I noticed recently that under occasional acceleration (not necessarily WOT), my car would stutter at about .5 second intervals all the way up through the rpms (almost at the same cadence as the turn signal clicks).
I also noticed that if I had the cruise control active, if I put on my turn signal, it would cancel my cruise setting as though i'd tapped on the brakes.
I put two and two together, and realised yesterday that the stuttering acceleration seems to only be occuring if i'm doing so with my turn signal on (i.e. made a turn and acceleration out of it).
Any ideas? Bad alternator / battery?
On a somewhat seperate note, my car "hisses" when under partial (~30%) acceleration...it's like the air box (i've got a fujita intake on there) is sucking air in; or at least this is what i've convinced myself of. Again
Geatly appreciate your guys input / advice.
Stuttering acceleration, and cruise control malfunction with use of turn signal.
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batman0505
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batman0505
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Re: (joe603)
Thanks Joe, really appreciate you putting my heart to rest on the short ram intake hissing.
I'll play around with the car some more tonight and see if the stuttering really only occurs when the turn signal has been activated. As well, noticed today my day time running lamps aren't working either...
Will update asap.
I'll play around with the car some more tonight and see if the stuttering really only occurs when the turn signal has been activated. As well, noticed today my day time running lamps aren't working either...
Will update asap.
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batman0505
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Re: (joe603)
Yes! And this problem didn't really start until afterwards. Sorry for not mentioning this, but the accident happened way back in Nov '09 and I got the car back from the shop in early February of this year. I didn't really think to link the two, because it's been icey out and it was hard for me to differentiate between traction slippage and this issue until recently when the roads dried up. Also, hadn't had an opportunity to use the cruise control until just the other day.
I got rear ended real bad by a girl who said her foot got caught on the pedal (I was fully stopped, she was going 60kph). Anyways, $15k damage, new bumper, quarter panels, trunk lid, exhaust system, and frame damage. They had to replace the driver side rear window (the little one, it's a coupe) too, and i've noticed that there is bad cabin noise now (like there is air coming in) when driving over 60kph.
I'm going to take it back to the shop to have them review this issue (as well, I noticed my battery is sitting an inch closer to the front, making the terminals hard to access because they are now covered by the plastic). I'll mention that i'm having this acceleration / shorting issue, although I imagine they'll deny it's association with the accident.
Do you think this may have something to do with my problem?
I got rear ended real bad by a girl who said her foot got caught on the pedal (I was fully stopped, she was going 60kph). Anyways, $15k damage, new bumper, quarter panels, trunk lid, exhaust system, and frame damage. They had to replace the driver side rear window (the little one, it's a coupe) too, and i've noticed that there is bad cabin noise now (like there is air coming in) when driving over 60kph.
I'm going to take it back to the shop to have them review this issue (as well, I noticed my battery is sitting an inch closer to the front, making the terminals hard to access because they are now covered by the plastic). I'll mention that i'm having this acceleration / shorting issue, although I imagine they'll deny it's association with the accident.
Do you think this may have something to do with my problem?
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EZcheese15
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Re: (batman0505)
I would say the fact that it was in an accident with that much damage I'm sure is the problem. It sounds like they have something shorted out on the wiring between the turn signal and the brake signal.
When the brake is pressed, under normal operation, it will also kill the signal to the throttle too (it's a safety thing). It sounds like when you turn the signal on, it's sending a signal to the ECU that your brakes are on, thus killing the throttle (like when you accelerate) or canceling the cruise control.
Have somebody follow you while you are doing it and see if your brake lights come on when you use your turn signal. If they do, then it's pretty clear that's what the problem is. If they don't, it still might be the problem but you might have to do some more digging to find out where the short is.
As for the intake, like mentioned, that is a completely normal sound for an aftermarket intake with an open-air filter element. The in-cabin noise I'm sure is also directly related to the window being replaced. Somebody ran into me earlier this year and I had to have my door replaced. Everything looks right on it, but now I have a very high pitched squealing sound from the wind when my window is down. I'm sure the weather stripping is a few millimeters off which is probably what is causing the sound. You probably have a similar issue.
