Steering rack boots

[dclapsaddle]

High pressure power steering hose developed a leak. Under the car I noticed both rack boots are torn. Got the hose off and getting another one made, now I need the boots. Did a search, boot replacement does not seem difficult. Can someone provide a link to "JOE"? or tell me what parts other than the boots I will need? Thanks people!

[maxnix]

http://www.infinitipartsusa.com

Just missed their 5% off sale last month.

[mxr662]

I did the two rack mounts when I did the boots. Looking back, wish I had done the outer tie rod ends.

[tfvesquire]

Hi There:

Very easy to replace the boots even with the inner and outer tie rods still on the car. I have a replacement pair of boot kits made by Snap-On I will sell you both for $18.00 shipped. These are decent quality kits that come with everything you will need to replace your torn boots. I even installed a set on my 98 Q and they fit fine.

Let me know if you need these.

Ted

[dclapsaddle]

interested. E mail me at [email protected]. Do you accept paypal?

[maxnix]

Be certain to align your car after replacement.

[captainluigi]

Perhaps I am confused. It happens. How do you replace steering rack boots w/outer tie rod ends on?

[captainluigi]

On second thought I recall an ex who had a Honda something and there was a clamshell CV joint boot with machine screws holding it together. Is that how that idea would work?

[Victor]

I don't know if a Q45 is built the same way as a J30, but on my J30 there were two ways to change the steering rack boots. One was to buy the replacement boots at Kragen and they will lend you a tie rod end removal tool which I did. But as I was doing it I realized there is a way to do it without removing the outer tie rod ends from where they connect to the steering arms. Loosen or cut off the old boots (remove the bands holding them in place) and the tie rod can now be spun loose, rotating on the inner ball joint. If you carefully measure the distance between the inner and outer tie rod ends before you start you don't even have to do a wheel alignment when you are finished if you reassemble it the exact way it was before you started. I counted the number of threads visible and put it back together with the same number showing, and verified it with measurements. The strange thing is I had a very slow leak out of the end of the rack before I started. I carefully cleaned the piston rod when I reassembled and I have not seen any leakage in three months since I did this. I am guessing some dirt was preventing a good seal and by cleaning the rod and protecting it from further contamination with the new boot the existing seal could now seal properly. Knock on wood.Forgot to mention, when reassembling do not clamp down the ends of the new boot until you have the tie rod reinstalled and adjusted to the correct length or else you will twist the new boot up.

[tfvesquire]

If you are simply replacing the boots, then it's even easier than described above. The boot kits I have contain a plastic cone shaped part that goes over the sharp tie-rod stud so you don't have to remove the outer tie rod and mess up your alignment. It looks like a small funnel.

You place the plastic "tool" upsidedown over the stud so the rubber boot doesn't get cut or damaged. Then, apply a small amount of grease to the plastic cone and gently pull the boot onto the outer and inner tie-rods. Then, you can either reuse your existing metal clamps or use the new zip ties from the kit.

One suggestion if you are replacing the outer tie rods: before you remove them, use a bottle of whiteout or other quick drying paint and mark the location of the locking nut. Then, measure the old tie rod(s) with the new tie rod(s) to make sure they are the same length. Then tighten them down to the original location.

Good luck!!

[Q45tech]

Hopefully owners are getting alignments every 6 months to optimize MPG, handling, braking, and tire wear.

[cptndoosh]

Who the hell would do that? I wouldn't even do that if I had my own alignment rack...