okay... here is the story, about a month ago i started to have a problem with my clutch pedal loosing pressure and not coming back to the full up position. Last weekend i was changing my oil and accidentally ( dont ask how) bumped the slave cylinder. When i tried starting the car, there was no pressure in the clutch pedal... none at all. So, i bled the system and clutch was working fine for about a week, when the same problem reappeared. I bled the system once again, but this time the brake fluid was leaking out of the slave cylinder. so that over a relatively short period of time (10-20 min) the pedal would loose pressure again. Any ideas...
Btw, i have 90' 240sx.
Sticky Clutch Pedal
-
Newcastle82
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2004 6:31 pm
- Car: sold my s13, have no car.
- Contact:
Had the same problem about six months ago.
Starter problems killed my car on the side of the road and I had to have it towed. Coincidentally (so it seemed) my hydraulic system died right after the guy dropped my car off in my driveway. I had almost zero clutch pressure to the pedal, and I bled forever to make -maybe- half an inch of headway.
It ended being not only my slave, but the master, too. Change them as soon as you can.
And do remember too, that when you bleed the clutch hydraulic lines, it's a little different than bleeding brakes. Bleeding brakes you depress the pedal 5-6 times and hold while someone cracks your bleeders. Bleeding a clutch, however, simply depress the pedal once, twice, and hold - then crack the bleeder. There isn't that much line running between master and slave as there is with a 4 whl disc brake system.
Good luck =)~
Starter problems killed my car on the side of the road and I had to have it towed. Coincidentally (so it seemed) my hydraulic system died right after the guy dropped my car off in my driveway. I had almost zero clutch pressure to the pedal, and I bled forever to make -maybe- half an inch of headway.
It ended being not only my slave, but the master, too. Change them as soon as you can.
And do remember too, that when you bleed the clutch hydraulic lines, it's a little different than bleeding brakes. Bleeding brakes you depress the pedal 5-6 times and hold while someone cracks your bleeders. Bleeding a clutch, however, simply depress the pedal once, twice, and hold - then crack the bleeder. There isn't that much line running between master and slave as there is with a 4 whl disc brake system.
Good luck =)~
-
Ubernoober
- Posts: 539
- Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2004 6:51 pm
-
Pocciya240
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2004 6:14 pm
-
Ubernoober
- Posts: 539
- Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2004 6:51 pm
The flex line that terminates in your slave cylinder on one end, goes into what looks like a small ditribution block on the transmission-tunnel side. That block has a rather large loop of steel line attached to it. Nissan runs the line from the master to this block, through the large loop, and then to the slave. It is designed to provide smoother engagement and to take up some vibration so that the pedal does not rattle when you drive. Some claim it is difficult to bleed due to the excess volume and the awkward angle in some of the piping trapping air. You can delete it by tying the master hard-line directly to the flex line. I have no opinion either way.