still cant figure it out

[sil820]

for some reason my car is idleing really high still... it went down 4 like a week ..for sum reason now its back up... im checking all the lines but they all looked pluged up.. and no loose ones hangin around... the tps may have 2 b moved but i really dont know the correct voltage of where it should b at.. does any1 else know? right now its all the way 2 the right. what else could be the problem for idle'in so high?thanks for your help guys

[Joe]

is your timing set properly?

[FAST-DATSUN]

He is right check timing them the vacuum at idle to see if there is a leak the MAF is not seeing...

[goofynick6]

I believe most tps sensors should be .5 to 1.1 volts at idle, and 3.8-4.0 at wide open throttle.

Nick

[Wulfgang]

I'm trying to figure out why the TPS would even matter. IIRC, the ECU only uses the TPS to sense when the engine should be at idle, and for accelerator "pump." So, if that's true, there should be a closed switch on the TPS when you're at idle. Check for continuity between the terminals to make sure the switch is closed. If you get something other than 0.01 ohms or so, then it is probably installed incorrectly.

[sil820]

where do i put the voltage meter points when checkin the tps?..and i dont know how i would check the timming b/c the intercooler piping is in the way.. it runs down and around..you kno?? how do i get around that.. or where should i point the gun 2 check it?

[Yellow4g63]

Hmm maybe set the car into limp mode? unplug the MAF and take the pipe off. The check engine light should be on and you can check the timming that way? I forget if nissans will work like that to do timming. On the SR20 pulling the TPS off would do the trick.

[Wulfgang]

From the FSM...

The voltage of the wiper (the center pin, there should be 3 pins) should range from approx. 0.5 - 4 V when going from idle to full throttle. The corresponding resistance between terminals 2 and 3 should range from 2 kOhm - 10 kOhm when going from idle to throttle.

Forget what I said about the switch part. That is only used for fail-safe mode.

Oh, wait... is this RB20 or RB25?

Anyway, you may end up having a faulty AAC or air regulator. The procedures for checking those are in the FSM also, which you probably have already downloaded (if it's RB20).

[Joe]

im still leaning twords timing, my idle was WAY off while my timing was screwed up (were talking 1500 fully warm). you need to check that long before you go trying to diagnose anything else, mostly because that actually effects greatly how the engine runs.

if you have an igniter you can use one of the wires comming off of it I BELIVE, if not you need to remove the coil pack cover and use an inductive timing light on the #1 cylinder wire (i THINK its the big white one, but i could be wrong, try all of them) the #1 cylinder is closest to the radiator.

and mack is right about the vacuum leak, even a small one can cause weird idle problems like that.

remember, unless you have professional tools, always start with the easiest and most basic things first.

[sil820]

i dont even have a timming gun.. and i checked everywhere i couldnt find any vaccum leaks.my car fully warm runs at 1600.. i think my timming could b off.. but dayam

[Joe]

*DISCLAIMER* i am NOT responsible if you screw your engine up *DISCLAIMER*

from what ive SEEN, you can wing it with timing the motor by watching the idle. if you rotate the CAS till your idle goes down to 800~ its usually at near the correct timing but VERIFY IT WITH A GUN. I CANNOT STRESS THAT ENOUGH.

[sil820]

thats what i was thinking of doin but i was 2 scared.. i dont know if it will mess the motor up or not while movin the cas around with the motor running

[Wulfgang]

Even if you use a timing light, you still need to move the CAS with the motor running. I think he is just warning you because you can really screw up your timing if you don't verify it with a light.