well you still have hydraulic lifters not solid ones. the .1 displacement should not be an issue for the ECU but the compression will be, you will ne to retard timing, get a proper standalonebumblebtuna wrote:thx darius
cool, so in essence i have an rb26 short block?all i need is rb26 pistons, crank, rods, rb26 bearings, main studs/rod bolts and i'm good to go?!
does anyone have a clue if the stock ECU will compensate for the .1 liter difference... honestly by the time it's put together and in the car i should have enough for a Power FC but was just curious.
Modified by bumblebtuna at 12:10 PM 10/24/2007
i'm pretty sure NEO's had solid lifters.Adrian gt wrote:well you still have hydraulic lifters not solid ones. the .1 displacement should not be an issue for the ECU but the compression will be, you will ne to retard timing, get a proper standalone
definately aiming higher...guess i'll shell out for one when i get the block put together.Darius wrote:You could probably squeak by without a standalone if you were happy with the power level of the stroked motor, but I am assuming and hoping that you're aiming higher and, therefore, agreeing with adrian. Get a standalone.
i've heard of people wiring the rb26 power fc to the 25. as for lifters i don't know much about the neo to be honest.or if you shell out a few more you could go heltech and have multiple mapsbumblebtuna wrote:
i'm pretty sure NEO's had solid lifters.
definately aiming higher...guess i'll shell out for one when i get the block put together.
which Power FC should i get? the ER34 RB25 (NEO) Power FC is discontinued, but still sells over at Skylinesaustrailia for around $1100.
- OR -do i need the RB26 Power FC?
I'm 98% sure the Neo PFC is the one to get, as most of the calibrations are in the head??