hamsterball wrote:Unless you bled the system incorrectly (maybe forgot to take the air relief valve off), the only items left are your water pump and headgasket.
If you read my first post, I have replaced the water pump and gasket twice already.
I don't think it's the fan clutch, because the motor seems to overheat just as fast, whether I let it idle for 15 minutes, or I go drive it for 15 minutes. Engine rev speed doesn't seem to matter. I could see it being the fan clutch if it happened only after revving the motor, because that would mean the fan isn't spinning faster when the motor starts to. Not to mention, I spun the fan clutch by hand (while I had the fan blades off so I could get to the thermostat housing) and it seems to have a good amount of resistance.
And the motor has always ran cool, even in a few outstanding conditions. One time I even found my radiator half empty and in need of a flush badly, after owning the car for only 3 months. I only found that because I just happened to check the coolant level one day and found it half empty. The motor ran fine though - it gave me no reason to check, I was just being nosy. It turned out to be a crack in the upper radiator end tank that let coolant leak out and evaporate. I fixed the crack with JB Weld and never had another issue until now. Or I should say, this is the first issue that has actually caused my car to not run properly.
Also, I don't think it's the motor leaking coolant, because it never smells of antifreeze, never leaves spots on the driveway, nor does it ever seem to be low on coolant, with exception to the one time I found it half empty, nearly two years ago.
I appreciate your suggestions though.
I have an oil cooler, but I haven't installed it yet. I found this huge one off a turbo Volvo in a junkyard. I'm going to retrofit to my car, but I was waiting to do it after I got my SR swap done.
With this cooling problem, maybe my SR swap will come sooner than I expected...