those are the same as the Z32.Q45denver wrote:Joe,
Do you sell rear rotors for a 1992 Skyline GTS?
Thanks
How would I know if I have bad hubs? I just put a new set of Brembo rotors on about a year ago, and I can feel it wobble as I step on the brakes. It's a case of either a bad shipment of front rotors from Brembo or perhaps - according to what you eluded to above - warped hubs causing the rotors to wear out quickly. What are the possibilities?Q45tech wrote:Eventually you will need to replace warped hubs as they get out of spec or go to thicker shims 0.006".
The development of the on the car lathe was to mis true [wobble cut] the bolted down rotor so that it is in spec as mounted vs cutting a rotor perfect on an external lathe then bolting it on a warped hub and creating a QUICK warp in the rotor.
Sure is a waste to put quality rotors on a warped hub and ruin them quickly.
How would I know if I have bad hubs? I just put a new set of Brembo rotors on about a year ago, and I can feel it wobble as I step on the brakes. It's a case of either a bad shipment of front rotors from Brembo or perhaps - according to what you eluded to above - warped hubs causing the rotors to wear out quickly. What are the possibilities?Q45tech wrote:Eventually you will need to replace warped hubs as they get out of spec or go to thicker shims 0.006".
The development of the on the car lathe was to mis true [wobble cut] the bolted down rotor so that it is in spec as mounted vs cutting a rotor perfect on an external lathe then bolting it on a warped hub and creating a QUICK warp in the rotor.
Sure is a waste to put quality rotors on a warped hub and ruin them quickly.
Q45tech wrote:A perfectionist would use a metal grinder [progressively finer] to get the hub surface as close as possible then use a 0.003 shim to zero in the brand new rotor [no corrosion inside].
Eventually you will need to replace warped hubs as they get out of spec or go to thicker shims 0.006".
The development of the on the car lathe was to mis true [wobble cut] the bolted down rotor so that it is in spec as mounted vs cutting a rotor perfect on an external lathe then bolting it on a warped hub and creating a QUICK warp in the rotor.
Most won't pay for perfect brakes, kept in perfect condition.
Sure is a waste to put quality rotors on a warped hub and ruin them quickly.
You measure the hub runout with a dial gauge.SFBayQ45 wrote:How would I know if I have bad hubs?
If you have no hub problems...will this help prevent them?Q45tech wrote:Once you 4 get the rotors. Order BA-402-03 Brake Align variable shim [Q45 front] to mount between the hub and rotor to achieve perfection 0.0005" runout. Fixes hub problems.
You will double the rotor life due to reduced warping and thus fewer times at the trueing lathe.http://www.brakealign.com/pages/diagram ... pchart.pdf
When you spend this much a few more doesn't matter the gains will be dramatic.
When you have ZERO lateral runout the braking is as smooth as butter, better than any car you have ever driven!
It will help, but if a hub is out of specification, my experience is it is better just to replace it and the bearing.lino wrote:If you have no hub problems...will this help prevent them?
Im relatively sure they dont sell the hub seperately, at least from Joe... The bearing is press fit to the hub...maxnix wrote:It will help, but if a hub is out of specification, my experience is it is better just to replace it and the bearing.