Starting problem

[InsanityInc]

yes. I've followed the timing procedure in the FSM exactly.

[s13sr20chris]

ok. sorry if i am going over things more than once and maybe acting like you are dumb. i dont want to infer those things. i am still getting the hang of trying to fix cars over the internet

[InsanityInc]

how are you supposed to adjust the TPS anyway? The FSM I has says to check the resistance, and the resistance isn't really in the right range, but it also says something about testing voltage, but it also says to test the voltage when the connector is connected to the harness, which seems physically impossible.

[s13sr20chris]

you have to backprobe. some people just pierce the wiring with a test probe. if you have to do that you can. i dont reccomend it nor do i do it but if you do it use tape to fix it afterwards. i use a t-pin to backprobe the connector. this means you stick the pin between the wire and the rubber boot around it. you slide it as far into the connector as possible. you may have to try a few times to be sure you got it. repeatability is good anyhow. then you just pull the voltage right out of it while the circuit is powered.

[InsanityInc]

I see... Would it be possible to shove a thin wire into the plug and then attach the harness without the wire breaking? Also, would a tiny wire like that be able to carry enough voltage?

I don't really think it's the cause of the problem, considering I moved the TPS around to a bunch of different places, and it still did it. Though I figure it can't hurt to make sure it's set right.

My car has an exhaust leak, is it possible that the exhaust leak is somehow causing the problem? I have a cone filter and the leak is at the header/PAIR valve connection, so It's possible the exhaust is recirculating into the intake, or the leak itself is somehow causing it...

I'll try and describe how it starts up a little better, as well:

You crank it, it goes for a second, starts up. Jumps to about 1100-1300 rpms for maybe half a second, then it starts to drop, hangs at 700-800 for about a quarter of a second, then keeps dropping. Occasionally, it will start if I don't give it any gas, but it's still really rough, because it gets down to about 400 rpms, but manages not to die, then it comes back up.

[InsanityInc]

and another thing, it starts extra badly when it's hot outside(and idles lower), and sometimes starts perfectly when it's cold outside(and idles higher).

[s13sr20chris]

i know you said its not rich but that sounds like a fuel issue. i am running in circles here because i would jump right on the ect as that is a common issue. i have known dirty injectors to do the same. the tps will do that but if its close to being right the ecm can learn its way out of that. then it just goes away.

[InsanityInc]

well, there's no smoke from the tailpipe, I recently replaced the O2 sensor, and the plug tips look almost completely white.... I'm not really sure of any better way to test besides a UEGO.

I'll probably be putting the car on a dyno within the next few days, so if it's the A:F, I'll find out then I guess.

The injectors could be dirty, though. I put some seafoam in my tank on the last fillup, so I'll see if that has any effect when I fill up next time. One of the injectors was clogged with spiders when I got the car (apparently it was garaged for a long time), and it wasn't well-kept engine-wise, so it wouldn't surprise me if the other injectors are dirty.