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eastcoastchaos
Posts: 307
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 2:59 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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finally finished with head rebuild and new head gasket. lots of screwing with timing and i've got it to start consistantly but it only runs for a few seconds then dies. weather i'm on the gas or not it doesn't seem to do anything. just crank start die. pleeeaaasssee help me i hav'nt driven her in weeks


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eastcoastchaos
Posts: 307
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 2:59 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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i did the ecu test after lots more screwin with the timing and came up with 11 and 21. crankshaft position sensor and ignition signal primary. what do those mean and how do i fix um. thanks

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eastcoastchaos
Posts: 307
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 2:59 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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allright now i'm thinkin maybe it is the ignition signal primary. is that in the distributor? anyhow to get my distributor in i had to tap it with a slide hammer. could that have broken it. what all would i need to replace?

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eastcoastchaos
Posts: 307
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 2:59 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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no more codes this morning. they must have fixed themselves. so what else. please help

hachibroku
Posts: 193
Joined: Sat Oct 30, 2004 1:10 pm
Car: 98 240sx s14 MO Betta

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check your oilpressure switch if it doesnt read pressure it wont allow the fuel pump to continue to run and it will only prime the system

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eastcoastchaos
Posts: 307
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 2:59 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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where is that. and i just replaced my o2 sensor b/c i did the test on the ecu and it showed bad o2 sensor. i can keep it running with the gas now but if i just let it run maybe 5-10 seconds at best, it starts out running a little fast then the rpm's drop it stutters then stalls.it's getting good spark, compression is between 180 and 185 all the way through and i think it's timed right now.

Nismo_Freak
Posts: 10314
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX

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Re-evaluate timing.

Also, try unplugging your MAF. See if that allows the engine to at least idle.

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eastcoastchaos
Posts: 307
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 2:59 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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it idles pretty high but it seems smooth w/o the maf and it doesn't stall anymore it ran for a few minutes before i just turned it off.

the part of th MAF that has the wire seems a little screwed, there are four terminals and one of them doesn't doesn't have the metal female part of the plug. i think i'll replace her and see what happens. thanks

Nismo_Freak
Posts: 10314
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX

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eastcoastchaos wrote:it idles pretty high but it seems smooth w/o the maf and it doesn't stall anymore it ran for a few minutes before i just turned it off.

the part of th MAF that has the wire seems a little screwed, there are four terminals and one of them doesn't doesn't have the metal female part of the plug. i think i'll replace her and see what happens. thanks
There are only 3 pins to the MAF.

You need to replace the MAF itself.

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eastcoastchaos
Posts: 307
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 2:59 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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is the junk yard a bad idea. these things are like 400 bucks new.

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benemorius
Posts: 1937
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:39 pm
Car: s13, s13, eg, e36

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I wouldn't say the junk yard is a bad idea, but that's just my opinion. Seems like maf's are either good, bad, or dirty. Dirty ones get cleaned, bad ones get thrown away, and good ones keep working until they get dirty or until you mess them up while cleaning them.

Translation: clean your maf with carb cleaner, check the connections in the harness, double check it with a multimeter, and if it still is no good then get one from the junk yard that looks ok.

Nismo_Freak
Posts: 10314
Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX

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eastcoastchaos wrote:is the junk yard a bad idea. these things are like 400 bucks new.
Alot of yards have replacement policies on parts like MAFs anyways.

But yeah, definately don't buy a new one.


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