The battery doesn't make sense unless they replaced it with a different size. You didn't have a truck mounted battery did you? If it was in the original location under the hood, there is no reason why that would have changed if you were hit in the rear.
When the brake is pressed, under normal operation, it will also kill the signal to the throttle too (it's a safety thing). It sounds like when you turn the signal on, it's sending a signal to the ECU that your brakes are on, thus killing the throttle (like when you accelerate) or canceling the cruise control.
Have somebody follow you while you are doing it and see if your brake lights come on when you use your turn signal. If they do, then it's pretty clear that's what the problem is. If they don't, it still might be the problem but you might have to do some more digging to find out where the short is.
As for the intake, like mentioned, that is a completely normal sound for an aftermarket intake with an open-air filter element. The in-cabin noise I'm sure is also directly related to the window being replaced. Somebody ran into me earlier this year and I had to have my door replaced. Everything looks right on it, but now I have a very high pitched squealing sound from the wind when my window is down. I'm sure the weather stripping is a few millimeters off which is probably what is causing the sound. You probably have a similar issue.
The battery doesn't make sense unless they replaced it with a different size. You didn't have a truck mounted battery did you? If it was in the original location under the hood, there is no reason why that would have changed if you were hit in the rear.
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batman0505
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Re: (EZcheese15)
Thank you for the advice, the body shop I took it too seems to agree. I really hope this is the case, as opposed to my previous anticipations (bad fuel pump. coil pack, etc.).
The shop couldn't help me out at all though, and basically just suggested I take it to an Infiniti dealership for service. I will book an appointment with them, and see if they can isolate the problem for me.
Will update following this.
The shop couldn't help me out at all though, and basically just suggested I take it to an Infiniti dealership for service. I will book an appointment with them, and see if they can isolate the problem for me.
Will update following this.
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batman0505
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Re: (batman0505)
So the dealership is telling me that the stuttering is the result of my MAF sensor needing to be replaced, about $700 (for the part and install).
The cruise control issue they say is unrelated and that I just need to replace the "multi-function switch", for about $250 (part and install).
They are also saying that I don't have the daytime running lights module installed, although I know 100% that I had some form of lights that would stay on anytime the car was running...weird eh? I know they would always be on because I used to use them to guide myself in the parkade.
Lastly, they are reporting that none of these issues can be linked to the accident, so I'm gonna have to cover them out of pocket
I will have them replace the MAP sensor...the rest, I'm going to have to think on.
Any advice or suggestions from you guys would be greatly appreciated...thanks in advance!
Modified by batman0505 at 9:00 AM 4/1/2010
The cruise control issue they say is unrelated and that I just need to replace the "multi-function switch", for about $250 (part and install).
They are also saying that I don't have the daytime running lights module installed, although I know 100% that I had some form of lights that would stay on anytime the car was running...weird eh? I know they would always be on because I used to use them to guide myself in the parkade.
Lastly, they are reporting that none of these issues can be linked to the accident, so I'm gonna have to cover them out of pocket
I will have them replace the MAP sensor...the rest, I'm going to have to think on.
Any advice or suggestions from you guys would be greatly appreciated...thanks in advance!
Modified by batman0505 at 9:00 AM 4/1/2010
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EZcheese15
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Re: (batman0505)
A bad MAF sensor will cause similar symptoms, but it should also trip a check engine light. Was your check engine light on?
If it wasn't, then I have a hard time believing it's the MAF. But you'll only know for sure by replacing it. If they replace it and it still has the problem, well then it looks like they can apply your $700 towards fixing it correctly
For the daytime running lights, are you sure you just didn't have the lights set to "Auto" and that they weren't actually on for good all the time?
If it wasn't, then I have a hard time believing it's the MAF. But you'll only know for sure by replacing it. If they replace it and it still has the problem, well then it looks like they can apply your $700 towards fixing it correctly
For the daytime running lights, are you sure you just didn't have the lights set to "Auto" and that they weren't actually on for good all the time?
