Stutters so bad cant pass 10mph!?!?!?!

[KrazyS0b]

I finally started my SR and everything ran great. I drove it home with no problems. Everything was fine. Good boost. No smoke. No stuttering. Didnt die on me. Everything was fine. The next day i was driving back to the shop. I live about 20 miles from the shop. So i was about 5 miles from my house and all of a sudden the car started to stutter real bad and i couldnt pass like 60mph. I stopped an looked over the car thinking it was a boost leak cause it was only acting that way under a load. Everything was connected and wasnt leakin. When i tried to drive it again i could hear like boost leaking right at the down pipe area. When i step on the gas and tried to speed up it started to sputter real bad and black smoke started to come out of the exhaust. So i figured the turbo prolly seized. I checked that and its fine. No shaft movement either. I read a couple similar posts, and they said to check the spark plugs and stuff. I changed mine. Problem still there. I checked my coils, and they are fine. What do you think my prob is? Could it be oil seals inside the engine? The plugs i changed were fouled out. Would the walbro fuel pump make it richer than normal? What about the FPR? thnx for any help

[schanne]

Have you checked all your fuses yet. A friend of mine had a similar problem and all it was- 2 fuses blown. Its worth a shot.

Hope its not anything serious.

[sr20goofus]

check all your IC couplers, plugs, etc...

i used to have a greddy FMIC kit with the BOV outlet plugged behind the bumper . the plug cam eoff one day driving home and the car ran terrible and i couldnt find the problem for hours because the IC plug was hidden out of sight.

i have no idea what IC setup you have, but its worth a shot.

[KrazyS0b]

yes i have checked all my fuses they are all good. Yea i have the greddy FMIC too. yea its still capped

[sr20goofus]

and none of the couplers are torn?

does the wheel in the turbo still spin freely by hand?

Check MAFS for being broken or getting dirty somehow.

Check coilpacks and ignitor. One bad ignitor lead could show up as a bad coilpack, so switch them around to see if the problem persists or gets worse.

[KrazyS0b]

yea none of the couplers are torn. The wheel in the turbo moves freely by hand has no shaft play. Could the MAF just go bad while im driving? hmmm i will check the coil packs and the igniter. Just strange cause i was driving just fine no issues at all then out of no where it just started. Could an exhaust leak straight from the turbo cause this much issue? Cause to check the wheel i took of the turbo extension and there was alot of carbon buildup on the seal like it was leaking. So i tightened it way better this time. I still have the stock catalytic converter on with 2 1/4 piping back from there. Would any of that cause this much problems?

[HeckYes]

when my MAF went bad it didnt go past like....2000rpm and it shook the heck out of my car too. just throwing that out there.

[KrazyS0b]

yea i know what the MAF's safe mode is like its mos def not that. Cause i had that when i tried to start it but he wiring came apart so i had to resplice the wires but thats fine. Im just at loss for what it could be.

[0wn3r]

Something somewhat similar happened to me except for the black smoke. My car started bogging when I tried to get on the throttle (more than lightly). Turns out the alternator was dead and the battery wasn't supply enough juice to support the electronics (likely such as the MAF).

It could be worth it to check those, but if your car starts fine it may not be the case for you.

Also, the Walbro fuel pump itself should not be the cause. Black smoke should signify too much fuel (or not enough air?) but the pump would not be the cause of that.

Not much help, but good luck.