Stumped! If anyone can shed some light...

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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mikesim
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Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2004 8:49 am

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When i took the car out of storage this year, i had replaced my throttle body with a KA24E TB. mainly because mine was leaking coolant at the fitting, so i decided to bypass it. when i took it out for the first time, it seemed like it wanted to stumble when i was cruising. the car only did it once, so i thought it was nothing. about a week later, it started doing it more often. as the days got warmer, it would stall when i was in motion. sometime it would stall when i am at a stop, but not coming to a stop or anything like that.

once i drove it to the grocery store about 10 blocks away. it was a hot day, and i parked it fine. when i went back out to the car, it wouldn't start. it cranked, but it wouldn't start. after about 5 minutes i took a screwdriver, and loosened the bolts on the CAS a bit. i tried to start it again, and it started just fine! i managed to drive it home without incident.

i read the codes, and i got an 11 (water temp sensor), and afterwards just 55's. the problem seemed to be ignition related, so i bought a Q45 igniter, and a new CAS. i also bought new spark plugs, BKR7E. i bought a new WTS, and coolant gauge sensor as well. I also replaced the O2, as it's been running rich because i had a blown down pipe - up pipe gasket. i found a copper gasket for that. i also bought a new Aeromotive A1000 AFPR and gauge, and set the base fuel pressure to 36psi, like in the FAQ. i just wanted to tie up all the loose ends, hoping that the problem would be solved.

after the repairs, i drove it to and from my cousins place (on a rainy day) without incident. the following day (monday), i was ripping on it a bit, and it stalled at a light close to home.

so yesterday i put on a wide band and foiled up the stock sensor (to trick it into thinking AFR's were perfect). i took it for a drive in 30*C weather during the day. it ran fine, and surprisingly, the AFR's were ok. it was fluctuating alot between 12.1 and 13 when cruising, but on throttle, it dips down to 11's. in boost past 50% throttle, it's right down to 10's and 9s. i have to tune that out on the dyno, but i just wanted to get the street drive ability back.

so i'm cruising to my cousin's place at night (24*C evening) and it stalls on me twice. the first time i was doing about 80 up a light incline. i noticed the AFR's go lean, like the injectors shut off, but the car was still cruising at high RPM. a blip on the throttle told me it was dead coasting. i put the clutch in and pulled over. the rpm immediately dropped to zero. i wait no more than 5 minutes and fire it back up and drive away. later it wanted to stall again, so i took off the stock silvia grill (in hopes it was the heat that's stalling it), but it was still stumbling while cruising there.

returning from his place at 4AM (went rollerblading :D), it was only 9*C, and i drove it home without so much as a stumble. also, the water temp never made it to NOT.

i am at my wits end here. i have not checked are the AAC and the Air Regulator, since it idles perfectly. it idles high (1400 cold, 900 warm), but i haven't had a problem holding idle. timing is set at 15 degrees advanced with a plug wire on the #1 coilpack.

I'm wondering if it could be the injector driver, or the injectors. they are rebuilt 440CC DSM injectors. they spent about 5000km's in a friends 11 second 1G DSM before he sold them to me. I've had them about 30,000km's now. would the knock sensor also shut down the car like that? i know my old car read more knock when warm. i haven't checked it on the Silvia when i was cruising. i know the S-AFC is crappy for showing knock, but if it jumps from 40 to 100, it shows up atleast.

where should i start for troubleshooting? is there something i missed, or need to explain more?

Mike


Modified by mikesim at 3:08 PM 5/10/2007


Masterdebater
Posts: 523
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 11:02 am
Car: 1989 nissan 240sx coupe

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ur spark plugs...bkr7e?doesnt the ca run bkr6e?maybe the spark plugs are heating upim no expert but im juts proposing a solution so u have something to go off of. do u have a boost gauge? if so whats ur vacuum at

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mikesim
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Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2004 8:49 am

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they're one step colder for running 16psi daily.

i think the vacuum reads 55mmHG? i haven't checked in awhile, but it hasn't changed much since i put in the HKS cams last year. i lost about 5mmHG of vacuum when the cams when in. boost comes in strong at 16psi @ 4000RPM.

edit: it's 40cmHG. i just went out and double checked.

boost_boy
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Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
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Code 11 is the crank angle sensor and code 13 is the water temperature sensor. The water temperature sensor will cause you all kind of stupid problems. If you've never changed your water temperature sensor, now is a good time to do it.

Dee

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mikesim
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Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2004 8:49 am

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yea, i replaced the water temp sensor (posted as WTS above).

i think the only things that aren't new are the FICD (which i don't need anymore - should i remove it?), the AAC Valve, knock sensor, and the IACV / Air Regulator. i read other threads on the stalling and the air regulators part in all of it, but i'm not confident that's a part i should be looking at.


ceniack
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you may check your voltage to your fuel pump and possibly even consider hardwiring it.

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mikesim
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Joined: Sun Apr 25, 2004 8:49 am

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i've run the Walbro 255 fuel pump for about 2 years now. wouldn't i read weird AFR's if it weren't operating properly? i'll check it out though.

any other points i should check? i did replace my battery, but not the ground wire.


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