Once you get a volt/ohm meter, you want to start checking the circuits to make sure they are working correctly. I'd check the turn signal circuit first, so go to http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2005/lt.pdf page 122. Page 121 basically says to check the fuses, which I'm sure has already been done and it's probably not the problem. Starting at step 2, it tells you what connections to check. If it says check voltage, set the meter to volts, and if it says continuity, set it to ohms.

I'm not sure what you know about electronics, but voltage is how much power is coming through a circuit, while continuity (measured in ohms), is how much resistance there is between two points in a circuit. If you touch the two leads together, you should get 0 ohms resistance (nothing in the way of making a complete circuit). However, if you hold them completely apart, you should get a reading of infinity resistance. If you ran a wire between the two leads, you would get a reading of a few ohms because although the circuit is able to complete, it has to pass through a wire to do so. Make sense?

So anyway, follow the steps to check the turn signal circuit. Connectors M1 and M2 that it says to check can be found here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2005/pg.pdf on page 42. When you find the connectors, unplug them and stick the positive (red) probe from the meter in the pin # it says to check. Use a t-pin if the connector is too small to get the probe into. The directions also say the color of wire that goes into that pin slot so you can help identify you are on the correct pin #. The first one is pin 11, a Light Green wire and ground (somewhere metal on the chassis). Check with the ignition switch off, accessory, and on positions and compare to the chart. Next is pin 38, a white and blue wire. Etc. etc.

Move on to step 3 if everything seems ok. Do each one of these tests with the brake pressed and not pressed. If everything is working correctly, you should get the same readings either way. I think you may find that you get a different reading in step 3 with the pedal pressed vs. not pressed, but we'll find out.

If you do all that and still can't find any problem, let us know, and we'll move onto testing other circuits.

And just looking ahead...

If you get through all that and it is all working, it means the back half of the car is working correctly. Next step would to be start tracing the circuit upward to the switch in the steering column. Steps on testing the continuity between connector M1 and M29 can be found on the lt.pdf page 134. Then if that harness checks out, page 135 will tell you how to check the actual switch. Although you need an oscilloscope to check those voltages since it is an alternating signal. That costs more for the tool than a volt/ohm meter, but I really don't think it'll go that far. I think you'll find the problem earlier in these steps.

You're not the only one. Sounds like I'm having exactly the same symptoms you are having. My car stutters when accelerating with blinker on, stuttering is at the same cadence as blinker. Turn signal cancels cruise control also. Did you ever find the issue?

I'm on a 5000 mile vacation with my used Quest for the first time. I had a battery die overnight in Phoenix for no apparent reason (nothing plugged in and no lights left on). Jumped the car with no problems on the battery, but no my turn signal trips out my cruise setting each time (left and right). No it has degraded to my turn signals not workng at all. They blink once and stop. The cruise control set light flashes so I can't even set the cruise anymore. Any advice? sounds like some wiring issues or something damaged from the jump. No check engine light on and everything else is working OK from what I can tell

I'd call Nissan corporate. I had an issue with my ecu in my car, dealer kept screwing with me. Got a call from corporate that night for a survey. Told the ***** on the phone what was up and the next morning at 8am my dealership was calling me up to have me bring the car back in and fixed free of charge (also got a bunch of free oil changes! =D ). So I'd call Nissan directly tell them the dealer is sucking balls and they should at the very least light a fire under their asses. ESPECIALLY since you've already handed them over $1k. Infiniti preaches the "Total ownership Experience", let them know as of now, the "Experience" isn't as advertised.

Also, the switches in the glove box, I have the similar set up with 2 switches, but that is to ground out my sensors so that I can play video while driving and don't get that safety bull****. Don't know if that is the case with yours, but that is where i chose to locate my switches.

In short my advice, call Nissan and start complaining.

Had same problem with 2012 Nissan Sentra and after reading several same type problems realized that I had replaced my right rear light set and thought maybe there was water getting in. I got in the trunk and pulled back the covering to get to the fittings to remove the light cluster. When I started to unplug the electrical connector as I started to move it to get more room to unplug it the connector fell apart. I put it back together and made certain it was firmly fastened. Got my wife to assist in checking all the light system with brakes, turn signals etc. and everything worked properly. Got in the car and took it for a test drive and everything worked properly regardless of what I tried in all combinations with turn signals, cruise control, brakes, lights, rear camera. No more frightening problems. Cause-loose connector in trunk to right rear lights.

On all CVT Nissans, the tranny controller (TCM) monitors both the brake lamp and reverse lamp circuits. If the circuits at the taillamps get crossed for any reason, it can cause all manner of screwy behavior. The most infamous is the P0705 "Range Switch" code on Versas, which is always caused by a wet or corroded taillamp and not the Range Switch. The point is, anytime you get weird behavior from a taillamp and the drivetrain at the same time, suspect a problem in the trunk and not in the drivetrain.