STRANGE THINGS HAPPENING

[ACK]

Ever since i pulled off the intake manifold to replace my injectors, i have been getting these lights on my dash!
Im sure this has been covered many times on the boards here, but thought i'd fresh it up again

check engine, light, hicas, brake and headlight lamp on ??

I fixed the knock sensor issues, code was 55.
Hicas, i don't know why its on. I have electronic system (hicas) so fluid doesn't alter this.
Brake light,,,, no bulbs are out, fluid is topped off
Headlamp/light lamp is on... again, all bulbs and lights working properly.

The check engine light came on again, today after about 40 minutes of normal freeway driving... i thought OBD II was pita... but i guess obd I is the same....lol... love the car however!

oh my boost gauge us out as well. I have checked fuses, ALL vacuum lines are new silicone. i cleaned and check the plug to the boost gauge sensor and its good, now i did however tap a T into the driver side side plenum where the booster hose is , there is another nipple where i believe its connected to the blow off valve. This is pressure isnt it ???

[nissanfreak12]

Normally when the lights on the dash light up, it usually means the alternator is either going or the ground doesn't have a good connection. I know you only messed with the plenum, but it is possible you could have moved the wires for the battery and alt and somehow broke the ground wire to the alt. Also make sure to check the grounds to the plenum, one by the injectors, #5 cylinder, and #6 cylinder. All will be by the firewall.

[Ace2cool]

That was what my initial suggestion was going to be, but the Headlamp light doesn't come on with a bad ground/alternator. It's usually the airbag light, HICAS light, and the battery light, at least when I've had electrical issues.

Also moving this to tech. I'll leave the shadow here for views.

[ACK]

Thank you gentlemen, i will double check it again. I may have missed something or dint tighten down a nut/bolt..

Thank you

[ACK]

ps, would you guys know if this is correct or not?

I shortened the OEM boost meter solenoid vacuum hose, by T-ing to the driver side side plenum nipple where the factory by pass/blow off valve port is. Is this a vacuum only line? or is it a boost line ? i hope i didn't confuse you by this description. Because im thinking if this is not a boost signal port, maybe this would be the reason why my boost gauge is stuck on -14 ( left of the 0 ) .

[nissanfreak12]

All nipples that are on the plenum are vacuum/boost sources. If your feeding the gauge, its ok to T it from another vacuum/boost source. If your gauge is not functioning, it could be the solenoid that feeds the gauge or the gauge is actually broken, which is common. Try an aftermarket gauge, you will get better readings from that than the factory gauge.

Vacuum is when you are not building pressure in the system, boost is when the turbos build pressure in the system, the dirty version. Vacuum and boost will show at the same source, just dependent of what the engine/turbo are doing, throttle position, rpms, etc....

[ACK]

k great, and yes i do understand the functions, however all this happened after the plenum pull/injector replacement...

its strange, how it all went out at the same time...and its interesting once the key is in the ignition an i switch it to position II before starting the engine, i can see a faint movement on the boost gauge... i wonder what caused this.
I will check the grounds again.

Is there a way to tell if the boost sensor for the gauge is good? i did use a multimeter to test the wiring harness leading to the boost sensor and to my knowledge there is continuity ... i like to keep the original boost gauge function, as i will upgrade a pillar mount soon . Thanks again for your input

[ACK]

here we are again, now im getting a code 13 and it keeps blowing the fuse under the hood box, marked "ignition control" 10 amp, i replaced 3 and i soon as i turn on the ignition it blows, car starts, but i dont know why im getting this.

i cleaned the coolant temp connection and the fan is on, even when car is cold.....

im wondering if the ignition control fuse keeps going out, maybe this is whats throwing the lights and codes ...

i got code 34 again after the replacement and 32...

This all happened after i replaced the injectors, i have checked the grounding they all look good and tight,
since i bought the car i noticed the big copper ground piece that bolts to the firewall from the Negative battery pole is not connected, because the negative wire is short ( wrong battery). Again this might be causing all these issues???

[Ace2cool]

Yes, it could. That's the main ground. The only other ground you have right now is on the transmission bellhousing. I'm not saying it's going to fix ALL the issues, but that is something that does need to be addressed.

[ACK]

ok, cool, i will def. fix it, its been like that since i bought the car. i wish i knew how to check shorts.

[ACK]

K , so today, i searched the entire engine bar, from above and under, i replaced the negative cable and bolted the big copper ground eyelet to the firewall, still blowing the ignition control fuse , i was about to call it a day , then i just unplugged the newly replaced and relocated knock sensor harness, and there it was voila!!! HICAS, Brake< headlamp warning lights all dissipated and mostly my boost gauge is working now. took the baby for a spin, nice big boost im happy, i drove around and noticed the check engine light came on again!!!! and low boost like the limp mode feel, again, my idle was high around 1700 rpm's. i have a feeling the TPS is not properly set, as i have been having difficulty doing this procedure.

Oh and the reason my fan would stay on, and add more dilemma to the Christmas dash lights, was that fan switch harness, one of the little pins was not fulling contacting the sensor. fixed that right away.

I will check the codes at sunlight. cheers and Happy new year .

[Ace2cool]

Best advice I can give you on setting the TPS is to use alligator clips and sewing needles pressed into the wires. don't loosen the bolts up enough to free rotate, just enough so that you can use something like a screwdriver and tap it into place.

Progress is progress though.

[ACK]

Yes. thank you.