start up and stalling
start up and stalling
there are a few other posts along this line, but mine seems to be different in a few ways. here is my problem.this problem developed in the past 2 weeks without warning. actually it was the next day after installing a new stright through exhaust, i still cant think of any relation betweent the two. but what happens is the car most of the time will start and rev up to around 1500rpm then stall. after a few more attempts it starts and runs smooth, wether it is cold or hot the engine does this. lately i have replaced the PCV valve, O2 sensor, cleaned the AIV, the one thing i ran into today was trying to adjust my idle down, it stays at 1000, and when it gets lower then that, the system will correct itself and increase the revs. I basically cant get the idle below 1000. I also have tried the air regulator unit, pinching the hose while the engine is running give me no drop at all, I am not sure if there is any way to test the IAA, or the AAC valve, i have a cd rom manual that is completely worthless in all its troubleshooting areas. I am not sure about vaccum leaks since the car runs perfectly at other times and i even hooked up a vaccum gauge and the readings were aroun minus 15.ANY IDEAS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!:help :help
To properly set the idle, warm the engine up first (few minutes of driving) next you need to disconnect the TPS harness. Then you set the idle to around 650rpm and after plugging the TPS harness back in the idle should rise about 50 or so rpms. If the idle raises a rediculous amount like 200rpms, then your TPS needs to be adjusted.
The ECU compensates when you change the idle, has something to do with the TPS. If you disconnect the battery for a while it should reset, or you can just wait 20 or so startups
Correct me if Im wrong!
The ECU compensates when you change the idle, has something to do with the TPS. If you disconnect the battery for a while it should reset, or you can just wait 20 or so startups
Correct me if Im wrong!
well, the tps is what tells the ECU the throttle position. when the throttle is comepletely closed it should only give a certain low voltage to the ecu, and the further you press the throttle down it raises its voltage (dont have the exact #s on hand). If its adjusted wrong it might be sending too high of a voltage and the ECU compensates, thus the higher than normal idle.
before you hook up the battery again, try leaving the harness for the tps disconnected and see how it goes. the engine will normally idle high untill its warmed up (temp gauge needle in the middle), then it should idle at 700rpm +- 50. make sure its warmed up before adjusting idle!
before you hook up the battery again, try leaving the harness for the tps disconnected and see how it goes. the engine will normally idle high untill its warmed up (temp gauge needle in the middle), then it should idle at 700rpm +- 50. make sure its warmed up before adjusting idle!
disconnecting the tps puts it in base mode (fail safe) thats the only reason for disconnecting the tps to basically take compensation (computer control out of the loop) if you pinch of the large hose coming off the main intake tube and the car dosent stall out its getting air somewhere else. try turning the idle screw all the way til it stops,dont wrench it down just turn it till it rests. if the car doesnt die pinch off the large hose and if it still doesnt die you have an air source that doesnt belong there. vaccum leak or something along those lines.
I just fixed my problem today after installing my clutch, what i found was at the battery positive terminal, there is a red connector that holds to wire plugs for you electronics, my connector, eyelit was broken. after minor alteration and filing there is now a solid connection, apon startup low and behold the idle is at 750rpm, no hesitation on startup, and the problem seems to be gone, after 4 startsin a few hours time, all is well..... hopefully it stays that way.BTW. Chingon is your MAF clean?