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batman0505
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Re: (EZcheese15)
Lights definitly not set to auto because I have a compustar remote starter installed. And the starter made it so that if I left the switch to "auto", the headlights would just stay on after the car shut down (many jump starts have been necessary as a result of this).
I will take the car for a good drive tonight and see if I can make sure the stuttering problem has been resolved. I will also check to make sure the check engine bulb hasn't been removed or tampered with. Lastly, I will use your brake light test. Thank you! Update to come asap
I will take the car for a good drive tonight and see if I can make sure the stuttering problem has been resolved. I will also check to make sure the check engine bulb hasn't been removed or tampered with. Lastly, I will use your brake light test. Thank you! Update to come asap
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EZcheese15
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Re: (EZcheese15)
Oh and hey, one other thing I thought of. I don't think it's your problem, but it could be...
Typically whenever you have extensive body work done on a car, they will clean it really well (they have to for paint) and sometimes that involves pressure washing the engine bay. If they did that, it's possible they could get water below the coils and you cold be shorting out against the head and misfiring. Although, usually that only lasts a little while because eventually the water evaporates. Unless it popped the coil off the plug completely from the pressure. But I think the coils are bolted down on our cars, which would make it hard to pop off. Like I said, I doubt that is your problem, but it can happen especially after being in a body shop.
Typically whenever you have extensive body work done on a car, they will clean it really well (they have to for paint) and sometimes that involves pressure washing the engine bay. If they did that, it's possible they could get water below the coils and you cold be shorting out against the head and misfiring. Although, usually that only lasts a little while because eventually the water evaporates. Unless it popped the coil off the plug completely from the pressure. But I think the coils are bolted down on our cars, which would make it hard to pop off. Like I said, I doubt that is your problem, but it can happen especially after being in a body shop.
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batman0505
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Re: (EZcheese15)
Okay, so just visited the dealership, and they had some very disconcerting news for me.
Basically, they claim the MAF Sensor was bad, but it turns out it wasn't the only issue. They are trying to figure out what the real problem is right now. I guess they hooked up an external fuel source, and the car still experienced the same problems, so they know it's not fuel pump related.
When I was in there, the guy was under the strong impression that there is a wire that had cracked. He had a computer hooked up, and it was showing the fuel as running lean (~120%), and claimed that when he wiggled some of the wires that were coming directly out of the air intake, it made the air drop back own to 100%.
So he believes that one of these wires needs to be fixed...however, i watched him clip the only wire that appeared to have a crack in it, and when he re connected it, nothing happened whatsoever. Even still, he swears it's one of those wires and that the break has to be somewhere between the air intake and about 2 feet down the wires. He sat there and fidgeted with them for 5 minutes, and the fuel % did fluctuate a little (+/- 2%), although it was hard to tell if this was just a normal fluctuation independant of the wire wiggling. He said he would clip the whole thing (about 5 wires) and reconnect them, and that it should solve the problem.
I have serious doubts, but left him to it and said i'd call back in a little over an hour to see how that goes.
So now i'm in the hole $700 for a new MAF Sensor and install that didn't change anything (is there anyway I can make sure it was broken, or do I have to take their word for it?), and of course all of the labour that's going into it right now (so far 2 more hours). Awesome.
Basically, they claim the MAF Sensor was bad, but it turns out it wasn't the only issue. They are trying to figure out what the real problem is right now. I guess they hooked up an external fuel source, and the car still experienced the same problems, so they know it's not fuel pump related.
When I was in there, the guy was under the strong impression that there is a wire that had cracked. He had a computer hooked up, and it was showing the fuel as running lean (~120%), and claimed that when he wiggled some of the wires that were coming directly out of the air intake, it made the air drop back own to 100%.
So he believes that one of these wires needs to be fixed...however, i watched him clip the only wire that appeared to have a crack in it, and when he re connected it, nothing happened whatsoever. Even still, he swears it's one of those wires and that the break has to be somewhere between the air intake and about 2 feet down the wires. He sat there and fidgeted with them for 5 minutes, and the fuel % did fluctuate a little (+/- 2%), although it was hard to tell if this was just a normal fluctuation independant of the wire wiggling. He said he would clip the whole thing (about 5 wires) and reconnect them, and that it should solve the problem.
