Strange elctical problem

[kay8888]

Hi Guys,
I am having some problems with the Zed and have searched quite a bit but haven't found a solution so I thought I make a post and figure it out. If there is another post somewhere of this issue, please let me know.

I recently put a rebuilt alternator in the car along with some new grounds because the previous grounds were connected to the manifolds and i was told by the mechanic that i should change them so he changed the grounds along with the alternator/starter ground.

The other day i was driving the car at night and it started running a bit rough and shortly after, the HIDs went off. High beams and fog lights are working fine. Soon, the car just stalled and died and the Anti-lock light also lit up. When i tried starting the car, it would crank once and then make ticking sounds and won't start. I kept trying and the car won't start but 5-10 minutes later it started and i quickly drove it home. When i was pulling in, the car stalled again and the ANTI-LOCK light came up again. I boosted the car and it started first time. I didn't drive the car as it was getting parked for winter anyways. I checked the codes and was getting code 34 ( when i looked at the engine bay, i saw that the det.sensor wasn't even connected from i dont even know when and never got code 34). So i connected it, cleared the codes and started the car again. Still got code 34 and now i got code 42 as well. I cleaned the connected for det.sensor and also the fuel pressure sensor and reset the codes and started the car again and same thing.
One thing i noticed was when the car is idling and i rev it, the dash lights brighten up. They don't dim down when i let go of the throttle. The HIDs are still off.

I spoke to a different mechanic and he said that there is grounding problem somewhere so I am wondering maybe the guy who did the ground with the alternator/starter and other grounds in the engine bay screwed something up?
I also searched only and saw that it may be the rebuilt alternator's voltage regulator?

When the car stalled and i started it again, i connected the meter to test voltage across the batter, when i would rev the car, the voltage would keep increasing instead of staying a specific spot.

Anybody experienced this? or could help me with this? I would really appreciate it. Car is currently parked for winter in the garage so i can open things up and look around. The car has been starting in first try ever since. Idles fine, but as soon as i rev it, the lights brighten up and the car runs a little rough.

Thanks

[t.mcginley.jr]

Does the battery hold charge? It should hold 12 - 12.6 Volts and around 14V when idling. A faulty alternator will cause all kinds of weird electrical issues, including the dash warning lights going off.

[kay8888]

the alternator was rebuilt and just put in 2 weeks ago, but i have a strange feeling it might be it as i have read on a few forums that aftermarket rebuilt alternators are junk. I am not getting any warning lights. I was getting the flickering battery light and the ABS light a while ago and that's when i decided to rebuild the alternator. I drove the car with the new alternator for a week or so with no warning lights before this happened. Today i connected my battery charger to the battery and it was showing "LOW" on the screen so i charged the battery, but that could've been from the time when i had the dieing alternator? i never re=charged the battery after the new alternator install.
I also saw that my det. sensor connector wasn't even connected from I don't even know when and i never got the code 34. I have checked the codes a few times last few months. Now it is connected.
Also, i found out that the fuel rail wasn't grounded as well so i fixed that too. Code 42 is now gone. Code 34 is still there. How would I check if the battery is holding a charge? I don't drive the car as it is parked for winter.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Get a voltmeter or multimeter and check the voltage when the car is just sitting there off. It should hold around 12 volts, if it goes below 12 then the battery is no good. Rebuilt alternators aren't all bad, depends on who rebuilt it. For example, a Bosch remanufactured alternator will be way better than one rebuilt by some mechanic

[kay8888]

ok so i tested the battery with the car off It is showing me 12.7 volts. But when i run the car with no accessories on, it read 12.20v and with the headlights, heat, fog lights on, it reads 11.83v. Once i rev the car and the lights brighter, it read 14.9v and with the accesories off after i revved the car, it read 15.2 volts

for the det. sensor, i measured the ohms and the connector with one wire disconnected is giving me .563 ohms. But the other connector is not giving me .000 reading?

[t.mcginley.jr]

At idle your alternator should still be charging your battery and read around 14V, so something is wrong with yours.

As for the det. sensor it sounds like either the sensor is bad or the connector.

[kay8888]

it seems like the system is charging after i rev once because thats when the voltage gets normal.

Also for the det. sensor, i found out that the ecu side connector of vtc was connected to the det. sensor plug. They were switched. So now i have the vtc connected properly. I have the det. sensor connector located, but i can't find a free plug which is the ecu connector for the det. sensor

[kay8888]

checked the codes...getting code 55. so they were switched. but now the det. sensor is not connected to the ecu

[t.mcginley.jr]

There should be a connector that plugs into the det. sensor and then into the engine wiring harness, not directly to the ECU