i dont know whats going on but i keep getting tiny microscopic but constant vibration in the steering wheel. I have all new driveshafts, struts, balljoints, etc.
I am thinking it could have something to do with the steering, feels like something is lose.
Any ideas?
steering vibrations...
Re: steering vibrations...
I'd take a look at either the wheel bearings or maybe tires need to be rebalanced?
Re: steering vibrations...
jack up car front with both front wheels off the ground. Let wheel assemblies hang free.
Grasp each wheel at 3--6, at 9--12 try pulling pushing each side feeling for motion, slight motion. There should be none. If there is bearing, bearing race, worn tie rods outer, inner should be examined closely. Try raising the tires with a pry bar and feel the top of the strut tower for motion or click sound, should be nothing. Roll the wheel assembly with a gentle hand feeling for snags from bearings or brakes sticking.
Spray brake cleaner onto the disks and into the open part of the caliper, see how much crap comes out. When test driving is there a change, if so brakes need a cleaning and lube, remove pads clean metal and lube on assembly. Check pads for thickness.
With car up go under (use stand not a jack when under a car) bring a rubber hammer and water pump pliers and test the suspension joints, all with a whack from a mallet or rubber hammer and a twist with the water pump pliers. Also listen to the metal parts as you strike it.
Check the tires carefully, look at the wear side to side across the face of the tread. Feel along the tread for imperfections, if any alignment.
CV joints if worn can cause noise, as can transmission output shaft, prop shaft and transfer case with 4x4.
The rear end, wheels and differentials should be examined. Aged tires may look good but separation, wear even if wear bars are good can cause noise.
A build up of dirt on the interior of the wheel can cause an imbalance but my experience shows many garages don't have their own balancing equipment balanced. Always ask for their certificate of quality as to when they balanced their equipment. If none leave, because you will be paying for nothing and have nothing but a pain.
Grasp each wheel at 3--6, at 9--12 try pulling pushing each side feeling for motion, slight motion. There should be none. If there is bearing, bearing race, worn tie rods outer, inner should be examined closely. Try raising the tires with a pry bar and feel the top of the strut tower for motion or click sound, should be nothing. Roll the wheel assembly with a gentle hand feeling for snags from bearings or brakes sticking.
Spray brake cleaner onto the disks and into the open part of the caliper, see how much crap comes out. When test driving is there a change, if so brakes need a cleaning and lube, remove pads clean metal and lube on assembly. Check pads for thickness.
With car up go under (use stand not a jack when under a car) bring a rubber hammer and water pump pliers and test the suspension joints, all with a whack from a mallet or rubber hammer and a twist with the water pump pliers. Also listen to the metal parts as you strike it.
Check the tires carefully, look at the wear side to side across the face of the tread. Feel along the tread for imperfections, if any alignment.
CV joints if worn can cause noise, as can transmission output shaft, prop shaft and transfer case with 4x4.
The rear end, wheels and differentials should be examined. Aged tires may look good but separation, wear even if wear bars are good can cause noise.
A build up of dirt on the interior of the wheel can cause an imbalance but my experience shows many garages don't have their own balancing equipment balanced. Always ask for their certificate of quality as to when they balanced their equipment. If none leave, because you will be paying for nothing and have nothing but a pain.