I have serious doubts, but left him to it and said i'd call back in a little over an hour to see how that goes.
So now i'm in the hole $700 for a new MAF Sensor and install that didn't change anything (is there anyway I can make sure it was broken, or do I have to take their word for it?), and of course all of the labour that's going into it right now (so far 2 more hours). Awesome.
Torry, he's from Canada...they may have DRL standard on cars sold their.
I agree with you on the MAF...doesn't sound like it's the problem, especially since there was an accident with the car. What if he removed the fuse for the rear brake light? That could be a quick way to see if it's causing the problem...then it would be a wiring issue (have fun with that!)
I would take it back to the shop and say it hasn't been right since I got it back.
I agree with you on the MAF...doesn't sound like it's the problem, especially since there was an accident with the car. What if he removed the fuse for the rear brake light? That could be a quick way to see if it's causing the problem...then it would be a wiring issue (have fun with that!)
I would take it back to the shop and say it hasn't been right since I got it back.
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batman0505
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Re: (joe603)
I am from Canada, however the car is from the states. The car definitely had something done to it to keep lights on at all times (not headlights, but a different set).
I will suggest the pulling of the brake light fuse if he is unable to fix the issue. Will know in about a half hour or so.
The frustration is just fantastic at this point in time, hahaha.
I will suggest the pulling of the brake light fuse if he is unable to fix the issue. Will know in about a half hour or so.
The frustration is just fantastic at this point in time, hahaha.
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EZcheese15
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Re: (joe603)
I don't know if DRL is standard on all vehicle in Canada or not. As far as I know, DRL is not required by law in all provinces, but I don't know Alberta's provincial laws.joe603 wrote:Torry, he's from Canada...they may have DRL standard on cars sold their.
I agree with you on the MAF...doesn't sound like it's the problem, especially since there was an accident with the car. What if he removed the fuse for the rear brake light? That could be a quick way to see if it's causing the problem...then it would be a wiring issue (have fun with that!)
I would take it back to the shop and say it hasn't been right since I got it back.
I would ask to speak to a service manager regarding the MAF. Replacing the MAF only takes about 15 minutes, and they have no way to show that it was bad if the car still has a problem. They should be able to put the old one back in after they find the real problem see if it was truly bad. There is no way they can say it was bad when the car is still not working after they replaced it.
Joe, as far as taking out the fuse for the rear brake lights, I'm not so sure that would help with anything. I believe the wiring that tells the ECU to cut power under braking does not go through the brake lights first and back to the ECU. It probably comes directly from the brake pedal and goes to the ECU on its own circuit. So brake lights won't necessarily mean anything. I just mentioned it before because it would be something to easily check.
Definitely complain about the fact you just paid to have the MAF replaced though and that didn't fix the problem. Especially when I told you I doubted that was the issue. You should give the service manager a link to this thread or print out what we are saying. It might help you fight it.
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batman0505
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Re: (EZcheese15)
If they claim the wire reconnection fixed the problem, I will definitely challenge them and say to put back in the apparently broken MAF sensor. I hope they don't screw with me and somehow intentionally make it not work...
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batman0505
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Re: (EZcheese15)
Semi-update. I called the dealership and the service guy told me the tech wasn't done with it (despite it having totally been 1.5 hours), and said it would be more like 2.5 hours. He made it sound like it would be 100% good to go though afterwards, however he's made it sound like that the everytime i've talked to him.
I'll call him in an hour (which is pretty last minute now because i'm going to be off of work in 2 hours), and if it's fixed, i'll tell him to put back in my old MAF sensor and be done with it.
If it's not fixed, I am clearly getting hosed....I guess i'll just have to tell him to put back in my old MAF sensor, pay for the several hours of useless labour, and get my car the hell out of there eh?
I love dealerships.
I'll call him in an hour (which is pretty last minute now because i'm going to be off of work in 2 hours), and if it's fixed, i'll tell him to put back in my old MAF sensor and be done with it.
