steps on ls1 swap

[1991ls13]

im going to be doing a ls1 swap and searched other builds but it dont really list the steps, like the easiest way to get it started etc. Example:

1.get the engine that you have ready to just rop in- remove engine and what ever else you need to take out.

2. clean the engine bay bla bla.

3

4

5

please, this will help very much for me and others doing this swap. people that have done this already please,

this will be greatly appreciated

pics will help

maybe someone can make it a sticky?


Modified by 1991ls13 at 9:03 PM 12/8/2008

[cnichols]

I'll try to make a sticky about it over the holidays. It's going to be a lengthy post, with as much detail as possible, so bear with me.

[1991ls13]

omg, thank you. this will help me and the others who will be doing this swap.i cant tell you have much this is appreciated

but ya pics and what ever info you have

thanks once again

[mm_ibrahim412]

would you please include the fuel and cooling systems as well? thank you

[1991ls13]

im pretty sure he will,from top to bottom.a turn key build is basically is whats hopefully going to be wrote

[1991ls13]

and is there any major tools you need to do the swap,like anything weird thats not in a usual tool set.thanks

[Blown240sx]

Alright Ill help out Mr. Nichols since we have worked together quiet a bit on his and my car.

This is S14 but it should be the same for the most part other than the wiring.

This is the bare bones get it in get it running. Ill give options for other ways at the bottom.

Materials List (T56 swapped LS1)LS1 Complete Motor w/ uncut wiring harness and ECULS1 T56 transmission (clutch, flywheel, throw out bearing and etc.)Custom Drive shaft (Hinson is ok since they already have the measurments and flanges and prices are respectable)Engine Mounts/Transmission mount (two options Buy mounts or make them)[*if making mounts read below in options area for ideas]KA Koyo RadiatorRadiator hoses (I believe the lower KA can be modded to work and the upper must be just found by trying different hoses. It should be a double 90 or 45 bends)Electric fans (FAL is good reliable brand)Two long heater hoses with 90s on 1 end (if no heat will be used cap water pump outlets)Hinson headers (again other options are available)Corvette fuel filterLS1 fuel rail adapter either to an -AN fitting or barbCustom Power Steering Line (read below)Wilwood 3/4 bore or 7/8 bore clutch master cylinderClutch line -3AN or -4AN. (-3AN will work fine since the limiting diameter is the adapter fitting on the clutch throw out bearing)Russell Fittings LS1 throw out bearing -3AN adapterGTO Oil Pan, Pickup and Windage tray from 04 and up90* 4 inch elbow for the intake.3 or 4 inch pipe for intake depending on if you get a reducer.Walbro Fuel PumpCutting wheelBF Hammer1/4 plate steel1/4 angle iron

Process.

Body

The crossmember must be cut. Notch the crossmember use the oil pan to get an approximate width of cut. Make sure you leave space on either side of the pan. Now as far as depth I notched mine back to where the welded tabs for the steering rack are.

Now place in place of the open notch the 1/4 plate steel to box in the open gaps left. This will add the strength you removed. The factory steel is only about 1/8 and I jumped on my crossmember to see if it deflected and it did not so its strong enough.

Once the crossmember is done and the pan fits between the crossmember with space. You need to start pushing the fire wall out. Get out your BF Hammer (BF = Big F*ckin). I used a 5 lb and 10 lb sledge to do most of the work. Then a small hammer to finish it out. The fire wall is double layered so it will move back pretty far so dont be afraid of it. I started at the unibody over lay. If you look into the transmission tunnel you will see what I speak of. Its the area where the front unibody over laps the interior floor pan. Start by beating it back a bit and work out towards the engine bay. The further out you beat it the better but most of the beating should be concentrated on the opening of the tunnel and about 12-14 back from the opening.The corners down near where the starter will be need to be concentrated on also.Further beating may be needed during test fitting. (keep this in mind, I test fit my motor 3 times before it cleared everything)

Fuel

240sx Walbro Fuel Pump 255lb/hr (follow given instructions that come with pump)Corvette fuel filter (2 inlet 1 outlet)The factory fuel lines will have to be moved or run you own line since the factory lines run right up by the header and cause a fire hazard.If you make a line Id use compression 6AN fittings with a 6AN line to the fuel rail and appropriate adapter. Or use a rubber fuel line with Barb fitting on fuel rails.

Cooling

KA Koyo Radiator for your model S13 or S14FAL Fan or Prefeered electric fan. Pusher fans will give better clearanceHoses as stated aboveHeater hoses as stated above if you plan on having heat

Engine

Clean it upCheck all sensors for cracksInstall GTO Oil pan setupBolt up transmissionInstall motor without headers on

Wiring

If you feel confident to do it your self, you can find a wiring write up on LS1 tech or send it off to be done. If you do decide to wire your self youll need 3 to 4 relays, wire and time.ECU must be reflashed to remove VATS and Emissions programs. If not removed car may not start or run badly.

