Stop Lamp Inoperative

[Rmay]

A couple of weeks ago I started getting an intermitant "Stop Lamp Inoperative" message. Found that I indeed had a blown bulb, which I replaced. But now the "Stop Lamp Inoperative" message stays on. (It never went off when I changed the bulb.) I've checked all the bulbs in all three brake lamps, and I've checked the fuses, both in the cabin and under the hood. All good. Anyone know what might be up?

[PalmerWMD]

Rmay,

Did you replace with OEM bulbs from dealer or "as OEM" from auto parts store?

Fred..

[landtodd]

Sylvania "extended life" are a good alternative to the $6 bulbs from the dealer. Much higher quality than most anything else you can find.

[911/Q45]

Check the Phillips screws that attach the wires to the bulb sockets for the taillights. If they are even a little loose they can trigger the brake light inoperative sensor.

[Professor_Mike]

Have you checked the bulb sockets? The Q has a habit of melting the contacts.

[Rmay]

OK, here is an update on my "stop lamp inoperative" problem.

1. Discovered that I did have a bad bulb, one, although lighting up, had a crack. Also the contacts on the bulbs were kind of mucky.

2. So, it being late in the day, I replaced all the bulbs with Wagner bulbs from the local parts store. 3. Measured resistance on the old (Toshiba) and new bulbs. On the old the readings were 2.3/0.8 on the new bulds 2.7/0.8.

4. Next, pulled things apart in the trunk and got to the stop lamp sensor. Put a meter on it as per instruction in the service manual p. EL-39. With engine running got reading of about 7.5v with foot off the peddle, about .64 with foot on. Same readings with a bulb removed from one of the sockets,

5. Checked the housings carefully. Tightened screws holding on the metal bulb holders to the plastic. Checked contacts to see if any visual shorts. Cleaned contacts.

6. Put everything back together, and . . . still have "Stop Lamp Inoperative."

7. So. a) can there be a problem with the difference in the bulbs; or b) is the sensor bad; or c) something else.

[AZQ45]

Based on my experience, and I am not kidding, you need to use ALL OEM bulbs in the system or you will continue to have that error displayed. I know it sounds ridiculous and that 'a bulb should be a bulb', but with this car that is not the case.

Order the bulbs from Scottsdale Infiniti...they are not expensive and they come in nifty little Nissan boxes. If you walk in to you local dealer, they will cost you $4, $5 or $6 each. If that does not work, get new sub-assemblies. There are about $15 a pop from Joe T.

I went through the EXACT same thing you are and everything failed until I did what I described above. Others have posted similar stories as well.

This could be the worlds pickiest car, but it sure sounds nice at 6k RPM with the windows down.

[greg_atlanta]

I went through the EXACT same thing you are and everything failed until I did what I described above. Others have posted similar stories as well.

I agree.

All OEM bulbs, clean the bulb sockets too. If it still doesn't work, replace the white subassemblies too.

If not, the error message will haunt you FOREVER!!! :firedevil

(we've all been through this at least once, welcome to the club)

[Q451990]

I'd just order the new socket assemblies at the same time. They're about $15 each, and I bet your problem is somewhere in the assemblies. When it's cheap, and you're dealing with a known issue, sometimes it's good to throw parts at a problem.

Heath

[Rmay]

OK, all you Infiniti gurus out there . . .

I believe!! . . . I believe!! . . . I believe!!!!

Went over the local dealer, got all new OEM bulbs, and yes, yes, yes, the "Stop Lamp Inoperative" warning went off.

And, guess what, the dealer (Joe McPherson in Tustin, Ca.) gave me the bulbs, gratis. (Well, given how much I've opened up my wallet for them, it's the least they could do.)

[magus_blackomen]

I threw in all new Sylvannia LL's and my "Stop Lamp Inoperative" message went away. The upper stop lamp bulbs were nicely blackened and I suppose the only ones showing wear but since the trunk was already open I changed them all. Now, onto new pads/rotors and I'll see what it has to say when it can't say"Brake pads worn."

Oh yeah, thanks for the bulb info, you guys rock

[squeefoo]

Wow ! Good job finding this old thread! I found if you ohm the "good/stock" old bulbs in the back and check them against Sylvania LL's they're the same ohm's.

[maxnix]

Wow ! Good job finding this old thread! I found if you ohm the "good/stock" old bulbs in the back and check them against Sylvania LL's they're the same ohm's.

They are the only acceptable substitute.

And good searching guys. 99% of the questions have been answered before, so do your best to look and read.