If it's not fixed, I am clearly getting hosed....I guess i'll just have to tell him to put back in my old MAF sensor, pay for the several hours of useless labour, and get my car the hell out of there eh?
I love dealerships.
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batman0505
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Re: (batman0505)
Alright then:
Service dept phoned me and said the rewiring bulls*** basically resulting in no change.
They also volunteered to put my old MAF sensor back in without charging me for it.
Now, they are going to try putting in a new throttle position sensor...
As well, they are saying that when the test drive it, they are seeing a drop in volts from 4 to about 1 or 2 when they go around corners.
This leads me to believe there is something loose, and the centripedal force is making whatever wire it is shift....the service dept says if the TPS doesn't fix it, they will start to look into the wiring (although they claim to already have checked the rear wiring out).
How the hell is it that you guys know way more, way more quickly, without having even had to look at the car? Are you guys mechanics, or is it just from self-experience?
Service dept phoned me and said the rewiring bulls*** basically resulting in no change.
They also volunteered to put my old MAF sensor back in without charging me for it.
Now, they are going to try putting in a new throttle position sensor...
As well, they are saying that when the test drive it, they are seeing a drop in volts from 4 to about 1 or 2 when they go around corners.
This leads me to believe there is something loose, and the centripedal force is making whatever wire it is shift....the service dept says if the TPS doesn't fix it, they will start to look into the wiring (although they claim to already have checked the rear wiring out).
How the hell is it that you guys know way more, way more quickly, without having even had to look at the car? Are you guys mechanics, or is it just from self-experience?
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batman0505
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Re: (batman0505)
Okay, throtte position sensor did absolutely nothing.
I've told them to button it back up, and to go ahead and rape me for all the labour hours that resulted in absolutely no resolution whatsoever.
It's easter weekend, so their service dept won't reopen until monday. I really don't think I should bring it back to them anyways.
I will perform the tests you guys recommended over the weekend, and see what that brings to the surface.
Thank you for your suggestions and advice, keep 'em coming if anything comes to mind! And have a great Easter weekend.
I've told them to button it back up, and to go ahead and rape me for all the labour hours that resulted in absolutely no resolution whatsoever.
It's easter weekend, so their service dept won't reopen until monday. I really don't think I should bring it back to them anyways.
I will perform the tests you guys recommended over the weekend, and see what that brings to the surface.
Thank you for your suggestions and advice, keep 'em coming if anything comes to mind! And have a great Easter weekend.
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tollboothwilley
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Re: (batman0505)
YOu have a wire that is shorting out. Your dealer is screwing you because they *THINK* its something. They will replace your whole car if you let them. Then you'll pay for the car 10x over.
Taillights can impede many things. My friends 350Z had very similar instance with accleration hiccups. We found out that it was due to his tail lights being aftermarket. replaced with stock tails and BAM, all better.
Taillights can impede many things. My friends 350Z had very similar instance with accleration hiccups. We found out that it was due to his tail lights being aftermarket. replaced with stock tails and BAM, all better.
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EZcheese15
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Re: (batman0505)
Lots of us are techs/mechanics, or have been in the past. Plus we are all car nuts, and we love Nissans. Put that together and this is what you getbatman0505 wrote:How the hell is it that you guys know way more, way more quickly, without having even had to look at the car? Are you guys mechanics, or is it just from self-experience?
I wouldn't have agreed to pay any labor charges. If they can't figure out the problem, they shouldn't be charging you anything. At this point, they've already lost out on making money off of you unless it turns out to be something major like a cracked piston (which it's not...I was just throwing that out as an example).
If I were a tech at the dealer, or the service manager, at this point I would be thinking "what the hell is wrong with this damn car? I'm GOING to figure it out". At a certain point the work on the car goes from being a money making factor to being a curiosity factor. You are approaching the curiosity level. The dealer is going to want to find the problem for two reasons. One is to gain knowledge on what could cause the problem so if they see similar symptoms on another vehicle, they won't waste so much time diagnosing it. The other is because they are going to want to show you they are competent enough to fix a complex problem, and try to gain your respect so you return to the dealer (and spend more money in the future).
