Starting my build!

[Chris28]

Ok, so last night I went ahead and took the plunge and started buying things for my ka-t project. I still don't have a turbo, injectors, or ic and piping, but I'm getting a pretty good deal on all that stuff local so it's cool. After that I'll need a tune. With the info in the recent rom tuning db thread, I've been thinking about doing it myself, but would also be willing so send someone my ecu and a healthy amount of cash for a tune .

Anyways, on to the parts. Feel free to comment/make suggestions/voice concerns for any of the following.

Topline OEM engine rebuild kitNew high velocity oil pumpOEM water pumpOEM timing chain kitARP head studsSSA bottom mount t2 manifoldJGS oil line kitWalbro 255 fuel pumpMegan FPR

Soon to come

Sr T25370cc InjectorsFMIC and pipingSR turbo inlet/outletSR downpipe

-Chris

[DevilMB3017]

You're off to a pretty good start there man.

Looks like you know what you want to do with this car, and thats good.

You might want to add some gauges to your list and maybe a boost controller? I'd highly recommend a wideband O2 sensor at the very least

[musashin]

Gonna add a BOV to that list, or are you just gonna let that turbo surge?

[Chris28]

Gonna add a BOV to that list, or are you just gonna let that turbo surge?

pshh...bov's are for noobs. Haha yeah, I'm definitely going to add a bov, the piping might come with one already on it but if not I'll hit up craigslist.

[Chris28]

Ok quick question. If I have a tune that I trust should I really invest in an AFR meter? Boost gauge is a definite, but I'm not sure about a wideband system. I'll only be running 8 psi max, so idk about a boost controller. All I'm really looking for is a dependable setup, maybe in a few years when i upgrade to t3/t4 I'll go the whole 9 yards with gauges and stuff. Thanks

-Chris

[DevilMB3017]

A wideband air-fuel meter, in my opinion is a must for KA-T.

I've had times when my car seemed like it was running good, but was lean/rich and I could fix the problem before it became a blown motor.

For example, a busted TPS sensor...The car was running okay, didn't throw a check engine light or anything, but my AFR was running rich. Hooked up a Consult, and we found the TPS was not reading...Saved me a potential problem.

[esahuque]

get rid of that topline garbage and get a nissan oem timing chain kit. i've seen more than a few warnings that the chains they sell are weak. go on ka-t.org and search it.

[Chris28]

Deal, then I'm going to look into an oem timing chain kit and probably get the aem uego. The zeitronix looks sweet, and is definitely the best deal, but frankly I wouldn't use all the extras it comes with. The aem looks good because it comes with the gauge, is reliable, and all I'll need it for is for later on down the road when I get an safc or something I can adjust my afr's for cruising or w/e...that's about all I would use it for. That and of course making sure everything is running right. I also bought a generic ebay MBC, and i'll be setting it up like the write up on here so it's more of a check valve. Eliminates the possibilty of a boost spike and I can adjust it easily to around 10 psi for when I feel like it, and I'm definitely getting a boost gauge so I can monitor that it's working properly. On the subject of boost gauges, it's just a psi gauge right? I was thinking of just getting a gauge and some hose at advance auto or something and doing it all myself, or should I invest in an electronic one? There is one on the classifieds for 65 bucks (electric), but i'm gonna do some research and see if I can make my own for cheaper, say tap into the cluster lights for a light up gauge if I can get one. Thanks for all the advice!

-Chris

[DevilMB3017]

It's a little more pricey, but I have an AEM boost controller/gauge. It does both and fits in a small gauge housing. It has two buttons on it to setup all the functions. I really like it personally. It would look good with the AEM wideband next to it, lol.

It's a little more money, but just a thought for you to have and know it exists.

[Chris28]

Thanks for all the info about the DevilMB3017. A little update, I got a t25 over the weekend with very little shaft play, someone i know looked it over and he said he's never seen a used turbo with any less shaft play than mine, so I guess it's pretty good. It came with inlet and outlet pipes, and I got it for 130. I have my ecu with me here at school so I can ship that out to efi specialists now and not have to be waiting on it when I'm ready to drop the engine back in (not gonna do my own rom tuning this time, but maybe when I upgrade later one). I also ordered an ebay fmic and piping, so all i need left are injectors and a bov. If anyone happens to have some spare 370cc injectors laying around, I'll gladly take them off your hands .

Also, with gaskets for the t25...I went to advance today to see if they had 300zx turbo gaskets, which they didn't, so I have a question. Can I use liquid gasket on the inlet/outlet pipes? I was thinking about it and it seems like if under enough boost the gasket could get sucked into the turbo or blown out the other side into my piping. Not sure that's likely, but is it possible? Can i just make my own gaskets out of gasket paper? Thanks.

-Chris

[jeff420]

what is the brand of the oil pump your using? ive heard bad stories about the topline oil pumps. just throwing that out there.

[Chris28]

It's a toga high velocity oil pump. I heard somewhere that they are just oem pumps re-shimmed for higher velocity flow. I think someone else on the forums is running one. Thanks for the heads up though.

[DevilMB3017]

They have very high temp gasket maker that could be used for that kind of thing, but I'd still suggest having a real gasket in there.

