stroker or no stroker

[nizmoguy]

i'm lookin to get in the 650 hp range with my sr, can this be possible without gettin the 2.2L stroker or will i have to get that. i just wanna know if it's worth it to buy the kit

[doridori23]

To run that much power more than once you will have to build the motor Top and bottom. The stock setup has only reliably run up to 500hp. Enjuku and Phase2 have logged more than a dozen 550 runs on a stock setup without blowing it up but noone has safely done this on the street. Multiple companies make diff stroker/bore kits it depends on what your application really. Do you want it for drag/dyno or for circuit racing? If taking it high in RPMs for an extended period of time (circuit) you do not wan to stroke as it will increase the already high piston speeds at 9000 RPM (building a head for 9000 reliably costs less than a grand) but you can bore it out and still get more displacement with safe cylinder speeds. If it going to be used for drag racing bore and stroke it to 2.35L as the runs are short and even revving to 10k (Mazworx can build a 10k head) with the stroker will be fine.

[redtop91]

Stability of the rotating assembly is lost with strokers, personally, I'd bore slightly and run a fully forged internal setup on a balanced and micropolished crankshaft. Cheaper and easily strong enough for your goals.

[doridori23]

Stability of the rotating assembly is lost with strokers, personally, I'd bore slightly and run a fully forged internal setup on a balanced and micropolished crankshaft. Cheaper and easily strong enough for your goals.

Whoever told you this is an idiot. The quality of any rebuild stroked/bored or both is almost entirely dependent on the machinist that performs the work. With properly sized bearings, properly gapped rings, true sleeves (straight), and right hone/gap on piston to sleeves you will have no stability or abnormal vibration. GM push-rod guys have been turning 350 ci (5.7L) engines into 427 (7.0L) for almost 40 years if it was a bad idea do you really think they would continue to do so after 40 years?

One thing that we don't have but would be a good idea is a Harmonic Balancer. The reason our SR20 does not have a harmonic balancer is due to the fact that we have an inline motor (no crank angle intersect) and a square bore (bore diameter is the same as the stroke). When you bore OR stroke the motor you change this (unless you get teh magic 2.35L bore/stroke combo) and need to get an ATI Super Dampener if you expect the motor to last under street conditions.

[redtop91]

That was an observation based off experience. Personal opinions aside I've seen strokers go wrong and no matter the precision of the machine work, it won't be OEM. That is all.