still a tad confused on adjusting the clutch pedal

[fst100]

just had a lower mileage clutch replaced along with the master cylinder by a professional transmission shop. even b4 the master cylinder ganve out, the clutch pedal was pretty tight-meaning once i press down on the clutch pedal and about to release it to get into gear it'll grab pretty good. now fast forward to after the master and clutch replaced and it was still doing that. a few days later i drove a bit aggressive and notice when i was going form a stop that the clutch pedal did not start to catch til about 70% near the top?

i adjusted the 12mm screw down by the rod that alot of people do, but what else is suppose to happen? is the fork of the assembly thats connected to the rod suppose to als be adjusted or the rod suppose to go further into the cabin or more out in the engine bay? right now the 12mm screw is like a few mm away from the clutch pedal assembly. thanks in advance.

[fst100]

just did a few more searches and realize that i also have to adjust the rod itself using some pliers or something. so the more threads that goes towards the rear of the car(or fork i suppose) the quicker or more the clutch would engage, and vice versa where the more the threads is going towards the front, less threads in the fork, the higher the clutch engagement is?

[ghx407]

Less threads towards driver's seat = Clutch engages/disengages higher

[fst100]

I just recently tried to readjust my clutch pedal and I noticed the 12mm bolt was hard to loosen(CCW) so I tok a bit of force to try and break it free. Well unbeknownst I somehow bent one or both sides of the fork that connects to the rod. Well I didn’t now at first and I thought it would be a good idea to take out the cotton pin and the rod holding the fork in place. Well once I got the pin out I tried again to loosen the 12mm bolt on the rod. No good, and I was late to meeting up with friends so I tried to get the pin back in between the fork. Well I got the side closest to the door but I cant get the right side to fit into the pin >.<

so I thought I could tackle this later on and just put the cotton-pin in place since it was somewhat holding the fork in place on one side. Well the clutch was really loose and the instant I let go of the pedal the clutch would grab. So I babied it to the meeting place and bowled a few games. As I was driving there I noticed it was getting more and more hard to engage the clutch as well as shift in between gears.

Once I was done bowling, I started the car but then it quickly died? It seems that the clutch isn’t even engaged anymore to even idle the motor?? I was able to get ome by pumping the clutch 2-3 times and quickly and with much effort shift into between gears. And at stops it would quickly stall even in neutral?? So I had to start the car in 1st gear and start the car and quickly get it to start moving to prevent stalling and again I ahd to forcefully shift between gears while cruising. Any advice as to if I can replace the fork on the clutch pedal or am I screwed??? I need to get this fixed/repaired as I do NOT have another car to get around. I need your help .

I should of left the clutch the way it was, but I wanted a quicker engagement

[OMSIN]

wanted to help but the only help I can really give you is that it's called a cotter pin and not a cotton pin

[fst100]

thanks lol. well since i had daylight today i had some time to fiure some stuff out. took the fork out by unscrewing it from the rod and had to do some surgery to get it back to fitment. used the vise, hammer, flathead philips, and a dremel i was able to get it back to 'normal' and it now shifts nice and everything. the stalling issue was due to my 'custom' CAI that caused a vac leak at the MAF sensor and it would cause the stalling. swapped back the stock air box and everythings peachie again. im gonna invest in an actual CAI, prolly a cheap ebay one that has the correct adapter piece for the shape of teh maf sensor housing.

[OMSIN]

by fork do you the clutch pedal bracket because if you bent that it will only bend again I would recommend replacing it if you did. http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-R....html

[scooz14]

hows that 240 treating you??

[fst100]

the piece that gets screwed onto the rod that goes through the firewall that also has the 12mm bolt that you loosen to adjust the rod. i suppose its a "U" shape than a fork. i've been driving it around and thus far its fine and no issues.

scooz14-the cars running pretty good. gonna get some rear brake pads and rotors as the rear driver side screeches a bit taking off, making it sound like a loud horn beep . im gonna find some lower mileage suspension parts, like the sway bar and control arms and bushings as the one on the car are somewhat degrading. motor and transmission are running fine. just changed the transmission and diff fluid which seemed like they were never changed prolly from when it came off the lot .

[scooz14]

when you are coasting, does it feel like it drags. the screeching is probably a seized caliper. my 240 did the same thing when i first got it. as for the suspension parts, since i know its not your daily, get an energy suspension master bushing kit. a lot cheaper then all new arms, and it will take you a week or 5 to do!! but seriously, it will make the car feel brand new, trust me.

[fst100]

might be a seized caliper, i hate those...meaning i have to get new ones then . its my DD for now since the gtp's down and i may be selling it eventually . the energy suspension master kit u can get at advanced auto or pep boys right? why would it take soooo long to replace the suspension components?

[scooz14]

i dont thing you can get the kit from anywhere except the internet. i may be wrong though.

it just takes for ever to take every component off, get the busings out, and put the new ones back in. i did my entire suspension, refinished every part with new bushings, balljoints, tierodends, brakes, struts, and it took my 2 months working on it leisurely.

what happend to the grand prix??

[fst100]

i dont thing you can get the kit from anywhere except the internet. i may be wrong though.

it just takes for ever to take every component off, get the busings out, and put the new ones back in. i did my entire suspension, refinished every part with new bushings, balljoints, tierodends, brakes, struts, and it took my 2 months working on it leisurely.

what happend to the grand prix??

oic, maybe when i get another car as the actually DD i'll start on the suspension work on the chuki. the gtp seems to had developed, or in the process of a spun rod bearing. cant tell for certaion w/o tearing down the motor, which is somewhat PITA. i have a local whos interested in the rest of the car minus the motor which he can get a spare. the rest of the car has a built transmission, upgraded suspension, no rust on the chassis and includes a Z7 zzp 99.8% complete turbo kit.

[scooz14]

the 240 getss addicting. i have not driven my gp in the past 2 weeks casue i just got the interior and motor back together. the car is a blast to drive.