IIRC, there is a type of object referenced in the 2006 M45 FSM that is wedged in the access hole to the crank plate/flywheel while you break the crank bolt loose. That makes me think an appropriately shaped metal object back there will do the job just fine without breaking teeth. Otherwise, the other method is jamming the crankshaft with a wooden hammer handle but that requires oil pan removal.FlawleZ wrote:So my harmonic balancer has a wobble to it... Is there a way to lock the crank pulley? The bolt refuses to budge. Anyone else run into this? Any ideas?
OP already got the thing loose, and I don't know enough to recommend the starter method, but I'm pretty sure "quick action" isn't an option with the push button and programming combination in mf 06 M45. It used to be possible to trip a starter with just a screwdriver, so I should imagine it would still be possible with some kind of jumper. So, in case anyone needs this thread in the future, is that still possible, and is it still safe for an engine? I ask because I would think this scenario (that I wouldn't want to perform regardless) would only need the starter to crank and don't actually need any other ignition systems going.EdBwoy wrote:On other ideas, I've used the starter bump method which is not usually my preference due to the risk to the crankshaft threads as mentioned above. A push button ignition means you've gotta have some quick action. However, a part of me thinks this would be your best try if it won't respond to an impact gun. I preferred the cheater bar hanging out of the lower driver side so that it would beat on the ground instead of the vehicle structure. Long enough to ensure it beats on something and stops before whipping around and tearing stuff, but short enough to enable the end to travel a little and gain momentum (over 15 degress, if you can)
I was very leary of trying the starter bump for this reason. For what it's worth, I was able to get the bolt off with my impact, it just required a lot of heat. I actually switched it to tighten briefly, gave it a second or two, then switched back to reverse and it zipped off.The00Dustin wrote:OP already got the thing loose, and I don't know enough to recommend the starter method, but I'm pretty sure "quick action" isn't an option with the push button and programming combination in mf 06 M45. It used to be possible to trip a starter with just a screwdriver, so I should imagine it would still be possible with some kind of jumper. So, in case anyone needs this thread in the future, is that still possible, and is it still safe for an engine? I ask because I would think this scenario (that I wouldn't want to perform regardless) would only need the starter to crank and don't actually need any other ignition systems going.EdBwoy wrote:On other ideas, I've used the starter bump method which is not usually my preference due to the risk to the crankshaft threads as mentioned above. A push button ignition means you've gotta have some quick action. However, a part of me thinks this would be your best try if it won't respond to an impact gun. I preferred the cheater bar hanging out of the lower driver side so that it would beat on the ground instead of the vehicle structure. Long enough to ensure it beats on something and stops before whipping around and tearing stuff, but short enough to enable the end to travel a little and gain momentum (over 15 degress, if you can)
Quick action is indeed possible with the push button, I would say that is what made all my idle air relearn attempts successful.The00Dustin wrote:OP already got the thing loose, and I don't know enough to recommend the starter method, but I'm pretty sure "quick action" isn't an option with the push button and programming combination in mf 06 M45. It used to be possible to trip a starter with just a screwdriver, so I should imagine it would still be possible with some kind of jumper. So, in case anyone needs this thread in the future, is that still possible, and is it still safe for an engine? I ask because I would think this scenario (that I wouldn't want to perform regardless) would only need the starter to crank and don't actually need any other ignition systems going.EdBwoy wrote:On other ideas, I've used the starter bump method which is not usually my preference due to the risk to the crankshaft threads as mentioned above. A push button ignition means you've gotta have some quick action...
I haven't tried to cancel a start after starting it, so my experience is more anecdotal. I suppose it depends on your definition of "quick" amongst other things. While the idle air relearn procedure does require some timed patterns, I haven't performed it either, so I don't know whether or not the starter should/could be quickly engaged/disengaged during that procedure. I do know that pressing the buttons three times fast to kill the engine while moving doesn't take if the times are too fast, and I do know that I see noticeable delays in all electronic systems in the vehicle, however, if "quick" means seconds vs fractions, then my concerns are moot. As to damage, my concerns would be as follows:EdBwoy wrote:Quick action is indeed possible with the push button, I would say that is what made all my idle air relearn attempts successful.The00Dustin wrote:OP already got the thing loose, and I don't know enough to recommend the starter method, but I'm pretty sure "quick action" isn't an option with the push button and programming combination in mf 06 M45. It used to be possible to trip a starter with just a screwdriver, so I should imagine it would still be possible with some kind of jumper. So, in case anyone needs this thread in the future, is that still possible, and is it still safe for an engine? I ask because I would think this scenario (that I wouldn't want to perform regardless) would only need the starter to crank and don't actually need any other ignition systems going.
And you can also use a jumper, i suppose. The location of the starter makes it less ideal for me to squeeze in there to try and do it. I feel safer doing it from inside the vehicle.
As far as safety to the engine (regardless of method used), I cannot immediately think of any harm to it rather than possible damage to the threads. The aim is not to run the engine for a long time, just enough of a rotation for the bolt to break loose.
If the concern is turning a crankshaft with no fuel and spark, then consider that the first few moments of the starting process is actually just turning the crankshaft and if the sensor doesn't get any rotation, fuel isn't fed in nor are the plugs fired... or I could also compare it to push starting a manual car.
No wear on the front surface. Just the visible separate in the rubber section. Severe wear on the back side from the wobble in which you can see in the pic above. The belts are rubber and the balancer is steel so I wouldn't think there would ever be wear. The belt should disintegrate first.EdBwoy wrote:The starter is pretty torquey, and factor that with whatever the gear reduction is on the flywheel. The starter will be fine sonce the tooh profile between it and the flywheel ensures perfect engagement (ideally) . In my experience, if the starter doesn't turn it the first time, it tries 2 other times and just stops. I figured the ECM determines when to stop per button push so it doesn't overheat and cause other damage.
No damage to any sensors or timing (chain still keeps time) that I can think of.
OP, I somehow missed your other posts with the pictures. I would expect more wear on the pulley teeth since the belt is scrubbing around. You saw wear on the front surface as well?
Yes but really the washer part since that's what is holding on so hard.dTardis wrote:Glad you got it off. Did you heat the bolt directly?
Repair is holding up well. The bolt, seal, etc. all were not impacted from the heat required to remove it previously. I didn't use the impact to tighten completely I finished by hand.EdBwoy wrote: ↑Mon Jan 15, 2018 9:35 amHow is the repair holding up?
You said at some point the heat was enough to make the balancer smoke. I was concerned, but it seems the crank seal was not affected negatively at all, right?
Also, I wanted to take back my advice on using a belt to tighten the pulley. It's not the best way - the rubber could wear prematurely. Ask me how I know.
Did you just use the impact tool on the way back?