How do I get the steering column off the steering gear? I unbolted the first bolt up from the steering gear on the column but it's still on there really good.
Also, any recommendations on getting a stubborn tie rod end out of the knuckle? I got the key and bolt out, but the damn stud won't come out of the knuckle. I got it soaking in PB Blaster right now. Is it okay to bang the hell out of it with a rubber hammer?
steering column ?
wack the knockle where the tie rod is bolted in a few times with a solid hammer,it should just pop out. to realease it from the coloum just undo the bolt holding it to the rack input then undo the rack mount brakets and slide the rack out of the clamp,you need to completely remove that bolt too not just loosen it.
The rack input shaft should just slide out of the joint clamp once the bolt is removed you should not need any force at all. You will not be able to lift the joint off the rack if thats what your trying to do. the joint bolt is like the pinch clamp on a bicylce seat. once you remove the bolt you should be able to spread the joint clamp slightly with a screw driver to slide the rack out. Although that is not usually nessesary as it will just fall out in most cases.
NISTECH wrote:The rack input shaft should just slide out of the joint clamp once the bolt is removed you should not need any force at all. You will not be able to lift the joint off the rack if thats what your trying to do. the joint bolt is like the pinch clamp on a bicylce seat. once you remove the bolt you should be able to spread the joint clamp slightly with a screw driver to slide the rack out. Although that is not usually nessesary as it will just fall out in most cases.
It's not sliding out. I have the bolt out, I tried the screwdriver thing. But I was trying to push the column up.
How do you move the rack downward, away from the column? The subframe is right there, and I can't get it around the subframe because of the steering column.
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s13sr20chris
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- Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
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is it like heavily rusted or what. if the rack is free dangling and not sliding off the colum joint something is serioulsy wrong. Do you have a digital camera to snap a shot of it and post the photo. maybe you and I are not on the same page here or something. It should not be that difficult to slide it off. the hardest part is manuvering it around to get it to slide off since it is in tight quarters but by lowering your front sub frame you eliminated that problem.
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s13sr20chris
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- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
- Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
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Yes, that splined shaft that comes out of the rack and pinion unit is pretty rusted. I don't know how pics will help, but I'll get some hopefully tonight but more likely tomorrow.
Actually, I didn't lower the subframe, I raised the engine and bellhousing by unbolting one motor mount and jacking it up. But yeah, the rack is free dangling by the steering column. I'll try to get those pics.
Actually, I didn't lower the subframe, I raised the engine and bellhousing by unbolting one motor mount and jacking it up. But yeah, the rack is free dangling by the steering column. I'll try to get those pics.
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s13sr20chris
- Posts: 4148
- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
- Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
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Have you saoked it in PB blaster or whatever that rust penetrant is?
The pic was to confirm that what you are trying to seperate is what I am telling your to seperate since I have never had one actually weld it self on. But I asked if it was rusted since you are from the part of the country that virtually destroys cars with rust. Remember I am in california I hardly ever have to deal with rust.
The pic was to confirm that what you are trying to seperate is what I am telling your to seperate since I have never had one actually weld it self on. But I asked if it was rusted since you are from the part of the country that virtually destroys cars with rust. Remember I am in california I hardly ever have to deal with rust.
Alright, got it off.
It was basically welded on with rust. I ended up going up to where the U joint clamps onto the column, unbolted that, stuck a couple of 1/2" drive extensions down onto the U joint from under the hood and pounded on the extensions with a 5 lbs hammer and 20 hits later, the U joint came off, then I held the rack to the ground and pounded off the U joint from the rack. Thanks for your help NISTECH. Rust is a *****.
It was basically welded on with rust. I ended up going up to where the U joint clamps onto the column, unbolted that, stuck a couple of 1/2" drive extensions down onto the U joint from under the hood and pounded on the extensions with a 5 lbs hammer and 20 hits later, the U joint came off, then I held the rack to the ground and pounded off the U joint from the rack. Thanks for your help NISTECH. Rust is a *****.
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s13sr20chris
- Posts: 4148
- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
- Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
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Chris if you worked a week in california you would never go back to working on cars there. We are seriously spoiled here. our shop has a cutting torch but I think the last time it was used was to getto weld a piece of coat hanger on one of our bench vises to fix the stopper knob on the spin handle. that was a year or 2 ago.
On the exhuast campaign for the QR25's the sheild bolts usually just come right out too.
On the exhuast campaign for the QR25's the sheild bolts usually just come right out too.
Well, I guess I know where I'm getting my next s13 from. The sea salt air doesn't cause any rust?
Thanks a lot for all the help, if you wouldn't have told me it was just one bolt holding it in, I would have been too scared to pound it off like I did. Thanks! If I was rich I'd donate some money to you (but I'm not).:pface
Thanks a lot for all the help, if you wouldn't have told me it was just one bolt holding it in, I would have been too scared to pound it off like I did. Thanks! If I was rich I'd donate some money to you (but I'm not).:pface
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s13sr20chris
- Posts: 4148
- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
- Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
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its all good. i really dont have that much of a corrosion prob here. its the cars from up north that have it bad. we just have a little rust here and there. just enough that pinch bolts dont just fall out:)
side note for nistech:well i finally got a break for putting up with the dealerships mess. i got promoted to blue team leader. PRAISE THE LORD! hope i can handle it.
side note for nistech:well i finally got a break for putting up with the dealerships mess. i got promoted to blue team leader. PRAISE THE LORD! hope i can handle it.
Glad to hear you got it taken car of spitz, we do have some rust from the coastal towns but it is right on the coast that happens but even then its very minor. Not enough to make it that hard to get apart. Time to enjoy the fruits of your labor!!:thumbup:
congrats Chris. Its quite an undertkaing to run a crew ,alot of stress involved plus you are subjected to more of the buisness end of service which can add a heap of stress, at least thats the way it is for me at my dealer. Good luck and remember patience is a virtue..lol
congrats Chris. Its quite an undertkaing to run a crew ,alot of stress involved plus you are subjected to more of the buisness end of service which can add a heap of stress, at least thats the way it is for me at my dealer. Good luck and remember patience is a virtue..lol
Hey, gumby, for the tie rods I used this special ball joint tool, its sorta like a clamp that has a bolt head that tightens it, you use a wrench on the bolt head to tighten the clamp. One end goes on the top of the tie rod stud and the other goes below the knuckle. I HIGHLY recommend getting ahold of one of these tools if your tie rods are even being a little bit stubborn. If you do get one of these tools, make sure you thread the nut on the top of the tie rod stud a little bit, so the clamp doesn't mess up the stud.
-Brandon
-Brandon