In the end, when they finally do fix it, parts are probably not going to cost much. You might be out a couple hundred bucks on a switch or some wiring, but I can't imagine it being catastrophic to your wallet. They might hit you with a couple hours diagnostics, but they can't charge you 50 hours of labor to replace your brake sensor switch, even if it takes them 100 hours to figure out that is the problem. The priciest thing I can think of that it could be is maybe the ECU. But my gut feeling says that's not the problem.
The way the service works is that the tech that is working on your car is going to work at it a few more hours. If he still can't find the problem, it's going to get passed on to a master tech if he/she isn't one already.
If the master tech spends a day or two on it and they still can't figure it out, then they will give a call to Nissan's tech line for support. They'll suggest a few things for the master tech to try that he/she may have not have thought of. If none of those solutions do the trick, the final step is Nissan will fly an engineer or two out to the dealer to look at your car. At some point, they will figure it out. The good news is, in the end, regardless of the lengths Nissan goes to fix it, you should only be getting charged to actually fix it, not the gazillion hours it took them to figure out the problem.
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EZcheese15
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Re: (tollboothwilley)
That's exactly where I've been trying to go all along. I know I don't have the car in front of me, but it really sounds like the brake wiring is shorting to the turn signal wiring. Where, I don't know, but considering the car was rear-ended, that's where I'd start.tollboothwilley wrote:YOu have a wire that is shorting out. Your dealer is screwing you because they *THINK* its something. They will replace your whole car if you let them. Then you'll pay for the car 10x over.
Taillights can impede many things. My friends 350Z had very similar instance with accleration hiccups. We found out that it was due to his tail lights being aftermarket. replaced with stock tails and BAM, all better.
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EZcheese15
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Re: (EZcheese15)
Oh, and also...
Unfortunately, if it is the brake wiring shorting to the turn signal wiring, and is a direct result of the body shop screwing something up, then the dealer *will* nickel and dime you for every bit of diagnostics, because it wasn't a Nissan problem. However, if this becomes the case, I would fight the body shop on it until they reimbursed you for the repair costs.
Unfortunately, if it is the brake wiring shorting to the turn signal wiring, and is a direct result of the body shop screwing something up, then the dealer *will* nickel and dime you for every bit of diagnostics, because it wasn't a Nissan problem. However, if this becomes the case, I would fight the body shop on it until they reimbursed you for the repair costs.
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batman0505
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Re: (EZcheese15)
Well, I went to pick the car up, and the guy basically charged me $1000.60 for doing nothing. That is for a bunch of labour (about $600 worth), wiring they swapped in and can't swap back out, etc. I didn't know what to do, and I didn't want to leave my car there anymore because the mechanic outright told me that they have no idea what to check next but that they were hoping to get a call back from an Infiniti specialist that works in a different part of town.
Everytime I bring up the wiring in the rear of the car, they brush me off and say that they checked it.
Oddly enough, the bodyshop ordered a brand new taillight for me because one of mine had a small crack in it (i'm not sure where, because I can't even find the crack). Either way, they didn't end up installing it because I guess they didn't think there was enough of a problem with mine also. And I know they didn't install it because the new one is sitting in my trunk in a sealed box, and my current taillights are mildly (literally hardly) smoked.
As another test, maybe i'll try to hook up this taillight and see how the car runs...it would completely blow my mind (in a good way) if that turned out to be the issue. I have pulled and installed taillight assemblies like this before, but not on a g35. Found a good write up just now, looks like it shouldn't be a problem at all.
Thanks for all the information, it goes a hell of a long way when you're as frustrated as I am, and $1000 in the hole.
Modified by batman0505 at 3:19 AM 4/2/2010
Everytime I bring up the wiring in the rear of the car, they brush me off and say that they checked it.
