Steering Troubles
Steering Troubles
My 94 Hardbody 4x4 4cyl is needing it's 2nd steering rebuild. Everything was replaced with new parts @ 40,000 miles by a mechanic (with the exception of the steering box). Now at 83,000 it needs new inner and outer tierod ends as well as a new idler arm. I don't know if this is a common problem to have with these trucks but it seems a little premature to me. The only other time I've ever had to replace tierod ends was on a car with 115,000 miles. Any ideas as to what may be causing them to wear out so fast?
Re: Steering Troubles (JL-KA)
What make were the replacement parts?
I find that TWR. MOOG and Dealer OE are the only choices when it comes to replacement Nissan steering components.Large Tires can decrease the life expectancy of steering parts but this is usually the case when the 4x4 is driven hard and over a great deal of unforgiving terrain.
I never had to replace any steering parts on my 95 Hardbody 4x4 and I drove it on the trails in the Canadian Rockies. Even when I sold it was tight. The only item I have issue with is the Upper Ball Joints. I have replaced both uppers 2x since I put my Rancho Kit in my Xterra. Now I have TRW's and and I will see if they last any longer.
I find that TWR. MOOG and Dealer OE are the only choices when it comes to replacement Nissan steering components.Large Tires can decrease the life expectancy of steering parts but this is usually the case when the 4x4 is driven hard and over a great deal of unforgiving terrain.
I never had to replace any steering parts on my 95 Hardbody 4x4 and I drove it on the trails in the Canadian Rockies. Even when I sold it was tight. The only item I have issue with is the Upper Ball Joints. I have replaced both uppers 2x since I put my Rancho Kit in my Xterra. Now I have TRW's and and I will see if they last any longer.
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Desert Rat
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Re: Steering Troubles (Big-Bird)
Is the truck stock? If so, that seems like excessive wear.
It's doubtful the idler arm needs replaced...if anything, it's just the bushings, which I believe Nissan sells separately.
This isn't a hard job to do yourself if you want to save money. You need the appropriate wrenches and sockets. With a buddy's help, you can even get your alignment back right with a tape measure (the only thing impacted by this job is the toe setting).
Soak everything with penetrating oil the night before.Pull all the cotter pins and remove all the nuts holding the TRE's to the outer knuckle and to the center link. If replacing the center link, do the same.Break loose the jamb nuts on the tierod center adjustors. (remember, one side will be left hand thread, and the other right hand)Using a big hammer, hit the knuckle HARD a few times where the TRE goes through. After the right whack, it'll pop right out. Repeat on the center link sideIf replacing the center link, repeat on the idler arm and pitman arm.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
Never use a pickle fork on Nissan steering. It's not necessary, and only serves to destroy grease boots. The BFH method was taught to me by a friend who works on test mules at the Arizona proving grounds and it works like a charm.
On the alignment, measure the tierods and how they're adjusted before you disassemble them (distance between inner and outer jamb nut). When you reassemble, put the tierods back together close to those same measurements, but leave the nuts loose.
Reassemble all your steering and put the truck down on the ground. Roll the truck backwards and forwards a few feet and then measure distance between tires from outside shoulder to outside shoulder in front of the truck as close as possible to the hub centerline, and repeat the measurement behind the tires. Ideally you want 1/8-1/4" of toe in - Meaning the tires are pointed in on themselves ever so slightly to the front. This way the truck will track straight and true, and you just saved another $50 on an alignment. Adjust each tierod equally until you've achieved this measurement. Make sure after each adjustment, you roll the truck forward and backwards a few feet to true up the tires and eliminate any binding between the tires and the ground that might throw off your measurements.
If you have any questions on this procedure, just ask. I've done this on many trucks, and on my own (before the solid axle) several times, and I can do it in my sleep.
It's doubtful the idler arm needs replaced...if anything, it's just the bushings, which I believe Nissan sells separately.
This isn't a hard job to do yourself if you want to save money. You need the appropriate wrenches and sockets. With a buddy's help, you can even get your alignment back right with a tape measure (the only thing impacted by this job is the toe setting).
Soak everything with penetrating oil the night before.Pull all the cotter pins and remove all the nuts holding the TRE's to the outer knuckle and to the center link. If replacing the center link, do the same.Break loose the jamb nuts on the tierod center adjustors. (remember, one side will be left hand thread, and the other right hand)Using a big hammer, hit the knuckle HARD a few times where the TRE goes through. After the right whack, it'll pop right out. Repeat on the center link sideIf replacing the center link, repeat on the idler arm and pitman arm.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
Never use a pickle fork on Nissan steering. It's not necessary, and only serves to destroy grease boots. The BFH method was taught to me by a friend who works on test mules at the Arizona proving grounds and it works like a charm.
On the alignment, measure the tierods and how they're adjusted before you disassemble them (distance between inner and outer jamb nut). When you reassemble, put the tierods back together close to those same measurements, but leave the nuts loose.
Reassemble all your steering and put the truck down on the ground. Roll the truck backwards and forwards a few feet and then measure distance between tires from outside shoulder to outside shoulder in front of the truck as close as possible to the hub centerline, and repeat the measurement behind the tires. Ideally you want 1/8-1/4" of toe in - Meaning the tires are pointed in on themselves ever so slightly to the front. This way the truck will track straight and true, and you just saved another $50 on an alignment. Adjust each tierod equally until you've achieved this measurement. Make sure after each adjustment, you roll the truck forward and backwards a few feet to true up the tires and eliminate any binding between the tires and the ground that might throw off your measurements.
If you have any questions on this procedure, just ask. I've done this on many trucks, and on my own (before the solid axle) several times, and I can do it in my sleep.
Re: Steering Troubles (Big-Bird)
Big-Bird wrote:What make were the replacement parts?
I'm not sure what make the replacements were. The original owner was a mechanic. He's the one I had take a look at it this time and he just told me that he replaced everything with brand new parts. The truck is stock and I haven't been that rough on it off road so I don't have any idea why these parts would be wearing out this fast.Desert Rat wrote:Is the truck stock? If so, that seems like excessive wear.
It's doubtful the idler arm needs replaced...if anything, it's just the bushings, which I believe Nissan sells separately.
Re: Steering Troubles (JL-KA)
Just got done replacing everything with MOOG and its working great. No major issues other than having to use an air chisel to cut the nuts off the outers. Thanks for the help.