Sorry Jacko,
Gotta chime in and straighten up the facts. The alternator has nothing to do with your startup. The reason batteries have CCA (cold cranking amp) ratings is because when you start your car, the starter motor uses a significant amount of current from the battery to turn the engine over and get it running.
I do think this issue is electrically related, but I HIGHLY doubt it has anything to do with the alternator. The battery is an unlikely suspect as well. Especially since it sits in it's own compartment away from engine heat.
The issue might be as simple as a corroded or worn sensor harness. Starting problem where heat plays a role usually mean there is a thermal expansion issue.
We need a clear description of what still works when the car won't turn on.
pradip.patel wrote:... it will start and than goes back to idle...
I have a problem with this statement. The car is supposed to idle. This is when the engine is running, but is in neutral or park. Idle rpm is usually 650 rpm.
pradip.patel, did you mean to say that the car will start, then stall?
Do your lights dim significantly when you try to turn the car on?
If so, the battery might need replacing, though it probably won't fix your starting issue.
When the car is running fine, do the lights dim while under heavy acceleration?
This would indicate an alternator issue. Really unlikely, but I'll throw it out there.
Do you make it a point to wash your engine?
Doing so may have corroded a sensor harness. It's possible that the corrosion and thermal expansion are at fault.
Another possibility is a Mass Airflow Sensor or Vacuum issue. I would lean more towards the MAF than the Vacuum because a clogged vacuum line should breath better while hot than cold.