Working on the chap requires a little more though and a little more work that just throwing money at the problem.
I like to group things together when looking at mods. Here's what I see as a good starting point to go cheap:
Letting it breath: Intake (don't buy a kit, make one, works just as well, and if possible cold intake.) Header. If you are good woking problems out you MAY want to think about a pacesetter (God forbid, someone reccommending a pacesetter). You will have to strip the cheap pain and repaint it, sand it, and do a mild port (smothing). The install will be a slight b**ch too. But it will save you $200. Kill a weekend though.And an exahust. Too many options to discuss here.
Rotating Mass:Replace your pully. Asp makes one on the cheap. I would say that it is worth the $120.Flywheel: Firdanza a lightened one for about $300. A noticable diffrence in low gears. Do the clutch right now too.Loose the clutch fan. Install a real water temp gauge to make sure everything is going ok.(Loosing rotating mass has a much more dramatic effect the lower the gear that you are in. I have a friend with a FC RX7, and were at about the same power to weight ratio, and similar enough gearing. He doesn't stand a chance at a stoplight race, but I don't stand a chance at 100+mph going uphill)
Now you can think about ECU upgrades (if you go cheap and KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING you can advance the timing.)
Also check out
http://www.gude.com He'll re-do a KA head/intake manifold/cams/tb for 1750. Expect to gain 40-50 at the wheels. Unconfirmed there, that's what they told me when I called though.
Have fun