Power Steering

Hydraulic shops can do this or you can buy one on ebay. Its cheap to make but if you dont have a hydraulic shop near buy it can be a pain. I took my factory 240sx High pressure side and LS1 high pressure side and have one line made close to the same length of the 240sx line.

Install

If using the Hinson headers start by disconnecting the steering shaft from the knuckle and slide the steering shaft through the gap in the header. Youll have to unbolt the bolts that hold the steering collum in place inside the car to get the movement you need.Just like any other swap take your time check clearances anddont get mad if you have to take it in and out several times.Do not install anything else until the motor is in and tightend down for the last time.Everything after the motor is in is just hooking up connections, tightening bolts and clamps.

Optional

Mounts

Engine MountsLS1 universal mounts from ebay.1/4 plate steel aprrox. 3 inches by 7 inchesBolt plates to crossmember through factory holes and place motor in place and measure and cut the universal mounts to fit. Then weld and add support brackets to the bottom of the 1/4 plates. These supports should bolt to the side of the corssmember like the McKenny mounts do for the RBs.

Trans Mount get motor mounts done and jack trans into place. Measure the distance back the member is and the downward distance needed and cut the T56 mount sides off. Then bolt Angle iron to factory holes. Mark and weld T56 transmission mount to the angle iron and cut the excess off.I just eye balled this. As long as the pinion angle is good and transmission is in proper alignment it will work. I had three friends stand on my mount to insure the quality.

Harness if done by yourself can be thinned out to the bare minimum. This is purely aesthetics.

Aftermarket fuel rails open up options for filters and Aftermarket fpr. Since the corvette fuel filter has a built in fpr and a return line right off the filter it can be mounted in the back. If you want an after market fpr you can run this on a standard 300zx fuel filter and run a return back from the aftermarket fpr to the tank. This not only increases power possibilities but looks good.



Ask if you have more questions. Im limited to details or a lot of pictures since I havnt swapped a car in almost a year but I can try to help.

[1991ls13]

pretty dam good so far.thanks for info.

i know sikky.com has a pretty good write up too.it`s just im going to be doing it mostly myself cause i the guys that can help me can only come here so much.

when i get my engine would it be a good idea to start just prepairing my engine first. like clean it, put the cams in and get it ready to just drop in?

and if someone could recommend any cams for me that`ll be great.

400whp is aroud my goal. give or take a fewthanks

[Blown240sx]

pretty dam good so far.thanks for info.

i know sikky.com has a pretty good write up too.it`s just im going to be doing it mostly myself cause i the guys that can help me can only come here so much.

when i get my engine would it be a good idea to start just prepairing my engine first. like clean it, put the cams in and get it ready to just drop in?

and if someone could recommend any cams for me that`ll be great.

400whp is aroud my goal. give or take a fewthanks

400 whp will need a more than just cam unless you do a rowdy cam. In that case youd need to flycut the pistons for the valve clearance.

Patriot heads and a mild cam will get you to 400. Or close to 450 if you go Patriot heads LS6 intake and MS3 cam.

[1991ls13]

i plan on getting an intake good headers and exhaust and a good tune. whats the power range on that? and i only have a stock dif so when i get the driveshaft to install it, and then get a good lsd later is that going to effect that? like am i going to need to get a new drive shaft again?

[Blown240sx]

Exhaust, intake, and headers will make 330-350 depending on the intake and tune.

The diff wont effect power made but ability to put it to the ground. You can buy an LSD that will drop right into your diff. So no you wont have to change drive shafts.

[1991ls13]

and i meant to say cams with the set up lol on top of the other things i said,but i know that the lsd will only help put it to the ground, i was just saying the if the measuremnets would still match,but ya thanks for letting me know about the lsd.

[Blown240sx]

Texas Speed MS3 in cnichols' car made I think right at 400 whp with all the things you said youd have.

[cnichols]

+ only one cam, not cams.

[1991ls13]

only one cam in the ls1? i thought that was just the fords

[cnichols]

You might want to swing by AutoZone and pickup "How to Build High Performance Chevy LS1/LS6 V-8s Book" or spend some time on LS1Tech.com learning a lot more about this engine before deciding to tackle this swap. Also search on here for more info on how others did their swaps.

[1991ls13]

ya i`ve been doing that but thanks. i`m going to have other people helping me as i go i think ill be ok. people here and online at ls1 tech and silviav8.

