start up issues

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
CrazedZ32Owner
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when i crank the car i have to hold the key forward in the crank position for a good 3-6 seconds( i dont know exactly but the car definitely takes alot longer than it should to turn over) and then itll start and it runs kinda rough..... i have changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter and cleaned the MAF..... im not too tech savy when it comes to cars but the only 2 options i can think of is the injectors and fuel pump... both dont sound too fun... are there any other area i should look into?? also if i had a miss-fire the car would be throwing a code right?? and how would i know does the check engine light come on??

EDIT: also i am experiencing slight power loss but if i let off the gas and throttle up again itll stop for a split second and bog down again


LIBRILZ
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A misfire will not throw a Check engine light. Not on the OBD1 atleast.



I'm having the same problem as you, takes about 4-6 seconds to start. Defineately too long. And once it catches it might die, then I have to do it again and when it catches it runs rough. not horrible but rough.

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evildky
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kinda sounds liek the fuel pressure regulator, as they age they don't hold fuel pressure when the car is parked for a while, especially if parked on a hill, most likley your fuel pressure is draining out when the car sits and when you crank it takes a few seconds for the fuel to pressurize the lines again

CrazedZ32Owner
Posts: 411
Joined: Fri May 28, 2010 11:59 am
Car: 91 Z32 TT(no motor), 2008 350Z Nismo, 05 Pontiac Sunfire speed machine!!! :)
Location: Lehigh Valley PA

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ok so fuel pressure regulator?? also with the issue of the car bogging down it happens right as i come out of vacum and hit boost right at 0 psi.... indication of a boost leak??

CrazedZ32Owner
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Joined: Fri May 28, 2010 11:59 am
Car: 91 Z32 TT(no motor), 2008 350Z Nismo, 05 Pontiac Sunfire speed machine!!! :)
Location: Lehigh Valley PA

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does anoyone know of a good guide to replace a fuel pressure regulator i have been googling for the past 45 minutes with no results :facepalm:

robomatic12
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Release fuel pressure by removing fuel pump relay located in the driver kickpanel. Then start car it will die within a few seconds. Now you unscrew the fuel lines connecting to fuel regulator, and put new one back in its place. Fairly simple

CrazedZ32Owner
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Joined: Fri May 28, 2010 11:59 am
Car: 91 Z32 TT(no motor), 2008 350Z Nismo, 05 Pontiac Sunfire speed machine!!! :)
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where is it located?? lol thats the issue

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evildky
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CrazedZ32Owner wrote:ok so fuel pressure regulator?? also with the issue of the car bogging down it happens right as i come out of vacum and hit boost right at 0 psi.... indication of a boost leak??
that kinda sounds lieka weak fuel pump, but how about we start with the fpr, once you have it in hand hopefully you can figure it out, if not, you might take that as an omen that you shoudl have someon else do the work

CrazedZ32Owner
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Car: 91 Z32 TT(no motor), 2008 350Z Nismo, 05 Pontiac Sunfire speed machine!!! :)
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ok but i have to wait until wednsday to do that b/c no one around here has a fpr in stock.. as for the location for the fpr is it on top of the intake plenun correct on the DS in the back??

robomatic12
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FPR is on the top of the intake plenum, just follow the fuel lines and make sure it is the one with a vacuum line going to it. If not you are looking at the fuel dampner.

CrazedZ32Owner
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ok gotcha thanks

EDIT: also had the air system smoke tested found the line for my brake booster was split.... other than that no smoke came out anywhere else :dblthumb: sounds like no boost leak to me

CrazedZ32Owner
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update i pulled the Radiator(freaking JB weld :tisk: ) and the FPR and waiting until wensday when the parts come in... when i was laying down in bed last night i got to thinking i noticed none of my vaccum lines are hooked up and the break booster line needed replacing, so could that have caused the hesitation to start??....me thinks i see the problem here... B/c when i pulled the FPR off there was still fuel in it and the diaphragm definitely isnt bad.... i hate shady mechanics :facepalm:

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evildky
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yes a vac leak (cracked booster line si a vac leak) can cause hesitation, crappy idle etc

the fpr should have fuel in it, the issue is that the seal on the inside does not shut all the way, so the fuel pressure drains out, you can hook up an inline gauge in the fuel line and see if the pressure drops when the car sits overnite

CrazedZ32Owner
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well i replaced the FPR and i had to do a radiator as well and i did not tighten the hose clamp up and the car over heated and started smoking... pulled the plugs to check for oil in the cylinders and low and behold i was shooting oil into the no. 5 cylinder... also the plugs were REALLY dirty so a set of new NGK's and the car is running fine now except for the oil. i JUST got done doing a compression test on the car, (like 5 minutes) the results are as follows:

cylinders 1,3,5: 135
cylinders 2,4,6: 125


is that bad that the even cylinders are 10psi( or w/e the measurement is) lower?? B/c i was told as long as they are within 5 or 10 psi of eachother the engine is ok

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evildky
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it's not horrible, just an old engine

the oil in #5, the question is how si the oil getting in? cam cover leaks can let oil in the plug valley and it can seem through the threads over time, could also bee valve stem seals ro worse yet a blown HG

CrazedZ32Owner
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<---- never pulled VG let alone blown a HG

well there were new rings and valve seals put in when i bought the car...and there is no oil in the valley

now if it was the HG would i need a new motor?? or do i just have to replace the gaskets(praying for needing new gaskets over motor)

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evildky
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if the engien had new rings your compression should be higher, maybe your gauge reads low

if it's the HG you simply need HG

CrazedZ32Owner
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well ill have to wait untill the 14th to have the rings and seals and HG changed. The temp gauge didnt spike all the way but there was still steam comming out of the coolant return tube i shut the car off and coasted to the gas station u think i could have cracked the heads?? it was only that hot for a few seconds i dont think the heads cracked b/c the hose wasnt hooked up and the pressure couldnt build up

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evildky
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if you are replacing rings you are rebuilding the engine

pressure isn't what damages the head, it's the heat, having the hose off does nothing to help the situation, steam coming out is a bad thing, it means there isn't enough coolant in the system which si how you crack ro warp heads

you overheated the engine, this can crack or warp the heads

CrazedZ32Owner
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well if they are cracked or warped there would be leaks noticeable underneath the car and it has sat for 2 days now and there is no evidence of any leak

robomatic12
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Not necessarily, you could have oil in your coolant or vice versa. Sometimes the combustion gas will make its way into the coolant and make the engine run very hot. The head gasket seperates those 3 things (coolant, oil, combustion chamber) so they can all mix or leak out if warped/cracked.

CrazedZ32Owner
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ok kool that made me feel a little bit better


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