im sorry this is such a long read but i really need some help.
ok, i have a sr swapped 240sx (i did not perform the swap) with a few bolt-ons. i did a wiretuck by extending the wires to the injectors, the throttle position sensor, intake air temp. sensor, the camshaft angle sensor and the radiator temp sensor.
all the arrows point to places i extended wires. i used 16 gauge wire and all the connections are soldered and taped. the engine looks a bit messy since ive been taking apart my wiring to check for errors.
after my wiring the car started fine but a few days later it wouldnt start when the engine was hot. i had to wait at least 30min to start it after running. then i changed the oil and the oil filter using a greddy air filter and casterol syntec 5w-30 oil. now it wont start at all, it cranks but doesnt turn over.
i checked the spark plugs and they arent firing. i also checked the ECU and it gave me 55 - Other Malfunction. CONSULT Terminal Required. if i bought a USB consult ord and some software would it be able to tell me a bit more about my problem?
a friend of mine had the sameish problem and he replaced the CAS and it fixed it. i dont want to shell out $200 if i dont need to though, can i make sure my CAS is broken somehow?
any suggestions, ideas or insight would help greatly.
strange problem, SR20 wont start. *HELP*
Re: strange problem, SR20 wont start. *HELP* (.jrmyrmx)
this sucks. im sorry
are your grounds hooked up well?
... borrow his CAS
are your grounds hooked up well?
... borrow his CAS
Re: strange problem, SR20 wont start. *HELP* (.jrmyrmx)
Sounds like the CAS is probably your culprit - If the CAS isn't working correctly you will not have proper fuel delivery or spark advance - causing the car not to start.
Do this to check your CAS: 1st check to make sure the 7.5A fuse did not blow for the ECM. If ok, check for power at the CAS B/W wire (pin # 5). If no good - Check the ECCS relay is working properly. If relay ok - check the resistence of the B/W wire from the relay to the CAS. It should be below .5ohms. If there is no resistence reading the wire should be inspected for an open.If power to CAS ok - check the black wire (pin # 6) has a good ground. If not fix the ground issue.The last 2 white and black wires are ECM inputs and can only be checked for continuity. Do the by checking the resistence of both wires - should be below .5ohms.
If all the circuits check out ok, the CAS is probably toast. Hope this helps
Colors and number of wires may not be acurate due to me using an S14 manual. If you need more help do not hesitate to ask me.
Eric - Varacity Automotive
Do this to check your CAS: 1st check to make sure the 7.5A fuse did not blow for the ECM. If ok, check for power at the CAS B/W wire (pin # 5). If no good - Check the ECCS relay is working properly. If relay ok - check the resistence of the B/W wire from the relay to the CAS. It should be below .5ohms. If there is no resistence reading the wire should be inspected for an open.If power to CAS ok - check the black wire (pin # 6) has a good ground. If not fix the ground issue.The last 2 white and black wires are ECM inputs and can only be checked for continuity. Do the by checking the resistence of both wires - should be below .5ohms.
If all the circuits check out ok, the CAS is probably toast. Hope this helps
Colors and number of wires may not be acurate due to me using an S14 manual. If you need more help do not hesitate to ask me.
Eric - Varacity Automotive
Re: (.jrmyrmx)
Im having the same problem, those are a lot of good suggestions.
Re: (Kalypso123)
i know a few people now with this problem haha.Kalypso123 wrote:Im having the same problem, those are a lot of good suggestions.
i bought a consult usb cord so i can better diagnose the problem and i foun a srce for a cheap CAS so i should be in good shape soon (fingers crossed)
Re: (.jrmyrmx)
I'll get back to you on this tomorrow.
Re: (.jrmyrmx)
My ecu isn't getting any current, so I cant read Diag codes..jrmyrmx wrote: i bought a consult usb cord so i can better diagnose the problem.
the car cranks but wont turn over, so I need to look at it more carefully and figure out whats going wrong.
hurry backVaracity wrote:I'll get back to you on this tomorrow.
Re: strange problem, SR20 wont start. *HELP* (.jrmyrmx)
Yes there is. Alright, best and easiest thing to do is to verify that you are getting spark to each spark plug. If you are getting spark to the plugs then the power transistor (igniter) is definitely working. If not, here is how you can test it:
Since the Q45 igniter had to be spliced in, the wire colors may differ but the pins should be the same. I haven't done this in a while so I'm no longer positive if this info holds true.
Checking the primary circuit:First, you want to make sure the 30A fuse for the ignition is not blown.Next verify you have voltage to pin 2 of each spark plug coil pack.Next verify you have ground at pin 1 of each coil pack.Next verify that the 4 wire connector to the igniter has voltage to all 4 pins. Next verify that the 5 wire connector is getting at least 5 volts at all the wires except the black one. Make sure that black one has a good ground.
All this verifies that the ecu and circuits are ok and supplying voltage.
Checking the igniter:Have both connectors plugged into the igniter and back probe all of the wires on the 4 wire connector with t-pins.Using a test, connect it to the positive battery post and have someone crank the engine. While the engine is cranking, touch the test light to each of the t-pins individually and verify that the test light flashes on and off.
If it flashes then the igniter is working properlyIf it doesn’t then the igniter isn’t working due to it being defective or due to the CAS or its wiring being bad.
Since the Q45 igniter had to be spliced in, the wire colors may differ but the pins should be the same. I haven't done this in a while so I'm no longer positive if this info holds true.
Checking the primary circuit:First, you want to make sure the 30A fuse for the ignition is not blown.Next verify you have voltage to pin 2 of each spark plug coil pack.Next verify you have ground at pin 1 of each coil pack.Next verify that the 4 wire connector to the igniter has voltage to all 4 pins. Next verify that the 5 wire connector is getting at least 5 volts at all the wires except the black one. Make sure that black one has a good ground.
All this verifies that the ecu and circuits are ok and supplying voltage.
Checking the igniter:Have both connectors plugged into the igniter and back probe all of the wires on the 4 wire connector with t-pins.Using a test, connect it to the positive battery post and have someone crank the engine. While the engine is cranking, touch the test light to each of the t-pins individually and verify that the test light flashes on and off.
If it flashes then the igniter is working properlyIf it doesn’t then the igniter isn’t working due to it being defective or due to the CAS or its wiring being bad.