Stiff Power Steering

[xmateo]

The steering wheel on my 1993 J30 went stiff while driving last night. It was like turning the wheel on a tractor to get it home. Did I harm it while driving in this condition? Any chance it would just be a lack of PS fluid? I believe is was leaking (slow) for a while.

I just had the drive belts replace - still are sqealing though. I did notice prior to this failure, that the car sqealed pretty loudly when turning tight while backing up.

Do I use DOT 3 or 4 for this car (don't have it near me to look).

[elwesso]

Its possible the speed sensitive steering solenoid is bad.....

[elwesso]

BTW you use ATF for the PS fluid.

[RobertsnewQ]

Any fluid with DOT on the label is brake fluid. DOT doesn't issue standards for PS fluid. Nissans use Dexron ATF as PS fluid, although there are better fluids out there.

Check your fluid level first. Why didn't you do this as soon as you noticed a problem?

If you ran it out of fluid for any length of time you'll be replacing the pump soon. As well as a rack, unless you flush the system to get all the crap from the destroyed pump out. Even if you did not kill the pump, it is now permanently damaged from running dry and there is significant debris in the system.

If it turns out you have no fluid, better order a pump, and the lines to fix the original leak (99% of the time caused by lines) or take it to a mechanic ASAP.

[xmateo]

BTW you use ATF for the PS fluid.

I saw some STP ps fluid at Target. Will that work?

[maxnix]

I saw some STP ps fluid at Target. Will that work?

Not as well as Mobil 1 ATF. Look for a SnapOn shop that has the Sun ATF exchange machine and get it flushed. Will require one gallon of ATF.

PS fluid is severely stressed due to small quantity and low volume. Check the posts on steering rack failures from neglecting this item. Lots of them.
Modified by maxnix at 12:09 PM 7/29/2005

[RobertsnewQ]

I saw some STP ps fluid at Target. Will that work?

Since you've already got ATF in there, just use good Dexron ATF. You will probably be replacing your pump soon anyway so don't waste money on Mobil1 until you replace the pump and fix the leak.

PS fluid (the GM kind sold at parts stores) is BETTER for the PS system, but don't bother mixing it. ATF has friction modifiers and all kinds of stuff that are unnecessary for PS systems, but car manufacturers use it because it is cheaper.

Use synthetic PS fluid only if you flush the whole system and remove all the ATF.

[Jesda]

PS fluid seems to be much thicker, which can mean that after a cold start in the winter, steering can be a bit rough.

[xmateo]

Okay - I'm pretty mad about this . I opened the hood to discover one of the original belts laying down by the pulleys. I imagine its original - looks like it. The thing is, I had paid to have all 3 drive belts replaced just a month ago.

As you can see in the other pic, there is a hose (pipe) disconnected, just laying there. I don't know where it goes. The fluid does look a bit low (that is the PS fluid resevoir in the background, right?).

Do I dare try to drive the car back the the shop in this condition?

[elwesso]

You wont hurt anything driving without powersteering, so long as fluid is in there..

[xmateo]

2nd pic

[maxnix]

Looks like a new (OEM?) belt, but did they check or replace the idler bearings? If they seize, even new belts fail. Show us the break where it failed.

You might want to upgrade your technicians.

[xmateo]

Looks like a new (OEM?) belt, but did they check or replace the idler bearings? If they seize, even new belts fail. Show us the break where it failed.

You might want to upgrade your technicians.

No, You have to look closely at the back of the belt - I know its not the best picture. It is cracked and now has a chunk (small) missing out of it. I can't figure out why the shop would replace 2 belts and not the 3rd one. The ps belt doesn't look too difficult to get to (compared to the others).

I will definetly be taking my J somewhere else in the future - after I make these guy repair this correctly.

[maxnix]

Shops are caught between cheapie clients woho don't want to spend a dime more than necessary to get it back on the road and procedures that will minimize future labor costs, but increase presnt material and laobor costs.

It is for the owner to extablish an understanding relationship between his technician and the level of preventative maintenance he is willing to underwrite.

Like Q45tech says, "Member's standards vary." Poor shops have to assume lowest common denominator. If your denominator is larger, make sure you make the shop understand its magnitude.

[Jesda]

If the PS belt isnt connected to anything else on the J30, go ahead and drive it to your mechanic. Do some weightlifting first.

[RobertsnewQ]

If the PS belt isnt connected to anything else on the J30, go ahead and drive it to your mechanic. Do some weightlifting first.

Or call your mechanic and make his lazy *ss get over there and drive it to his shop to replace the belt!

Inexcusable.

But like Maxnix said, look for a bad idler or other part.

[xmateo]

If the PS belt isnt connected to anything else on the J30, go ahead and drive it to your mechanic. Do some weightlifting first.

I'm not sure If I dare drive it. See that lose hose/pipe in my first pic? I have now idea where it came from or what it connects to.

[maxnix]

I'm not sure If I dare drive it. See that lose hose/pipe in my first pic? I have now idea where it came from or what it connects to.

Oh, with the brass reducer end? Looks like some kind of vacuum line.

Someone with knowledge of VG30DE will tell you soon. Do you have the FSM?

[Q451990]

That definately looks like a new belt to me. I think something seized and damaged it... did you noticed any squealing or unusual noises before your failure. In my experience, the writing on the belt will be much darker from under-hood dirt than your belt in just a few months.

Did your tech. use OEM parts when he replaced the belts?

Heath

[xmateo]

Looks like a new (OEM?) belt, but did they check or replace the idler bearings? If they seize, even new belts fail. Show us the break where it failed.

You might want to upgrade your technicians.

Forgot to mention that the belt did not break, it just came off.

[xmateo]

Car is fixed now. The mechanic paid for towing and replaced belt and connected hose. I need to look under hood and verify (as I should have the first time). I doubt they used original nissan parts - so I didn't think that was the correct belt.

[xmateo]

... did you noticed any squealing or unusual noises before your failure. Heath

I recall a loud squeal about 20 mins earlier when I cranked the wheel hard as I backed out of a parking lot.

On a diff note, the car sqealed at start up this morning. Didn't hear it after that (but of course the AC was on high, so maybe it continued). I will have to monitor.

[xmateo]

I just popped the hood tonight. I discovered that the hose is still disconnected. The cover to the engine bay (underneath car) was not secured completely. Do I request a refund of the original service and take the car elsewhere? I'm about to call the BBB and report them.

[maxnix]

Take it to a shop specialzing in Z32. Having a Consult I is an indication how competent they may be.

BBB, eh, is it worth your time? Might help someone else, but BBB never reports specifics to inquiring potential customers, just number of complaints.

[xmateo]

Take it to a shop specialzing in Z32. Having a Consult I is an indication how competent they may be.

BBB, eh, is it worth your time? Might help someone else, but BBB never reports specifics to inquiring potential customers, just number of complaints.

What is Z32?

Yeah, I had a great mechanic before I moved. New my car like his own child.

I will never go back to Brake Masters (BrakeMasters) again. I don't usually like those kind of shops; now I recall why.

[maxnix]

Z32 = 300ZX