Strange overheating. Help greatly appreciated!

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calazon
Posts: 34
Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 12:25 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx

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okee dokeee haha, where to start.

Ok, so my rad was leaking a bit, so I bought a Koyo copper one that was recomended by a test I read for this engine, also I got a new dual fan setup. I installed the new radiator along with a Blitz high PSI rad cap. A few days later, I noticed that my temperature gauage went all the way to the top. At first I thought that my temp gauge might be messed because when I would move the heater switch in the interior the gauge would instantly move accordingly. I'm fairly sure that the gauge is accurate though.

Over the next couple of days this peak in temperature happened a few times, and I would have to pull over and let it cool down before going again (15-30 mins) On Friday night I was driving and the temperature peaked, I pulled over, but it only took a minute to cool down. I started to go again, and a few minutes later it started to peak and then cold air started to come from the vents, no heat at all. It's safe to assume that at this point there is a block somewhere.

I installed a new thermostat just to make sure, after doing so the problem still occured. Today I took the lines off of the heater core; the top line was dry and filthy, the bottom line was clean and had coolant coming out, so I thought a little more that there is a blockage. I bypassed the heater core to test it. The problem still occurs now.

I'm not sure what to do now, I thought that doing these things would solve the problem. I am going to pick up a regular rad cap tomorrow, just to make sure. Maybe the pressure is too high? I blew my last engine with the old radiator and this heater core, perhaps a lot of junk is in the system and creating a blockage?

If anyone has any advice or some good troubleshooting tips or guidance for me, I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks a lot!

Aaron


bruinbear714
Posts: 1159
Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2002 9:58 pm
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calazon wrote:okee dokeee haha, where to start.

Ok, so my rad was leaking a bit, so I bought a Koyo copper one that was recomended by a test I read for this engine, also I got a new dual fan setup. I installed the new radiator along with a Blitz high PSI rad cap. A few days later, I noticed that my temperature gauage went all the way to the top. At first I thought that my temp gauge might be messed because when I would move the heater switch in the interior the gauge would instantly move accordingly. I'm fairly sure that the gauge is accurate though.

Over the next couple of days this peak in temperature happened a few times, and I would have to pull over and let it cool down before going again (15-30 mins) On Friday night I was driving and the temperature peaked, I pulled over, but it only took a minute to cool down. I started to go again, and a few minutes later it started to peak and then cold air started to come from the vents, no heat at all. It's safe to assume that at this point there is a block somewhere.

I installed a new thermostat just to make sure, after doing so the problem still occured. Today I took the lines off of the heater core; the top line was dry and filthy, the bottom line was clean and had coolant coming out, so I thought a little more that there is a blockage. I bypassed the heater core to test it. The problem still occurs now.

I'm not sure what to do now, I thought that doing these things would solve the problem. I am going to pick up a regular rad cap tomorrow, just to make sure. Maybe the pressure is too high? I blew my last engine with the old radiator and this heater core, perhaps a lot of junk is in the system and creating a blockage?

If anyone has any advice or some good troubleshooting tips or guidance for me, I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks a lot!

Aaron
Looks like you might have air trapped in the system.

Your fans are turning on, right?

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vocationalzero
Posts: 870
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:44 pm
Car: 92 Too For Dee
87 BMW 635 CSi
06 Dodge Dakota Night Runner Edition
06 Nissan Sentra S
Location: Pfllugerville, Tx

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Did you flush it when you put in the new radiator? Cause there is gonna be left over coolant and stuff in the block. That's what I would do, do a good flush on it and see if anything comes out. And why not get the aluminum core rad instead of the copper one?

nzmoman
Posts: 2302
Joined: Mon May 22, 2006 2:27 pm
Car: 240sx 2 of em' and always lookin for more

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bleed the air out. If you don't have leaks and you have a completely dry hose then do this:

fill it up let it run with the cap off and make sure it bubbles. As it bubbles it will lower the level. Keep it topped off. If it does not bubble then make sure it is flowing. If it does not flow then look for a new water pump, and try again.
vocationalzero wrote:Did you flush it when you put in the new radiator? Cause there is gonna be left over coolant and stuff in the block. That's what I would do, do a good flush on it and see if anything comes out. And why not get the aluminum core rad instead of the copper one?
at speeds copper absorbs more heat from the coolant and can get rid of more. But at lower speeds it will get heat soaked faster. I run a copper unit, and my car runs cooler at 50-60mph than it did with the aluminum, but my fans cut on pretty quick if I go to idling.

User avatar
calazon
Posts: 34
Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 12:25 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx

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Yea, my fans are turning on for sure, they have no effect on the temperature though. When I put the rad in, it was done at my buddies shop, he used some thing to suck all the air out then fill it with coolant.


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