After applying belt dressing on the power steering belt to quieten a reoccurring belt squeal I decided to replace all belts. The belts looked to be in good condition but I bought new belts then removed the front passenger wheel and started replacement work. In the process of replacing the belt, I noticed the crankshaft pulley was actually rubbing against the power steering belt. What the heck?
I took my hand and pulled the crankshaft pulley apart and somewhere in my memory though about the Maxima/I30 crankshaft pulley separation problem. The crankshaft pulley had separated from the harmonic balancer and drifted back against the power steering belt. Yes dreaded crankshaft pulley separation was happening to me.
It looks like I can get a new OEM pulley for $254.81 that is $103.96 off the list price of $358.77 I found an aftermarket version for about $198 but for the small money difference I will stick with OEM.
Here's a thread about the problem.
post6219014.html?hilit=crankshaft%20pulley#p6219014
Here's a video I found to demonstrate the problem.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7lXTdZMc ... re=related[/youtube]
[4th Gen] Strange Power Steering Belt Noise
-
Kompresshun
- Administrator
- Posts: 3633
- Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 7:41 am
- Car: 2020 Nissan Pathfinder SV 4x4, 2017 Ford F150 4x4 SuperCab 3.5L Ecoboost/10AT, 2005 Nissan Pathfinder SE Offroad 5AT
- Location: Louisville, KY
- Contact:
Re: [4th Gen] Strange Power Steering Belt Noise
Ugh. Yeah I hope I don't face this one anytime soon. I've already had enough costly and difficult repairs for a bit.
I wasn't aware of this issue though, so it's a good reminder to give it a check every once in a while from the sound of it.
I wasn't aware of this issue though, so it's a good reminder to give it a check every once in a while from the sound of it.
Re: [4th Gen] Strange Power Steering Belt Noise
Friday night I changed the crankshaft and front main seal in about an hour. That was one EASY job. Just remove the belts, unplug the fuel pump fuse, set a 30 to 36 inch breaker bar toward the front of the car approximately 1 inch off the floor then tap the starter to break loose the crankshaft pulley bolt.
Since the old pulley had separated, just remove the outer pulley ring before pulling the main crankshaft pulley and harmonic balancer away from the crankshaft. I was able wiggle the old pulley and balancer out by hand without using my puller.
The old main seal popped right out with a screw driver. With a light coating of dielectric grease I was able to use my thumbs to push in the new seal. I used some 800 grit then 1200 grit sandpaper to polish the pulley surface area that makes contact with the front main seal so it would be nice and smooth from the start.
The crankshaft pulley bolt uses a socket I already had in my tool box. If I recall correctly it is a 19mm. So I didn't need to rent any special sockets for removing the crankshaft pulley. A screwdriver can be inserted between the crankshaft pulley spokes to lock the pulley for applying the recommended "torque up" procedure from the FSM.
Since the old pulley had separated, just remove the outer pulley ring before pulling the main crankshaft pulley and harmonic balancer away from the crankshaft. I was able wiggle the old pulley and balancer out by hand without using my puller.
The old main seal popped right out with a screw driver. With a light coating of dielectric grease I was able to use my thumbs to push in the new seal. I used some 800 grit then 1200 grit sandpaper to polish the pulley surface area that makes contact with the front main seal so it would be nice and smooth from the start.
The crankshaft pulley bolt uses a socket I already had in my tool box. If I recall correctly it is a 19mm. So I didn't need to rent any special sockets for removing the crankshaft pulley. A screwdriver can be inserted between the crankshaft pulley spokes to lock the pulley for applying the recommended "torque up" procedure from the FSM.