still having a clutch problem

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
Jfob
Posts: 77
Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:06 pm
Car: 91 Toyota Pickup

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clutch on my 93 240sx is not properly workingi installed the new clutchi got them in, and it worked but pedal was real soft so i thought i would bleed itthen slave's bleed pipe broke cuz it was so old and rustythats all the problem started...i got the new slave, and tried bleeding, and pedal never fully depressedand then i got rebuilt master and still no good.then i find that i should remove the damper box to get a good bleeding.so i did by just bending the stock hardline into tube from slave.i bleed the system, and i still cant get the pedal to fully come back.i can get the gear in and drive with this condition but pedal is really badand i dont even know if fully engaged with flywheel when i lift my foot off.clutch pedal is really sensitive so its hard to drive too.i dont see any leaks.i dont know what to do.i have to drive to work but i really dont want to get stuck somewhere or make things worse by driving when its not working wellsince i cant find any leaks, i shouldnt need to replace the old linesbut i might just get the stainless steel lines anyways

help me please!


Jfob
Posts: 77
Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:06 pm
Car: 91 Toyota Pickup

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i am quite sure that my pedal is adjusted right but want to make sure i did it right.master's shaft is pulled out to max and the length is adjusted so that when its pulld out max, pedal is fully depressed.

i am pretty sure both hardline and tube on the slave are not leaking.i dont know if my rebuilt master or slave from autozone is working properly...is there any way i can check the functionality?

Jfob
Posts: 77
Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 9:06 pm
Car: 91 Toyota Pickup

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I DONT KNOW IF CLUTCH FORK IS BAD AT ALL?FORK RETURNES WHEN NO PRESSURE IS APPLIED THOUGH

WHAT DOES THOSE RACING CLUTCH FORK PIVOT DO?

irocknrol2
Posts: 152
Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 3:37 am
Car: 1991 240sx Hatch/1993 240sx Coupe

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Jfob wrote:master's shaft is pulled out to max and the length is adjusted so that when its pulld out max, pedal is fully depressed.
What you are saying is backwards. When the pedal is fully depressed, the plunger should be in on the master cylinder.

To check to see if the slave cylinder is working properly, have someone depress the clutch pedal while you look under the car and observe the operation of the slave cylinder rod. You should see the rod move.

If the clutch is not fully engaged, it will be slipping and or chattering pretty badly.

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KFL
Posts: 656
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 5:57 am
Car: S14
Contact:

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1.How exactly are you bleeding the clutch??

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rogoman
Posts: 848
Joined: Fri Feb 17, 2006 5:44 pm
Car: 1991 240SX FB
2012 Altima 2.5 S

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Here's how you adjust the clutch pedal free play:The free play should be 1.0 - 3.0 mm (0.039 - 0.118 in). Hold a ruler against the floor and up to the top of the pedal pad. Take a reading on the ruler at the pedal pad in the resting position. Now push on the pedal pad very gently until resistance is felt; at this point take the new reading on the ruler. Subtracting the two readings will give you the free play spec. To adjust the clutch pedal free play, adjust the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder which is located under the dash at the top of the pedal assembly. The pushrod has a locknut which must be loosened. Now the pushrod can be adjusted. Also make sure the actual pedal pad height from the floor is between 186 - 196 mm (7.32 - 7.71 in). It can be adjusted with the pedal stopper lock nut.

Here's how to bleed the hydraulic system:



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