Starting issues (again)

[Towncivilian]

I've been having intermittent starting issues lately. When I start to crank, nothing happens - no click or other sound. If I try cranking again, it might do nothing again or start up. The security LED is not lit when this happens, so it is not a problem with NVIS. Battery terminals are tight and free of corrosion, and battery voltage with ignition off is 12.63 volts. Battery is 7-8 months old, starter and alternator OEM. I have 124.5k miles.

I'll try cleaning the battery terminals again (perhaps both ends if the other ends are easily accessible), and maybe swap the ignition relay with the blower motor relay in case the relay is flaking out. I will also have Nissan test my battery and maybe alternator if they'd do that for free. Where is the starter located? I'd like to verify connections there. Any other suggestions?

[ARKQX33V6]

12.63 is low for a fairly new battery. The voltage may be just on the threshold of too low for the ignition.

With the meter on the battery terminals start the car and read how low the voltage goes and post back.

In the meantime, do you want to give that battery a new life?

Equalize it! Here is how, be careful, need a charger that has 3 settings, 2A 10 A and 50 A...all amp settings are approximate, but something around those ranges.
Charge the battery at 10 A until fully charged, then trickle at 2A until fully charged. Now with a battery hydrometer test the electrolyte of each cell, about 1,25-1.3.

That proves a full charge!
Now with the battery in the open outside and protected from blowing up and spraying you, your car and other charge it at 50 A.
This high charge will start the electrolyte boiling...no smoking!
Dol this for 2 minutes, stop charging and read battery voltage, did it rise, if yes, charge for another 2 minutes...read the voltage should be high.

Let sit to de-stratify the electrolyte, take a voltage reading after a few minutes.

The battery at times changes the electrolyte to a non conductor which reduces the amp-hours of the battery and equalizing changes the electrolyte to a complete conductor after all that's what an electrolyte is a liquid conductor.

Your battery should now have enough umph, if not try longer equalization periods.

Keep an eye on the battery level, use only distilled water, clean and secure terminals and clean the main ground to frame connection.

Retesting the starter should indicate higher voltage during starts.
If this is all done and voltage does not climb higher, the starter needs a good looking at.

Be careful, use caution, the battery is a time bomb!

Post your results

[Pathy415]

I was just doing some research and I use this method to check my charging system: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuumBVz6WOM

Also, is there a way to check the distributor assembly? I have heard starting issues from distributors gone bad. Please keep us updated!

Oh and if you haven't already done so, I'd trace the entire length of the battery cables and see if anything is loose/worn.

[Innovazn]

when you cleaned your engine bay you could have

A) knocked something loose
B) seriously f**ked your alternator
C) got ALOT of things wet that SHOULDNT be wet...

Ive cleaned my engine bay before with those self serve power washer places and never had a problem. so might want to look into that.

[Towncivilian]

Nope, didn't knock anything loose and I just sprayed lightly with Pledge and wiped. I also had this issue before I cleaned the engine bay. Didn't use a garden hose or got anything wet except a bunch of plastic.

The past couple days I've had no starting issues for the most part; on the first "cold" start yesterday (as cold as Florida heat gets) there was about a second delay, then cranked right up. From then I haven't had issues.

[ARKQX33V6]

Battery voltage any higher than before?

[Towncivilian]

I have not had any starting issues for the past week. I suppose it was possible some Pledge overspray contacted something related to the ignition system. I will be more careful next time when cleaning my engine bay.