sub and amps...help!

[aus_max95]

Just a general question about wiring for subs and amps...I just bought an alpine amp (MRV F340) 55 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms. I have an alpine Type-R sub, so was just wondering if i should bridge two of the channels to run it(I'm also runnin 6x9's through it aswell). If so, how would i do it?

[the converted]

Yeah I would bridge two of the channels. You can run your 6x9's of channels 1 and 2 and then bridge 3 and 4 for the subs.

[Haitian_King]

I've never understood the whole amp thing.

You can run your door speakers and 6x9's off your car amp and head unit right? And the subs need to be powered by a seperate amp.

So what's the deal with tthe after market small amps? I don't know if I need to buy one. I changed the head unit in my Q and I'm going to replace my 6x9's. I'm think ing of getting a woofer in the trunk. Should I go with 12's or 15's? A pair would be good.

[Quinn]

running speakers off an external amp allows for better sound tuning and more altogether loudness. for most general applications you dont need too. and if you have a factory amp with an aftermarket head unit, you should bypass the factory amp. and try to go with just a 6 inch speaker if your gonna get subs. a circle speaker will give a much truer sound.

For subs, it all depends on what kind of sound you want. smaller subs will hit higher bass notes and quicker, where as larger subs will hit slower, but will deliver much deeper bass. generally 12s are the preferred way to go, a good bit of deep, plus a harder hit. but weight can be a factor too, bigger subs weigh more, and the box choice has alot to do with how your subs are gonna sound.

hope i helped.

[Haitian_King]

But I have a Q45. 6 inch circles won't fit or look right in my rear deck. My speakers are plenty loud. I think the factory amp has been bypassed. When I bought it, it had a Blaupunkt HU in.

[aus_max95]

Yeah I would bridge two of the channels.

Any idea how?!?!

[the converted]

There should be a little diagram printed of what two terminals to use for bridged. Hook wires up to just those two terminals on those two channels and your done.

[audtatious]

ok.....

You should have two rows of switches and adjustment pods. The top row is for the gain adjustments, filter switch and crossover settings for channel 1 and 2. The bottom row has the same for channels 3 and 4 plus it has a input channel selector.

For simplicity, use channel 1 and 2 for your 6x9's and channels 3/4 bridged for the subwoofer. Set the top-row (channel 1 and 2 row) filter switch to HP (middle selector) and set the crossover pod to 60 or 100 (you can start at 60 and adjust to 100 if your 6x9's are receiving too much bass). For the bottom row, set the filter switch to LP, the crossover pod to 60. For the input channel selector switch, you have a couple of options. If you have dual-RCA outputs (Front and Sub outputs or even Front and Rear outputs) you can connect the Front pair to the CH-1 and CH-2 RCA inputs and the sub outputs (or rear-channel RCA outputs) to CH-3 and CH-4 RCA inputs and set the Input Selector Switch to 3/4 (middle setting). If you only have 1 pair of RCA's (Front output) then you should set the Input Channel Selector Switch to 1/2 (right setting) and connect the RCA pair to CH-1 and CH-2.

From a speaker connection standpoint, connect your 6x9's to the CH-1 and CH-2 +/- connections. For the sub, connect the +/- as shown via Bridged (+ is far right and - is far left)

I really hate these style amps as they can be pretty confusing to configure. Refer to the manual for additional information:http://akamaipix.crutchfield.c...0.PDF

[aus_max95]

Thanks guys!! I'll try it this weekend and see how things go!

[Looneybomber]

For subs, it all depends on what kind of sound you want. smaller subs will hit higher bass notes and quicker, where as larger subs will hit slower, but will deliver much deeper bass.

I tend to agree with that with cheaper subs due to too large of a cone, too much moving mass and too weak of a motor. Manufactures like to use the same motor with multiple speaker sizes. What works great for their 8 or 10, might not work so well with a 12 or 15, however, if a speaker company builds a genuinely good sub driver, a 15 or 18 can reach any note you'd want to play with a sub and hit harder than any 8 or 10. Why? because the cone doesn't have to move as far to produce the same SPL's

For example, check out the CSS SDX-15. It will "hit" any note you want harder than any 10" out there, and with lower distortion.