Still no luck!!!! I am about to pull the PLUG .....

[SIL-LINE]

Guys seriously

No mater what i do this thing doesn't idle right ... it started boggin at 4k but i changed the fuel filter and it went away ( no lie the feeling was great seeing it pass 4k for the first time) but still not done yet the car stays idle at 2100 firm cold and between 19-21 warm. i have an extra AAC and IACV, same thing. used another computer and still no luck....

Oh and another thing when i change gears from 1st to 2nd during the shift it gives a slipping noise , not exactly the metal scraping one just a slipping (weee) noise , any suggestions on this

Can anyone help me out .............

[nizmo zilvia]

So what your saying is that your car dies on you after a while? Or are you having trouble reving? Maybe your igniter isn't good?

As for transmission problems did you install new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, etc? Or is it stock.

[SIL-LINE]

My car is giving me trouble idling .... it idles at 2100 rpm firm no matter what i do it stays there.......

im going into the transmission this weekend .....

[nizmo zilvia]

Since we dont have a clue what kinda RB (still rb20 like ur thingy says?)you have or any mods to it done we can't really help you out. Try to give us as much details as possible if you can. Something might trigger in someones head and may suggest something. Otherwise we are just as clueless as you are.

[nizmo zilvia]

OH! Also theres a idle control on the ecu. Try giving that a shot. I played around with mine and worked perfectly.

[Bwana]

A sizable vacuum leak will cause a m4d high idle like that. It would also effect your boost too...

[SIL-LINE]

Ok

i have an RB20 in a 240.

only thing other than stock is the RB25 turbo and a Greddy RS B.O.V. oh and FMIC .

i tried to do the ECU idle screw but it didnt do nothing it might have dropped 100 rpm, unless i did it wrong is there a cirtain way to do it ...

oh and my AAC the one that goes connected to the IM has a screw on it and it is completely closed right now and still it does not idle lower than 2000

i tried to reset the ECU, and i used a friends ECU and still the same (only problem is that i cant compare to my friends car its not ready yet )

[300Plus]

I would def check for a vac leak. I know bad or missing injector o rings will cause a big vac leak and HIGH idle. check to make sure the intake is bolting down all the way and the gasket is in good shape. I know how it feels to want to give up ... but don't it'll be worth it man!

[SIL-LINE]

i checked the manifold , its bolted on correctly and the gasket is good .

i will try to see if all the injectors have the o rings ...........

[Bluefire]

fiddle with the tps... you will probably have to adjust that to help bring the idle down. also check that the throttle screw is adjusted to the right spot

[SIL-LINE]

actually the idle screw is off right now and it still revs that high .

i took it off thinking it might be the tb

[Kansei240sx]

Check the intake manifold for leaks, get some starter fluid and start spraying it around the intake manifold and if the revs increase, its time to replace the gasket, or tigthen it down. Also, this may sound goofy, but check to see if your gas pedal is reaching all the way up and down and lubricate the pedal assembly and throttle body.

[Shocker]

make sure that BOV is recirced and not leaking as well. That will cause all kinds of idle issues.

[USMCgetsome]

my 1st rb25 had an old im gasket. caused all kinds of idle issues

[digzsublime]

Please do not use HIGHLY FLAMMABLE Starter fluid to check for vaccum leaks. While I know it doesn't happen very often. I have personally witnessed starter fluid igniting from hitting a hot exhaust manifold.

Was kinda funny cause my friend had no more eyebrows. But still not cool. It would be a little safer to go get some NON flammable brake parts cleaner.Be sure the can reads "NON FLAMMABLE" since some brands are flammable and some aren't.

Kansei, I know you're were trying to help. I'm not trying to be a d!ck. I'm just trying to help this poor guy keep his eyebrows!

[digzsublime]

Also, I had a problem similar to this with my RB20. Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which helped a little. My friend and I found that the Aux. Air Control Valve was stuck open. It's the little valve that bolts to the manifold just under the throttle body and a little towards the backside of the motor. It has a vaccum line that runs to the throttle body and also one that runs to the same vaccum line as the IACV.

