Stalling problems

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
tony/ka24de
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that way works well for me


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huguetpj
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Car: 93 KAT Coupe

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Red-KAT wrote:Mine stalls and I have no bov... So mine is not that... Also mine never did this befor turbo so its not my idle...

I think the MAF being to close could be the issue... Now I want to move mine out farther to see if that works...


Mine stalls whether the BOV is recirculated or not so I'm pretty sure it ain't that either. It also did not stall before the turbo but it could be a small idle issue that was agravated by the turbo system, don't think so though.

Now about the MAF.... hmmm.... maybe I'll try with some 3" hose and move the MAF as far away from the compressor as possible just to test it out. If it's that I'll remake my intake piping. But first I need to get rid of this freaking exhaust leak problems.

daniel240
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yea ive heard that its recommemded that the mafs be at least 18'' from the turbo. i know mines not even close to that, but i am very limited on space and i dont think i could move mine any farther. thats why i was considering the blow through mafs setup.

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huguetpj
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Car: 93 KAT Coupe

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I know mine is at most 10" away from the compressor. I could move it down the piping a bit maybe over the 18" suggested distance. But the 300zx MAF is in the mail so I'll probably try the hose thingy and if it works I'll make sure to put the 300zx MAF at least 18" away.

Kool240
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Car: Fishing, hunting, Racing

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daniel240 wrote:i have not tried that yet. i still want to fix it the right way though.


Hey dudes I know why your cars are dying under normal idle if you go to the trottle body of you car there is a small hose that comes off the bottom. it normally is connected to your in take. This has a small bb inside of it and is a negative pressure line when your throttle body is closed a vacumm is put on this line to let a small amount of air into the intake so the car does not choke out. Thats why some of you guys are half *** correcting it by raising the idel on the throttle body make sure that tha tubing is in the intake perferably before boost if possable. so it get the right amount of negative pressure at idle................. Then take it for a run and it should correct its self.......... Good luck....... :D

daniel240
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Kool240 wrote:Hey dudes I know why your cars are dying under normal idle if you go to the trottle body of you car there is a small hose that comes off the bottom. it normally is connected to your in take. This has a small bb inside of it and is a negative pressure line when your throttle body is closed a vacumm is put on this line to let a small amount of air into the intake so the car does not choke out. Thats why some of you guys are half *** correcting it by raising the idel on the throttle body make sure that tha tubing is in the intake perferably before boost if possable. so it get the right amount of negative pressure at idle................. Then take it for a run and it should correct its self.......... Good luck....... :D


ive always wondered about that small hose. you are talking about the smallest hose right? it comes out from somewhere under the TB and a little to the left if you looking at it from the front. i have had this plugged, and i have also tried running it into my ic piping. so your saying to run this to the intake before the turbo? or could i just leave it open. i was just worried that i would get boost leak out of that hose because i didnt know what it went to. but thanks man. wow, i will be so happy if this fixes the problem.

Kool240
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Car: Fishing, hunting, Racing

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Man if you pluged it thats your problem. and remember it has to have negative intake pressure at idle so just leaving it unpluged is not going to fix it you have to run it into the intake.....

nismo1003
Posts: 372
Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 12:51 pm
Car: Ka24de

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I plug that to the charged pipe, if u unplug it , your car shoudl be fine in idle, and it does vaccum when it is under idle.

Kool240
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nismo1003 wrote:I plug that to the charged pipe, if u unplug it , your car shoudl be fine in idle, and it does vaccum when it is under idle.


This tube is what the intake uses to breath while the throttlebody is closed. you need to put it back into the intake so it gets clean filtered air it also need negative pressure to open and close........ if you put it in your mouth and blow you can here click and closed and if you suck on it it clicks and opens trust me it will run better if its back in the intake..... and like I said perferably before boost.

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Red-KAT
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Car: 1995 240sx-se ka24det
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I already have this plugged in befor my turbo... after the maf... right where the Greddy kit puts it...

