Post by
nukeone »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/nukeone-u31978.html
Sat Feb 25, 2006 6:38 am
Unfortunately, I think there could be 3 possible causes: 1) the remote start signal is keeping the "start" signal energized, 2) the ignition switch itself is faulty (somehow shorted to think ON and START are the same, 3) or the ignition interlock relay is failed in the closed position. If the solenoid (magnetic switch on the starter, some people call the bendix or penion) was faulty and stuck in the energized/closed state, the starter should run all the time, even without the ignition switch being in the ON position. If you disconnect the power/start signal line to the starter solenoid (NOT the big lead from the battery to the actual starter ), you can use a test meter to see if it has constant voltage as soon as the ignition switch is in the ON position. If this power/start signal line has constant voltage while the ignition switch is in the ON position (NOT START), you have an electrical problem that is telling the solenoid to remain energized. So the cause could be any of the first 3 possibilities above.
When the solenoid is energized, it does 2 things: it closes to engage the pinion/bendix, moving the pinion/bendix forward to engage the flywheel, while simultaneously closing a relay to energize the starter motor and start the car.
As a second check, have a buddy hold the switch in the START position and see if there is a power/voltage signal. If so, the electrical side from the starter backwards to the ignition switch would appear to be working fine.
If the solenoid/magnetic switch is bad or stuck in the energized state, it will keep constant power to the actual starter, which should make the starter spin regardless of ignition switch position. The solenoid just acts like a big relay; when it is energized, it is magnetically pulled into position to move the pinion/bendix forward, engaging the flywheel, while also closing the relay contact to put power on the actual starter. If you want to test the solenoid, you can either remove the starter or simply leave the ignition in the OFF position and disconnect the battery lead to the starter. Also, disconnect the wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter (short wire on the starter, so the solenoid and the starter are electrically separated). With your test meter, look for continuity across the post that the battery feed normally attaches to and the post from the short solenoid to starter wire. Normally, this should be an "open" connection; if you have continuity, it means the solenoid and/or internal relay are stuck, which would keep the starter motor running all the time. Sorry about all the wording... does this help or is it too confusing?