Oddly enough, the bodyshop ordered a brand new taillight for me because one of mine had a small crack in it (i'm not sure where, because I can't even find the crack). Either way, they didn't end up installing it because I guess they didn't think there was enough of a problem with mine also. And I know they didn't install it because the new one is sitting in my trunk in a sealed box, and my current taillights are mildly (literally hardly) smoked.
As another test, maybe i'll try to hook up this taillight and see how the car runs...it would completely blow my mind (in a good way) if that turned out to be the issue. I have pulled and installed taillight assemblies like this before, but not on a g35. Found a good write up just now, looks like it shouldn't be a problem at all.
Thanks for all the information, it goes a hell of a long way when you're as frustrated as I am, and $1000 in the hole.
Modified by batman0505 at 3:19 AM 4/2/2010
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EZcheese15
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Re: (batman0505)
Good luck. Sounds like you might be better off chasing the wiring problem yourself if your dealer is going to be charging you obscene amounts of labor for nothing. Keep us updated and we'll keep helping you try to diagnose the problem. If swapping he tail light out doesn't fix it, the next step would be to start looking at the wiring to the rear lights.
Take a look here, and this might help you. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2005/lt.pdf
If you're still lost, just let us know!
Take a look here, and this might help you. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2005/lt.pdf
If you're still lost, just let us know!
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tollboothwilley
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Re: (EZcheese15)
Did you get hit straight on or was it on a corner?
You need to test the continuity to the wires, SPECIFICALLY the turn signal wire. Something is crossing.
I would take it up with the body shop once you get it fixed. This is a safety issue and you wouldn't pass safety inspection if they go out and do a drive.
Change out the taillight and let us know if there are any changes.
You need to test the continuity to the wires, SPECIFICALLY the turn signal wire. Something is crossing.
I would take it up with the body shop once you get it fixed. This is a safety issue and you wouldn't pass safety inspection if they go out and do a drive.
Change out the taillight and let us know if there are any changes.
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EZcheese15
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Re: (tollboothwilley)
Exactly like tbw said,
Read through the FSM that I linked you and check to see what the continuity should be between each connection on the back of both the brake lights as well as turn signal lights. Also, check the voltage going into them under different scenarios. Brakes applied, turn signal on, both at the same time, etc. and see if you can find anything that doesn't match up to what the FSM says it should be. I still think it's a short between the brake lights and turn signal, so you should find a problem checking either of them.
You may also want to see if your turn signal lights come on when you hit the brakes. Also, try to determine if you have the problem with either turn signal on, or if it's just one or the other. And finally see if you have the problem with the hazard lights on too.
When its all said and done and you find the problem, I'd still try to make the body shop at least pay you back for the labor charges you got from the dealer.
Read through the FSM that I linked you and check to see what the continuity should be between each connection on the back of both the brake lights as well as turn signal lights. Also, check the voltage going into them under different scenarios. Brakes applied, turn signal on, both at the same time, etc. and see if you can find anything that doesn't match up to what the FSM says it should be. I still think it's a short between the brake lights and turn signal, so you should find a problem checking either of them.
You may also want to see if your turn signal lights come on when you hit the brakes. Also, try to determine if you have the problem with either turn signal on, or if it's just one or the other. And finally see if you have the problem with the hazard lights on too.
When its all said and done and you find the problem, I'd still try to make the body shop at least pay you back for the labor charges you got from the dealer.
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EZcheese15
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Re: (tollboothwilley)
Also, you may need this too. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2005/pg.pdf
Page 51 & 52 show you where all the body harnesses are. So when you are looking at the lighting section you know where to find the connectors they refer to.
Page 51 & 52 show you where all the body harnesses are. So when you are looking at the lighting section you know where to find the connectors they refer to.
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batman0505
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Re: (EZcheese15)
Okay, time for an update!
Tried swapping the driver's side taillight (the one that got the little crack that I can't see, yet for some reason necessitated purchasing a new one)...either way, no effect.
Oh, and btw, the car was hit more or less straight on from behind (maybe a little to more towards the driver's side (6 inches from center).