And I still have this issue.

Has anyone moved the MAF at least 18+ inch away from the turbo? I might go grab some PVC and duct-tape and try this tonight...

doctorj240
Posts: 437
Joined: Sat Aug 31, 2002 2:55 pm
Car: Black s14 w/ redtop

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Tell me what happens. When my car is back running I'd like to get this stupid problem fixed.

daniel240
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well i tried it today and it didnt fix the problem. i think it may have helped it though. i took it up to about 3k and shifted to N and it didnt stall or drop below normal idle. but i took it up to 4 or 5k in 2nd and 3rd gear and shifted to N and the rpm's droped below 500 and i quickly gave it some gas. i dont know if it helped or not because i havent driven it much but i think it did. but it did not fix the problem completely. i connected the small hose into the larger crankcase breather hose right before the intake with a connector. this was easier than drilling a hole in my intake. this would be the same as having it into the intake wouldnt it?

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C-Kwik
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On mine, I have that little tube plugged and it idles perfect. Keep in mind idle is controlled by the idle air controller(IAC). I'd still suspect a boost leak since it seems to be dying only after coming off of higher RPM's.

daniel240
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hey redkat, have you tried moving your mafs farther away from the turbo?

Kool240
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daniel240 wrote:well i tried it today and it didnt fix the problem. i think it may have helped it though. i took it up to about 3k and shifted to N and it didnt stall or drop below normal idle. but i took it up to 4 or 5k in 2nd and 3rd gear and shifted to N and the rpm's droped below 500 and i quickly gave it some gas. i dont know if it helped or not because i havent driven it much but i think it did. but it did not fix the problem completely. i connected the small hose into the larger crankcase breather hose right before the intake with a connector. this was easier than drilling a hole in my intake. this would be the same as having it into the intake wouldnt it?


Know you need to adjust your idle control valve to get it just right because i'm sure you have made all kinds ofd adjustments in th passed trying to figgure out the problem....F.Y.I I'm talking about the one on the back of the manifold not the one by the throttle body counter clockwise is more idle clockwise is less.....:)

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Red-KAT
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daniel240 wrote:hey redkat, have you tried moving your mafs farther away from the turbo?


Nope... I will try and do it soon.

To tired so far this weak. :) Lots of work.

daniel240
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Kool240, i have only adjusted the idle cont. behind the manifold. and none of the others. all that does is control the idle speed corect? right now i have it idling slightly above 1000rpm. i dont see why it would matter if i move it back to normal idle.

tony/ka24de
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Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2003 1:10 pm

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what is the other bigger air hose that is right beside the tb, my little hose goes right after the mafs and if still does it. (stalls)

daniel240
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i forget what its called. you need to have that going back into your IC piping or it will leak boost out of that hose.

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huguetpj
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Car: 93 KAT Coupe

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tony/ka24de wrote:what is the other bigger air hose that is right beside the tb


maybe you are refering to the idle solenoid hose. This is the hose that is connected to the idle solenoids to bypass the TB.

daniel240
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well i fixed my stalling problem.. i think. i converted to a blow-through type mafs. and that seemed to fix it. the rpms never droped below 1000 while i drove it today. (my idle is set a little over 1000) i guess the recirculated bov air wasnt all getting back into the engine. but now im having problems with my mafs. i think i have a bad connection at the plug. today my car started running like sh*t and barely going past 2k rpm. i pulled over and wiggled the wires and plug on teh mafs and it started running better. i guess i have to find a new mafs plug.

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C-Kwik
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Make sure it's the connection and not the wires. You might try unraveling the harness to see if there is an open circuit anywhere.

daniel240
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yea i already did that, im pretty sure its right at the plug.

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WDRacing
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Good deal Dan, glad your car is finally...well almost, finally running decent and not stalling. I'm doing the same thing myself, blow thru seems to be the best way with some type of Idle air stabilization. Maybe I'll just buy the HKS AFR.

WD


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