Try JGSTools.com to at least see the gasket maker stuff I'm talking about.

And http://www.atpturbo.com has been good for me to find weird gaskets, couplers, etc. at reasonable prices.

[Chris28]

Ok, I got some more stuff together. I ordered the turbo exhaust outlet and downpipe from ebay the other day, as well as a front mount intercooler and piping. I got sr injectors in a ka fuel rail for 30 bucks + the steering rack from my parts car. (missing one injector, if you have a spare let me know!), and then some other random stuff. I can get a forge bov for 65 bucks, so all I really need now is to get my ecu out for tuning and to get a boost gauge. I'm gonna start tearing apart the engine over thanksgiving break so I can hopefully have it back on the road by early january. Haha I can't wait to start, it's gonna be sweet.

[Chris28]

Kinda update, everything has been ordered, the engine is apart in my garage, block and head are at the machine shop, ECU is in the mail on the way to EFI Specialist. I'll hopefully have it back together and running before Christmas. Setup is t25 with sr 370cc's, hopefully around 250 hp with that setup at like 10 lbs...freshly rebuilt kinda bored out KA haha. I got the intercooler and piping from ebay, fits amazingly, see my post in the Ebay thread. For gauges I have Prosport boost and oil pressure, and I'll be getting the AEM UEGO Wideband for Christmas. Tuning as mentioned before is going to be the EFI mail order tune, and someday I'll get an SAFC or something to make little changes. I'll update this thread again when I get everything together, so this is just a little update haha. Sorry for the phone pics, I'm at school so I can't just go outside and take real pics.

Here's the intercooler

Here's my garage lol

and my valve cover...i wanted to do something that would stand out haha

QUESTION: I know I'm not supposed to break in the engine with boost, but from what I've heard you are supposed to push the engine during break in. If I'm easy on it I can stay out of boost, but if I push it I will boost. Should I break it in NA...or can I just not go into boost for like the first 25 miles then slowly start letting it have more and more boost? Thanks.

[spank044]

I've been boosting 27 psi since day one fire up with no problems at all. The motor was broke in at about 100 miles or so. This is a drag/street car though, not a DD. You should not have any problems running boost on break-in. Just don't free rev the engine and always have good load on it. Shift before 6000 rpms and you should be fine. You will here both sides of the argument, but think about it. Stock turbo cars are broke in on an engine dyno at the factory with factory set boost levels, so it is ok to boost during the break in period.

[WDRacing]

For break-in I go with the drive it like you stole it method. Has always worked well for me. Never lug the motor, shift before 6k like suggested, do lots of high vacuum engine braking as well.

This is assuming you do a couple warm up cycles at idle and change the oil prior to actual driving. Don't use synthetic for break-in either. Cheap stuff works fine for the first 250 or so.

WD

[Chris28]

Ok thanks. For the first startup I'll let it idle for about 10 minutes, let it cool down, do it again, then change the oil. After that I'll probably change it after like 50 miles of driving, then 100. Wal-mart Supertech FTW!

[spank044]

Don't bother changing the oil at 50 miles then 100. First fire up make sure everything is operating correctly, then use a pair of vise grips or something to lock the idle at 2000 rpms and let it rev high for 20 minutes. Then shut it down, change the oil. Then drive it like normal with good load. Then change it at 500 miles. If the oil looks good and doesn't smell burnt then setup a normal planned maintenance schedule and stick to it. I would wait til I had 1000 miles on it or you can tell it is broke in well before switching to synthetic or heavy weight super slick.

[Chris28]

Ok so 20 minutes at 2000 RPM it is. After an oil chage I'll drive it around while keeping load on the engine, along with lots of engine braking.

For the BOV, where are you all getting your vacuum source? I'm probably going to use on of the ones that come out under the throttle body, but I'm curious if there is a better source.

I'll probably have some questions about the vacuum line nightmare that resides on the back of the block, but I'll post pics when I can't figure out where everything goes haha. Thanks for the replies.

[musashin]

Hey man, I don't know if you're gonna be needing any help with this, but I'd be happy to come be an extra set of hands, though I don't know any more than you do.

[Chris28]

Thanks! I might a little later, but right now it's just a matter of waiting for the machine shop to tell me that the block is done. I'll let you know if I do...when do you get home?

[musashin]

Heh, I'm already home. Came home last night. My exam schedule sucked, Monday Tuesday Wednesday and Friday of last week.

I'm hoping to get the 5-speed swap done over break too..but I guess we'll see.

When do you get back, if you haven't already?

[Chris28]

I get home late tuesday night. 5sp over break? I can see that happening. It took me 3 days without constantly working on it, so as long as you have all the parts it shouldn't be that hard. If my engine is back together and running I'll help you out, but I want to get mine back on the road first haha.

[turbonola]

Wal-mart Supertech FTW!

hell yeah, i still use it after 3k+ miles

[Chris28]

Haha yeah I plan on using it for a while.

Ok, uhh boost lines. I have 2 quick tap boost fitting things. I know the wastegate needs to see boost, but for my boost gauge can I T off of the wastegate line, or should I use the other quick tap? Also, I can get the hose from the auto parts store right? Isn't it just vacuum line?