[migsk8]

yeah that book he's talking about is pretty damn good, on like chapter 6 it tells you how to get an extra 100hp anybody can install. here they are, with part numbers, you can thank me later :]SLP CNC-ported cylinder heads 1250399SLP camshaft 12504SLP timing chain 55002SLP long tube headers 30052LS6 intake manifold 30041PCM calibration(tune?) call 160 degree thermostat 100223SLP cold airbox kit 21033SLP maf sensor 23606obviously there are some parts in there that need to be inprovised, like the airbox, just get a good intake, i have no clue what pcm calibration means but my guess is a tune. but yeah thats straight off the "How to build high performance chevy ls1/ls6 v-8's" bookbelow all the parts it just says you should get new gaskets for everything, so yeah there you have it

[Blown240sx]

yeah that book he's talking about is pretty damn good, on like chapter 6 it tells you how to get an extra 100hp anybody can install. here they are, with part numbers, you can thank me later :]SLP CNC-ported cylinder heads 1250399SLP camshaft 12504SLP timing chain 55002SLP long tube headers 30052LS6 intake manifold 30041PCM calibration(tune?) call 160 degree thermostat 100223SLP cold airbox kit 21033SLP maf sensor 23606obviously there are some parts in there that need to be inprovised, like the airbox, just get a good intake, i have no clue what pcm calibration means but my guess is a tune. but yeah thats straight off the "How to build high performance chevy ls1/ls6 v-8's" bookbelow all the parts it just says you should get new gaskets for everything, so yeah there you have it

The blind leading the blind....

When you finally get the motor then talk to us about mods. A good set of heads will pick up almost a 100 hp with a tune. The book just gives you gide lines but as you can see they kinda have ties to certain companies (hint: SLP). This is not the cheapest way.

[1991ls13]

bro, that wasn`t me who put that. i put the post up he just made suggestions.so read who posted the thread before you start trying to yell at the other person who just gave advice.

but my set up for now is just going to be a cam, headers, intake, a good tune

[cnichols]

bro, that wasn`t me who put that. i put the post up he just made suggestions.so read who posted the thread before you start trying to yell at the other person who just gave advice.

but my set up for now is just going to be a cam, headers, intake, a good tune

Good call...that's all you'll need in the beginning. One less thing to troubleshoot should it not start up the first time.

[1991ls13]

my engines here!!!!!!yay.....NOT!! the engine camebut it was a auto! there such idiots. now i have to wait forever to get it started. damn itsorrry guys.

[migsk8]

bro, that wasn`t me who put that. i put the post up he just made suggestions.so read who posted the thread before you start trying to yell at the other person who just gave advice.but my set up for now is just going to be a cam, headers, intake, a good tune

lol sorry about that

[91 240sx s13]

where is a good place to get the ls1 engine and uncut harness?

anyone have a a suggestions?

[nyc240sx]

i have a friend selling his ls1 from his 2000 camaro ss with auto transmission the engine has like 24000 miles on it...the body aswell the car is mint he doesnt take it out much hes looking for 6000 for the engine and transmission no harness though its located in queens, ny

[1991ls13]

thats kinda high specially since its an auto. a guy got a ls2 from a gto with 6 speed with everyhing for 5k. wire harness etc

[91 240sx s13]

i was going to say thats really high, i have seen them for liek 1500-2k

and ls2's are around 5-6

[nyc240sx]

well if you seen it cheaper then go for the cheaper one my friends car is nearly new

[1991ls13]

[Chris Gage]

and if someone could recommend any cams for me that`ll be great.

400whp is aroud my goal. give or take a fewthanks

a really nice cam that works well with the LS1's is a 230/236 .613/.608 113 lsa xfi cam. I am currently running a 224/230 .609/.604 111+1lsa. These are a comp XFI grind and has great driveablity, easy to tune and should break 400 with any LS head. I made 394 to the wheels with my 224/230 on the stock 98 heads (worst flow out of the stock LS heads), with the car having issues ( driveshaft spun out of the transmission, bad gas, and some other minor issue not really concerning the LS1 or t-56 in any way.

I would recomend finding some LS6 heads (casting number 243) and a LS6 intake ($300.00). You can pick those up on LS1tech for around $900.00 together, possibly even less if you can find a good deal on the heads. Running any cam on a LS1 motor I would recomend swapping to aftermarket rod bolts such as ARP (a LS1 weak point that will destroy your motor if not done), installing Patriot performance .650 gold springs (one of the best springs on the market and can be had for $255.00. Will also insure that you wont have a valve float issue), hardened pushrods (stock ones will bend or break if the motor is accidently over spun, they are very weak. new ones cost about $100.00), LS2 timing chain, and porting your stock oil pump (if you dont have enough oil flow, you rwill spin a rod bearing and you can kiss the LS1 motor bye-bye). LS1 and LS6 oil pumps are the same piece despite what you may be told. You can easily port and polish your own throttle body to help out with some top-end flow and there are a few write-ups on LS1tech about how to do this.

With most off the shelve cams, you should not have to worry about valve clearence. I was a day away from running a 243/249 .612/.618 110+2lsa cam that woul dhave fit under a stock had and had ample piston to valve clearence. If you do decide to up your performance, a good way of doing so is milling the head down .030" and running a .040 comestic gasket to increase quench and help eliminate detnation. This will also up your compression.

Here is my dyno graph just after the cam was installed. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/....html
Modified by Chris Gage at 3:53 PM 1/27/2009