Here's something odd though...I have 2 switches in my glove box. The one with the pictue of the open trunk (which I believe is supposed to be the lock switch) turns my nav screen on or off (when the screen is raised) . The other doesn't seem to have any effect that I can notice (it is a circular switch with an "I" on top and an "O" on the bottom)...do you guys have such a switch in your cars? I can't find anything about it in the owner's manal.
Unfortunately, I don't know anything about wiring or testing and stuff...I am keen to learn though, so I will continue to investigate how possible it will be for me to test the continuity of the wires myself; what tools/equip should I look into getting? Lost would be a very good way of describing how I feel right now, hahaha.
One last question, when your g35's are running without the headlights on and you look at your front lights while in park...are absolutely no lights on?? Mine are all completely blank...where as I remember for sure that the DRL's and the line of lights that runs up the side of the headlight assembly would be on.
Tried swapping the driver's side taillight (the one that got the little crack that I can't see, yet for some reason necessitated purchasing a new one)...either way, no effect.
Oh, and btw, the car was hit more or less straight on from behind (maybe a little to more towards the driver's side (6 inches from center).
Here's something odd though...I have 2 switches in my glove box. The one with the pictue of the open trunk (which I believe is supposed to be the lock switch) turns my nav screen on or off (when the screen is raised) . The other doesn't seem to have any effect that I can notice (it is a circular switch with an "I" on top and an "O" on the bottom)...do you guys have such a switch in your cars? I can't find anything about it in the owner's manal.
Unfortunately, I don't know anything about wiring or testing and stuff...I am keen to learn though, so I will continue to investigate how possible it will be for me to test the continuity of the wires myself; what tools/equip should I look into getting? Lost would be a very good way of describing how I feel right now, hahaha.
One last question, when your g35's are running without the headlights on and you look at your front lights while in park...are absolutely no lights on?? Mine are all completely blank...where as I remember for sure that the DRL's and the line of lights that runs up the side of the headlight assembly would be on.
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EZcheese15
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Re: (batman0505)
Well, I don't have a G35, I have a G37, and I also don't have nav, so I don't know anything about those buttons. But a I/O switch is a power switch of some sort. Sounds almost like those are backwards for some reason. Your car is just getting weirder and weirder by the day.
I don't know what lights stay on with DLR because I don't have them. If your car was originally from the states, I don't know why it would have DLR either, but who knows. If you don't have DLR, then no lights should be on, regardless of what gear you are in (although, I'm a little confused, you say "park" but your profile says you have a manual?). I have a manual too, but either way, without DLR, no lights should be on.
To start testing the wiring you basically just need a volt/ohm meter. Spend the money on a digital one, don't waste time buying a $5 analog one from Walmart. You can get a decent digital one for $20-$30.
That's really the only "tool" you'll need to do some testing. But some other things that help are T-pins, Alligator clips, and maybe some spare wire. The T-pins will make it easier to backprobe connections or poke into a wire to get a reading off of it, and the alligator clips and extra wire will be useful if you are trying to check readings between two wires that are far apart. You can clip a wire onto a T-pin and basically extend how far you can reach with your leads on your meter.
Did you get a chance to do the brake light/turn signal test with somebody behind you?
I don't know what lights stay on with DLR because I don't have them. If your car was originally from the states, I don't know why it would have DLR either, but who knows. If you don't have DLR, then no lights should be on, regardless of what gear you are in (although, I'm a little confused, you say "park" but your profile says you have a manual?). I have a manual too, but either way, without DLR, no lights should be on.
To start testing the wiring you basically just need a volt/ohm meter. Spend the money on a digital one, don't waste time buying a $5 analog one from Walmart. You can get a decent digital one for $20-$30.
That's really the only "tool" you'll need to do some testing. But some other things that help are T-pins, Alligator clips, and maybe some spare wire. The T-pins will make it easier to backprobe connections or poke into a wire to get a reading off of it, and the alligator clips and extra wire will be useful if you are trying to check readings between two wires that are far apart. You can clip a wire onto a T-pin and basically extend how far you can reach with your leads on your meter.
Did you get a chance to do the brake light/turn signal test with somebody behind you?
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