Struck out, No Fuel, No Spark, No ECU LED.... WhaHappen?

[Tech12]

There is the back ground: http://www.nicoclub.com/zeropo...97957

I have looked at all of my fuses and relays and Fusible links (maybe, not quite sure what they are, someone refresh me) and I still can't get the thing to start. It turns over great, and I can get the fuel pump to go on by bypassing the relay. Someone help me out, paying 2 month of insurance for a car you keep thinking you will fix tomorrow is starting to hurt. Thanks in advance-Lech

[Tech12]

Ok, Ok. So fusible links can be two diff things, right? Square fuse looking things in the fuse box and some kind of wires running from the pos terminal of the battery, right? That second bit I was un aware of. So I'm starting to think that is my problem and I need to know: If they connect to the pos side of the batt. where do they run to? Also, will it be pretty obvious if they are fubar?s13chris, you seem to be the first to post when a problem like this comes up, so I'm hoping you can help me out.

[s13sr20chris]

yeah, the plug-ins at the batt pos terminal are fusible links. they go from the batt pos to the power distribution blocks. if they feel like a regular wire tehn they are prob good. usually when they are bad they feel all squishy where they burnt up. no ecm led means one of three things1)no power to ecm2)no ground at ecm3)blown ecm

[JoeKansas]

I am semi-hijacking this post . This thread is right up my alley. Having about the same problems, except for the fuel pump portion. Is there supposed to be a visible light on the ecm itself- if it is getting power and/or is in good shape? And, where abouts is the gauge/dash is the check engine light at on the dash panel. I am not sure mine is lighting up- what does the icon look like. I may have some of the same problems Tech12 has........... and am going to have to watch this topic also.........

[JoeKansas]

I should have proof read that last post. I meant to ask "where at on the dash/gauge panel is the check engine lite located?" I am not sure it is lighting up- even when the key is first turned on.

[Tech12]

on the left, it is the second LED from the edge of the screen, so basically the closest to the middle of the left led series.

Your ecu is located next to your passengers right foot behind a panel. You can remove the panel by removing the two bolts that hold the ecu to the wall. You can then flip it around and located the ecu self diagnostic screw. Turn the screw and hold it for about 2-3 seconds, and the LED there will start blinking and give you error codes. Mine doesn't.

Good info here: http://ka24development.com/ecu_codes.html

[JoeKansas]

You are a fountain of information. This will give me something to look for so maybe I can detect the problem before it goes to the nissan man's shop! I will feel a lot better if I can find the problem instead of someone else. I really had no idea you could glean all this info from the check engine lite. And, reading through the "self diagnostic" link page you included, I realize I earlier in my searching the car that I found the "16 pin DLC" wiring harness (under the dash near the steering column) that you are supposed to connect a scan tool to. It would be handy to get one of those tools and use it instead of watching a dash lite blink! . Reading all that information sure made my day, now I don't feel.......

[Tech12]

http://www.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=85174

Go For it.

[JoeKansas]

On my vehicle- I got 5 trouble codes. These codes are from "troublecodes.net" To refresh you, this is an '89 sentra. I found no check engine lite on the dash with the gauges. With key on, ECM has two led's lit, Fuel pump will run, engine turns over, distributor rotor spins, coil and ignition module are ok (tried them on another car) -just no spark in my car.ECM was under passenger seat, not on kick panel. When finished I didn't clear trouble codes. I let the ecm run thru the codes a couple of times to be sure I got them all right. I am positive I didn't get any of them mixed up- but it sure would have been easy to mistake 12 and 21- with 21 being "ignition signal". Now, I am starting to doubt myself......but here they are.

12 -air flow meter/MAF sensor23 -idle switch off (on/off diagnosis)34 -knock sensor45 -injector leak51 -injector circuit

I don't recognize anything there that would keep me from getting ingition spark. But, as far as 12 and 23............where is the MAF sensor and does it only perform a funtion when the engine is running, and what would the idle switch do.I am going to post this under another thread, and maybe start a new one also, so more chances of it getting viewed and answered.

[Tech12]

^^^ MAF ^^^ (Mass Air Flow sensor) It sits between your air box and the rest of your intake piping. It's job is to mesure how much air your engine is sucking in so the ecu will know how much fuel to dump in.

Thats all I can really help you with. You'll most likely get more help with another topic.

ANYWAY, If anyone could do me a huge favor and take a picture of the fusible link attatched to the positive terminal, that would be fantastic. I tried looking over the spare harness I have out of a 93, but I don't see anything that would be obvious, although it does have some sort of red connector right next to the terminal (It didn't come with anything connected to these, so I'm kinda assuming that these are it, but, I dunno.) My 91 harness does not have that (the red connectors)... I don't think.

Main reason I need this is to prove to my father that this could be the problem, and the wire thing really does exist so He'll take me to my car so I can mess with it (he's kinda a prick) I also need it so I can quickly Ideantify it when I go down to my car. I'm so glad it died about 50 miles away from where I live

[JoeKansas]

Well, I don't have a camera or else I'd post a photo of what the "fusible link" they are refering to looks like. One these cars, by fusible link they mean a piece of ordinary looking electric wire- insulation and all- that has a predetermined melting point for the current carrying part of the wire-which is inside the insulation. You can't really see if the thing is bad, cause most times it could just be a mometary current spike that causes it to twink. It wouldn't necssarily burn the insulation off the "wire", so you can't see if it is bad. If whats on my car is whats on your car, right off of the positive battery cable clamp there is the heavy gauge cable that goes to the starter, and, on mine, there is also a plastic electrical wire socket with two spade lugs inside it. There should be a plug inserted there with a short length of 2 wires, those going to another socket, which connects to a pair of wires going to the wire loom. Sure is hard to explain. I tried to draw a picture and attach it, looks like caveman drawings

[Tech12]

Well... I feel like a tard. Problem solved. I went down with a multi meter and discovered I had power to all of my fueses and relays and what not, but that the essential ones were not recieving a ground signal to click over and activate. Realising that the ecu supplies this ground, i started combing over my engine bay in search of loose grounds. Jackpot. The ground near the rear ov the valve cover on the driveres side was loose as... something that is mighty loose. Tightened it down and.... Vroom! Sucess. Now I just have to take care of my ruptured power steering high pressure line (front... Hicas) and my suspension that sound like popcorn from all the clunking.

Thanks alot to all you guys that halped me out. I would have payed a fortune to get it towed and most likely at leaste another hundred buck to have some mechanic tighten down a bolt. And thanks JoeKansas for the enlightening drawing of the fusible link And other assistance (unfortunatly, in my 91 I don't have a nifty connector for the links. They are kind of intergrated into the terminal and positive wire, making replacing them a pain in the rear)

Thanks again guys.

[s13sr20chris]

hey joe,on your car the maf may be integrated with the throttle body. if its carbed the i would not think it even had one. also, none of those codes will hamper your ignition. the injector leak code is famous for tripping from a faulty maf.