Starter seems to "work" when it wants *VIDEO*

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longhornsqx4
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Car: 2001 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5L VQ35DE

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This is for an 01 Qx4 with the vq35de, basically, sometimes the car clicks over, sometimes it doesnt, more so it does than doesnt, but bothers the heck out of me when it doesnt, all lights power up but on the last kick where the starter is supposed to kick the motor, sometimes it just does nothing, make no noise when turned over.

You can try it again in 3 seconds and itll work, sometimes it takes 3 minutes etc. I copied someones video from an old thread about the same problem in the same car, but that never got resolved there either.



The only thing mentioned in the thread I took this from was an inhibitor relay, but I was unable to locate that in my car and the FSM.

ANy help appreciated


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SteveTheTech
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You need to see if you are getting a start signal. This can easily be verified using a test light at the small wire connected to the starter. Have someone engage the starter (using the key) while seeing if the light lights up (if you have a good ground). If you get start signal that its a safe assumption that your starter is failing. Since it's intermittent I highly suspect the starter is failing.

I looked at the other video on you bucket page, the one with your roof flexing is pretty wild. I can only imagine what's going on inside during such an acoustic frequency. That's pretty wild, what's the xmax on those subs? Back in the day I was a big fan of hsu? research subs they could move serious amounts of air and give an unrivaled audio experience. IT's been years since I built a good system like that though.

longhornsqx4
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HAHA, thanks for the compliments, I often wonder if its my stereo that cause some of these problems when things are shaken so crazy. The subs have a total xmax of 2.3" each. Since that video Ive even upgraded to giving them more power lol, the roof crazyness had been "helped" by 3-4 layers of dynamat and a case full of expanding foam

As for my starter problem, Ive never used a test light but I'll go buy one today anyways and try and figure it out. I was under the car yesterday and seen the starter, but didnt notice any wire connections ( I just didnt see them ), but there will be more than just one wire going to the starter right? Which one would I be sticking the test light probe into? After I locate that wire, the test is simply inserting the test light in the wire, and having someone turn the key all the way, light comes on, Ive got signal, light doesnt come on, I dont

It just bothers me that sometimes it happens and sometimes it doesnt..... So it may be hard to test if its "working" and starting tomorrow

Thanks again for your help

longhornsqx4
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Also steve, my mechanic (shadetree not a dealership) said he was quite sure it may be the ignition switch. This was only told to me over the phone though, he never seen the car, he made that assumption based off just what I was telling him the problem was.

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SteveTheTech
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In all honesty given what you have done to your truck anything is possible. The reason I say to check the smaller of the two wires connecting to the starter will check the entire start signal circuit in one quick step.

How have you managed to assemble such an impressive system without the use of a multimeter or test light? The harmonic vibrations cause by your stereo can damage almost anything from the roof to the wheels.

The wire that is attached to the solenoid is the one you will need to locate and verify signal at.

longhornsqx4
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Ive just never used a test light or seen one used I guess. Ive used a multimeter and voltmeter, heck I can tell you the resonating frequency of my car, just never had electronic problems before.

Thanks for the tip to, I bought a nice test light today @ autozone for $12 so I will get under the car tomorrow and ask my neighbour if he can turn my key for me for a minute while I test.

longhornsqx4
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Well I got under the car today anyways, the car hasnt been doing the problem for the last 2 days nor was it when I was ready to test, but I got under there anyways to clean/tighten/test. I'll doodle on the picture to show what I did



So with the key clicked over in on position (to me one position before it starts the car, dash lights are on etc) There was no power on the thread closest to passenger side and visible in the picture.

But there was power on the thread that was covverred by the black rubber cap that you cant see in the picture.

I am confused though, the big unit is the starter itself, the smaller cylinder above is the start solenoid?

Just trying to clarify

But I also used electrical cleaner on that electrical connections insides and cleaned it well, and tightenned both nuts that connect the wiring to the solenoid, they were very tight, but tight enough to make a connetion

Whats next

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SteveTheTech
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The wire with the contact that you cleaned is the signal wire. That is the wire you will need to test when it will not start. The terminal that is covered is the 12V supply and should be clean and covered.

longhornsqx4
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This problem is KILLING me Steve lol, was stuck at the mall and the bank today for 5 min while it didnt start. Got home ate dinner, tried to start wouldnt go, so I jacked the car up, hooked up the test light and got my neighbour out to turn the key for me.

It starts, BAH! Then once its started once and warm it just seems to work

Is there any other way to test? You seemed semi sure it was the starter, if it was the starter I was planning on buying this used unit off ebay

http://cgi.ebay.ca/2002-NISSAN...A1318

As Ive bought the power steering pump and rack off of that car with success. Im just short on cash and that unit would only run me $80

I just dont want to buy that without a good chance that it is the problemd piece, and I just needed an ignition switch or something

Again I really appreciate youre help

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SteveTheTech
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If you can verify signal to the starter it rules allot of components out, that is my main reason for suggesting that based on your description and video.

You can shotgun the starter, but I will not gaurantee that it resolves your issue as we have yet to narrow it down. This is a great illustration of what drives me nuts on a daily basis.

longhornsqx4
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Alrighty I guess Ill just keep trying, I left the car on the stands for the night, I'll get my dad to test it with me before he goes to work

Its sad that Im actually HOPING for my car not to work

longhornsqx4
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I FINALLY GOT THE TEST COMPLETED

Took so many tries to get it to where the truck would "not start" when trying to do the test.

And the verdict is that I am NOT getting 12V when the car doesnt turn over, but I was getting 12V everytime it did work

That pretty much means its not my starter right?

Im gonna have to pm you steve somehow

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GseaQ
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I have the exact same problem with the '95 Q45t. I now have an "auxiliary" start button in place for the next time it happens. If it won't crank with the key but will with the button then it's the ignition switch. If it won't crank with the button either, then it's the starter. I have a rebuilt starter still in the box but won't install it until I know the original is shot.

Sometimes it'll be perfect for weeks. It actually was delaying starter cranking a year and a half ago - engage the start position with the key and a split second later the starter would go. That resolved itself and has been perfect until a couple of months ago.

So, what did you find out with yours? Ignition switch?

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goody90q45
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Could it be the starter relay?

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GseaQ
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Mike, sorry, I should have said. I put a new one on right away - they're pretty cheap.

longhornsqx4
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Car: 2001 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5L VQ35DE

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I still havent actually narrowed this problem down, it happens almost everytime I start the car though, and it usually takes quite a few tries before it decided it wants to turn over.

I really dont know what to fix here

qship96
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Generally , thats when one seeks professional Infiniti technicians help at the local dealer.......

longhornsqx4
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I dont have an infinity dealership within 3 hours of me, closest NISSAN dealership is just over an hour away

Thats why im on nico..... and i dont trust anyone with my car either, I like doing it myself so I now what is done

Thanks for the great help though

qship96
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Wow, a WHOLE hours drive to the Nissan dealer to finally fix a serious problem that has been affecting starting your vehicle for months?????

How long does one put up with misery before it is worth an hours drive for a cure??????

When youre sick and tired of being sick and tired???????

longhornsqx4
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Well I would probably have to leave the car there, and I dont exactly have a ride there or back.

Like I said I like to do it on my own anyways, I just need help diagnosing what is wrong, based on the tests I have already done that stevethetech ask me to try

Hoping that would help me resolve this asap

longhornsqx4
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Car: 2001 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5L VQ35DE

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I am stills stumped as to the origin of this problem!!!

Anyone have any ideas how I can narrow it down or what I should just purchase to remedy this problem?


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