stiff brake pedal, brake booster, vacuum problem, please help

[timmyk]

my brake booster blew before i did the motor swap, so i put in a new one during swap and now the pedal is really really stiff, cant even get it down to the floor...brake light is on in the dash [for e-brake and e-brake is off]...wheels off the ground and are hard to spin...

the rod has been twisted all the way back so theres no resititance

and another thing i noticed when i turned over the car, im reading 0 vac with foot off the throttle, and i believe it should be 20 vac, but when i put on the throttle it jumps to 20 vac then to 0 psi...

so,

1. what can i try/check for my brake booster?2. whats with my vac?

im assuming its the same problem cause the booster runs off vacuum...im finding this really strange because yesterday i was reading 20 psi at idle and now this has happened

i have searched and only come up with two possible things:

vacuum leak somewhere? - i did a boost leak test prior to start up and booster install and fixed all leaks, although my bov is still leaking under throttle and will be swapped tommorrow

or

a caliper pin has siezed some where...not sure how to check for this but i will poke around tommorrow..

basically im looking for your thoughts and any more suggestions

and if it helps this is on a 96 240sx s14, and when the brake booster blew i was drifting around a turn then started to spin and was applying the brakes fairly hard, then they just went soft, then really stiff

another thing my buddy was convinced that there is no air in the system and doesnt need to be bled,...

sorry for the novel, thanks for any help

[HandMeDown]

I have a 91 240 SX. At this time, I am looking for why brake light stays on and it takes a long time to start if off; for very long. Did you know there is a check valve in the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster? On mine, it is sitting on the fire wall, dead center. The plastic tiingy has arrows that say which way works.

[bens240sx]

YOUR BRAKE PEDL NEEDS OBE ADJUSTED

[bens240sx]

[QUOTE=HandMeDown]I have a 91 240 SX. At this time, I am looking for why brake light stays on and it takes a long time to start if off; for very long. Did you know there is a check valve in the vacuum line that goes to the brake booster? On mine, it is sitting on the fire wall, dead center. The plastic tiingy has arrows that say which way works.[/QUOTe there are plastic peaces that are on the pedal it self see f they are there or if there are jus holes if there are holes put a small HEADED blot and nut in the hole jus had this problem
Modified by bens240sx at 6:48 AM 12/18/2009

[sx moneypit]

What exactly is an eaded blot???

[blackandblue]

This is a test of the booster. With the car off, the brake pedal should be hard when you have depressed it two or three times. You should notice the pedal get higher and pedal effort increase every time. When you start the car with your foot on the brake pedal, it should drop noticeably as vacuum is applied to the booster diaphram. If the pedal doesn't drop, I would suspect a vacuum problem first, booster second. If both your rear wheels are hard to turn with the car in neutral, you probably need to adjust your e- brake. If both the front wheels are hard to turn, then the master cylinder should be suspected. If only one wheel is hard to turn it is most likely the caliper on that wheel. Was the booster new or newly acquired from a junk yard? BTW Most cars have a brake fluid sensor that will illuminate the bake light if the level is low.

[bens240sx]

This is a test of the booster. With the car off, the brake pedal should be hard when you have depressed it two or three times. You should notice the pedal get higher and pedal effort increase every time. When you start the car with your foot on the brake pedal, it should drop noticeably as vacuum is applied to the booster diaphram. If the pedal doesn't drop, I would suspect a vacuum problem first, booster second. If both your rear wheels are hard to turn with the car in neutral, you probably need to adjust your e- brake. If both the front wheels are hard to turn, then the master cylinder should be suspected. If only one wheel is hard to turn it is most likely the caliper on that wheel. Was the booster new or newly acquired from a junk yard? BTW Most cars have a brake fluid sensor that will illuminate the bake light if the level is low.

good right up well explained