I basically removed the hose that runs rom the Aux. Air Control Valve to the IACV and capped off the open line from the IACX and capped off the open end of the AACV. I will eventually get a new valve to replace it but for now it idles fine. Hope that helps.

[SIL-LINE]

yeah

i just got a new greddy rs B.O.V. so i dont think thats the prob

ill try the NON-FLAMABLE fluid to see if it works ill let you guys know how it goes this weekend

but if there are any more suggestions PLEASE DO NOT HESSITATE

thanks guys

[mestizo]

if u screwed the Idel screw on the throttle body all the way out and it idels at the same RPM you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

[Cpt_Impossible]

I dunno if you have tried this, but there is an idle control thingy under the fuel rail. It has a blue plug I think. Anyway, there is a spring on it that slips off sometimes and causes the car to idle super high. Mine idled at 2k until I found that. All you have to do it take it off, slip the spring back in place and clean it out and replace it.

[Cpt_Impossible]

It's called the "air regulator" It is a valve controlled by a spring stretched across but the spring sometimes slips off its peg on one end.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.c...&st=0

Here is a DIY to check and fix that

[Cpt_Impossible]

and just for those who come upon this thread in desperation, heres the guide to cleaning the AAC valve...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.c...pring

[Kansei240sx]

Please do not use HIGHLY FLAMMABLE Starter fluid to check for vaccum leaks. While I know it doesn't happen very often. I have personally witnessed starter fluid igniting from hitting a hot exhaust manifold.

Was kinda funny cause my friend had no more eyebrows. But still not cool. It would be a little safer to go get some NON flammable brake parts cleaner.Be sure the can reads "NON FLAMMABLE" since some brands are flammable and some aren't.

Kansei, I know you're were trying to help. I'm not trying to be a d!ck. I'm just trying to help this poor guy keep his eyebrows!

SCREW HIS EYEBROWS! YOU DONT NEED THEM TO DRIVE A CAR!!!

LOL.... im jfwy. Good tip though.

[SIL-LINE]

ok guys

i unplugged the AAC (on back of the I M ) usually a brown plug, it died, so i upped the idle screw on the TB and started her (with the AAC unplugged )she idles perfect. i just cant drive her cuz when i rev real high and let it go it dies on the way down ....

SO now we know its not a vacum leak and the gasket and rings are fine so do you guys think its the wiring .........

we are almost there guys just a lil more suggestions

[Cpt_Impossible]

Try what I told you, the air regulator thingy... even if it isnt the culprit, it probably needs to be cleaned anyway.

[SIL-LINE]

yeah ive tried that

and i borrowed my friends , its not the culrpit,

i did clean it, it needed that.

hey do you guys know where that plug leads to on the ecu im thinking of either trying to fix it or ill send it again to the guy that did the wiring.

[mestizo]

ok guys

i unplugged the AAC (on back of the I M ) usually a brown plug, it died, so i upped the idle screw on the TB and started her (with the AAC unplugged )she idles perfect. i just cant drive her cuz when i rev real high and let it go it dies on the way down ....

SO now we know its not a vacum leak and the gasket and rings are fine so do you guys think its the wiring .........

we are almost there guys just a lil more suggestions

Um yes it is a vacuum leak what do you think the AAC does? It is supossed to be a controlled amount of air at vertian times, but obviously in your case it's not working properly, so again its letting in too much air when it's not supossed to.

[SIL-LINE]

but

the aac has a screw that is attached to it, it is closed ..

and shouldnt the vacuum leak still happen weather the aac is disconnected or not ........

[mestizo]

but

the aac has a screw that is attached to it, it is closed ..

and shouldnt the vacuum leak still happen weather the aac is disconnected or not ........

I dont know whether its normally open or closed when the car is off, so if its normally wide open when it's off and the wiring harness does not provide the right signal for whatever reason, then it would be open all the time giving more air to the engine all the time. I would bust out the FSM and start doing some continuity tests on the wiring with a multi meter and also check to see if everything is getting the right signal/voltage/resistance/impedance.