Starter Replacement Procedure

[Double E]

So my neighbor knows I wrench a little and I owe him big for helping out with my pets during vaca.

His daughter is about to go back to college & her starter is grinding. (second starter from auto-zone) I know...I know........Nissan re-man is the way to go. My '97 I30 (sold for the M45 in my profile) wanted a Nissan reman too and I did it right the first time ...with knowledge from these boards, however,

I had the dealer do that one, this is a different situation.

This situation is a '97 Altima automatic and I'm getting conflicting reports of what it takes to remove/replace. (I did a search here, google & yahoo) Surprisingly enough, I found the least in details here by searching with 1997, altima and starter but I'm hopeful y'all can give the basics.

(Is there a thread you know of that can assist?)

If a pre-existing thread is not readily available, thanks in advance for your help.

I need to know where it is located. I know....follow the positive batt cable, but I would rather go in with good info, like you would, ...jack this thing up and be under the correct side right away knowing what I'm looking for. And of course, what I'm up against. so...

I also need to know what it's going to take to get out. The conflicting information I'm getting is that one of the half-shafts, carrier, intake etc. and other stuff has to be removed from underneath to get out. Another poster said that it is at the front of the transmission and a connector and two easily accessible bolts later and you're done.

I'd love to tell the neighbor that we need a Haynes manual and to get a Nissan reman ....So we do it once but ....he's near broke, the car will be out of sight/mind for him for another 6 months and the starter we're changing is under warranty (free). I know the issue will prolly re-appear in 8 months but for now, I need your help....

What does it really take to do?

Thanks again for your info.... I appreciate your assistance with this

EDIT/Update: Got it done. Sort of a pain but not like a knock sensor on a VQ or it's O2 sensors...

The starter was to be changed because when it did crank, there was always a metal to metal "ding" once the engine fired. The neighbor suspected that meant the starter gear was beginning to wear. It actually sounds to me like the gear is not disengaging like it is supposed to.

Funny thing is that the new starter went in fine and it does the same thing. Oh well. If anyone knows what's the reason for the ding from the starter, I'm all ears.

Flywheel maybe? Poor reman process makes the starter not in the correct position?


Modified by Double E at 6:06 PM 1/17/2009

[DeVilleL13]

i had a reman transmission and reman starter put in back in sept. of my 95 u13 and once in a while i get that ping sound not ofter though.

my guess is the placement of the flywheel when you stop and turn off. so when you start up again it might clip it a little. i don't really know but starters die all the time for strange reasons

[Double E]

Yep...I got to thinking abou this later and realized that I might have caused the issue with the new starter...

I noticed that the old starter had some grease buildup inside the nose of the starter. It didn't seem like it had been purposely placed there but more that it was coming up from the inside of the starter. It was being replaced anyay. (It never failed to start the car, just had the ping noise with about every start.)

So I (thinking it was right to do, put a coating of synthetic bearing grease on the new stater gear as well and) installed the new one. I didn't fill the nose up but the gear and surround were coated....

Later, I realized that the grease may be what's keeping the new gear from retracting as well as it should. If so, why did the old one have any on it? Is the normal "retraction" action of the starter gear forceful enough to overcome some grease? I would think so.....but I don't really know.

[PaulD]

Is changing the starter in a 1997 similar/the same as changing one in a 1995? You access it from underneath and access the two bolts from the top of the engine by removing the air intake?

Any tricks/concerns you can share?

Pls advise.

Thx

PaulD

[Double E]

I dunno, but it's got to be pretty close.

Disconnect the battery first!

Take a few digital pictures of the "before" to document how the air box came out and what hoses are to be re-connected. The Throttle body did not need to come out for me, but if you're feeling like being thorough, get the replacement gaskets for the TB (<$5) and remove it too so it can be properly cleaned.

While the starter is being removed, I would have both electrical connections removed before loosening the starter's mounting bolts. This puts less strain on the small connector when it is loosened and provides a stationary position for the bigger connector to be loosened. Neither are easy to get to however.

The re-installation process will be made a little easier by having a person positioned above the engine and starting the bolt threads to hold the new starter in place. As the new starter is positioned in from below, it is not easy to keep in place so that the bolts can be started if there's only one person. Get the mounting bolts finger tight, then tighten them both a little at a time. Gorilla tight is not needed, just match the force it took to remove them.

Replace both electical connectors once the bolts have been started and are finger tight. (Removal and replacement of these connectors is the most time consuming and will cause the most frustration.)

I would not grease the starter gear. The instructions did not say to do so and it may actually impede the gear actuation.