is under warranty .. so the short-termI plan on installing some subs in the boot (trunk to you guys).. and will replace the full set-up in a couple of years..

Having read a few of the very useful wrtie-ups I thought I would create a
"How To" for the 2012 "M & gathering photos for the task as i go along.

I plan to use a PAC OEM2 Line Converter to bridge the Ballanced signal input to Standard RCA Output

Set-up
x1 Alpine MRD-1005 Class D Mono Amp (at 2-ohms)
x2 Alpine SWR-1222 (2-ohm DVC Subs) in Matching Alpine Ported Enclosure
The voice coils are wired Parralell and Subs wired in Series
to give 2-ohms at the AMP.
Zero-gauge Power and Ground Cables; 8-gauge Speaker Cable (150-Amp block)
2-Farad CAP


90% done.....
Removed Trim Panels from Boot (Trunk)
Located Bose Amps under Rear-Deck
Located Low-Level Signals (using "Rear" L&R) and tested using DMM...
Cables Tapped-in at the AMP-"input" side
Low-level Signal Cables soldered and insulated with pvc tape
Power Lead Connected to Battery Post; which is positioned in the boot
Seperate Earth-points Secured for AMP, Cap and PAC-OEM2
Switched 12V+ power for -OEM2


Final testing of the wiring and some tydying up to do..... likley put her all back together this weekend

i will keep you posted
Could someone advise me how to upload photos?

regards

flikz

[splix]

I am interested in seeing this when you figure out how to upload pics. This is my next simple to-do on a weekend.

[flikz]

UPDATE.. Hit A Snag(?)

Rather than wait till the weekend I decided to crack-on..

The Low Line-level signal cables I tapped into are behaving strange when I attach a multi-meter..

I'll quickly talk you through it..

Day 1.
I located Front and Rear Signals from HU to Input Side on the Bose AMP connector Block (as per the diagram)..

Tested voltage on "+" and "-" both showing 2.5-2.7 Volts.. so a Balanced system (per other threads)

I Tapped/Soldered RCA lines to the "Rears".. and proceeded to set-up earth points for AMP, Cap and PAC-OEM. Got everything read for install next-day

DAY-2
quick test of the singnals & earth points again..
Proceeded to install thew PAC-OEM2.. and fitted sub enclosure in the boot..

Another quick-test before plugging all together.. hmm.. the voltage values on the Rear output signals (left and right) were now showing 2.0-2.2.. then dropped each 2-3 seconds by 0.1 volt..

I was not sure what I was seeing (failing DMM??) so I left the multi-meter connected to the "Left Rear" signal for a minute or two and watched it steadily drop by 0.01 volt every couple seconds to less than one-volt.. So I disconnected.. at that point & tested the "Rear Right" which was still showing 2.0Volts, then 1.99volts; ... 1.98volts etc.. I decided not to install (yesterday) and instead go online to re-check the wiring.. and to see if I could read of a similar occurrence..

Day 3 (today)
Went back to the boot and tested again..
Doh..
The volt value of left and right rear line signal (pin location and colours are accurate according to the wiriging diagram) is now reading 0.16 - 0.15volts!!!!
I disconnected as soon as it started to drop in value..

I have since checked Front L&R; Centre; and Surround Line Signals.. all circa 2.5-2.6 volts that drop 0.01volt evert couple of seconds I had the multi-meter on (Today I borrowed a new DMM from work).. Again the pin positions and wire colour for all channels are accurate to the wiring diags I have..

Point to note.. Sound quality nor volume has not been affected on any channel even the rear channels are unaffected;

The Voltage values on all channels are not effected by "Volume", "fade" or "ballance" adjustment at the head unit.. so i guess they are not typical line outputs.... I am more concerned with this count-down effect i have on the rear channels due to being attached to the DMM longer that the others

6 Million Dollar Question..
What is happening to the voltage and why is is it still degrading (not returning to normal)

Please feel free to ask any question on anything I may have left out..

regards

Flikz

[flikz]

OK Update .. Sunday AM.

Been away with work all week so this morning i re-checked the signals per advice received via the DIYMA.com forum... (very informative car-audio site)

My Multi-Meter had been set to read "DCv" .. Audio signals are "ACv"..
I re-set the multimeter and got my AC signal voltage values; 1.4-1.5volts on the Front and Rear audio signal inputs to the Bose AMP (wire colour and pin positions correct to the wiring diagram)..

The issue remains that the voltage value is constant regardles of "fade" or "balance" adjustment on the HU..
My conclusion is the HU is sending the (adjustment) signals seperatley via the COMS link to the Bose amp and therefore I cannot use as a "normal" audio signal source.

This goes against what several "How To's" for the G35 & G37; which suggest it is possible to tap the signal before the Bose amp.. I do concede that the 2011 'M' may have a different Audio signal methodology..

I plan now to take the car to a local specialist car-audio installer for a more formal confimration.. I'm hoping my budget Multimeter is the issue and a professional can locate a usable "before-amp" audio signal.

I could tap the audio speaker signals; "after" the bose AMP.. but the signal is processed pretty heavily by the AMP and my fear is my Alpine subs will simply produce more of the same "muddy" bass.. (but louder).

I will keep you posted.. (likley next week)

regards

flikz

[cruzad3r]

upload your photos to piscasa google or any other free image hosting site (flicker, etc) then copy the IMG Link and paste it here. you can use the full editor to insert image link.

[flikz]

OK.. got it

I will figure it out

cheers

B